Brakes

[calipanda]

Hey fellas,

I completed the removal of the fairing, so now my V is naked as its nameday. However, I have a couple of questions regarding brakes:

1) how do I increase the resistance on the front brake lever? I had to disconnect the brake cable during my fairing removal, and once I put it back in it seems like a lot of the tension was lost.

2) a few weeks ago, my bike dropped (I slipped in a water slick, but I was stopped so I wasn't injured or anything) on the right side, and it pushed my rear brake pedal into the bike. I thought the pedal got deformed and so I went about looking for a new pedal. However, both pedals (old and newer) do not align properly with my pegs. I had to set my pedal below the engine so I could use it somewhat. It is very uncomfortable. Is there any possibility that the bar that holds the brake pedal got pushed in? I tried pulling at it but I didn't want to pull too hard and it didn't seem to make any difference. Any suggestions?

[Jimustanguitar]

The front brake is hydraulic, so anytime you disconnect that line you'll have to bleed the system to get the air out. Since air compresses and hydraulic fluid does not, a little bit of air will make your nice firm brakes start to get squishy. As air expands with higher temperatures, your brakes will become more and more soggy. It's a big safety issue. There's no point in going if you can't stop, right?

The process sounds worse than it really is. Essentially you loosen the bleeder on the brake caliper (it looks like a grease zirk) and squeeze the brake lever to squirt out some fluid. Then you re-tighten the bleeder BEFORE you release the lever (so that it doesn't suck air back into the caliper). Use a piece of aquarium tubing to route the spent brake fluid into a suitable container, if it's clear you can also watch for bubbles. Do this over and over again until you get crystal clear brake fluid coming out of the bleeder and don't see any more bubbles. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the reservoir too, if you let it run dry you're just introducing more bubbles and you'll have to start over.

Do not reuse brake fluid! It is hydrophilic and will take on moisture. As this moisture heats up from using the brakes, water can boil into steam and cause the same problems as air, not to mention corrosion.

Some bikes have bleeders with check valves so that you don't have to do the constant tightening and loosening to keep air from entering the caliper. Those are called "speed bleeders" and they're worth the money in my opinion. There are also brake bleeder kits available that have a "catch cup" with an anti-siphon configuration that doesn't let air re-enter the line. You can also use a vacuum pump to draw fresh fluid through the system from the caliper (pulling it from below instead of pumping it from above).

However you do it, the main thing to be sure of is that there are no bubbles and you don't run the reservoir dry.

Good luck! Let me know if I've described anything poorly. There are probably also a lot of instructables.com and youtube videos on the matter, check it out!

[Rick G]

As to your rear brake pedal, it is actually fairly easy to straighten it. You will need  something like a 6 foot piece of 3/4 water or gas pipe . Use several hose clamps to attach it to the  arm  and get some help to hold the bike  as well as pull on the pipe . It will gradually be pulled out to the position it was in. The pivot pin may be bent , but its not a common occurance . If so I probably have one. You can determine if its bent by removing it and observing it  It should be straight.

[calipanda]

Thanks Rick and Jim, I will update this thread once I have made the repairs.

[Jimustanguitar]

Any luck? I hope so!

[calipanda]

Hey Jim, haven't gotten a chance to work on my bike..I was out of town visiting some family this weekend. I'm hoping to get some time sometime this week, otherwise I gotta wait for the weekend :-\

[calipanda]

Hey Rick,

could you please post a pic of the pivot pin? I am not sure what it should look like. Also for the rear brake, are there brake pads that I would need to replace? This weekend I am going to work on my front and rear brakes as well as spark plugs. What is the proper gap for Vision plugs? Thanks in advance!

[Lucky]

There is a spring (2 actually) behind the peg plate that helps hold the pedal in the up position. Make sure it didn't become dislodged in the tip over. The other spring is for the brake light switch.


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[Rick G]

The rear brake has shoes, not pads. The pivot pin for the brae pedal is what holds it or Just remove it and sight along its length . It should be straight. I'll see it I can get a pic. 
NGK spark plugs come pre-gapped, just install them.

[calipanda]

Ok I took the peg plate off and the springs are completely fucked (excuse my french). I got replacement springs but for the life of my I cannot figure out where I anchor the tension spring (not the brake light spring). There seems to be a spot on the peg plate but I am not sure if that's where I connect the spring to. And isnt the pivot pin attached the the lever connected to the rear brake?

Also, if you guys wouldn't mind, could you send me a link for the type/brand of brake pads and shoes (for front and rear) that you guys prefer to use? I like to use items recommended by others, especially when it comes to my Vision :) you guys are great and awesome and I trust your judgments :)

[Re-Vision]

Hope this helps.     BDC

[Jimustanguitar]

The tension spring attaches to a little peg on the back of the aluminum bracket.
The brake light switch mounts through a bracket on the steel frame near the wheel well.
The long threaded rod that goes to the rear brake lever attaches to a swiveling piece on the brake pivot.
The brace bar bolts between the dog-ear on the bottom of the brake shoe plate and the swing-arm. **New bolts should be used**

That all happens behind the aluminum bracket. The foot lever for the brake goes on last and holds it all together, and there's an adjustable stop screw on this lever that contacts your footpeg.

I think that's all the parts :) I Have used the Versah (or something like that) brake pads before, but don't have anything to compare them to, so I can't recommend for or against them. Didn't have any problems though.

[calipanda]

Hope this helps.     BDC

Thats EXACTLY what I needed.. Thanks RV! And Thanks Jim!

Is it possible to change the brace bar bolts without removing the rear wheel?

[Jimustanguitar]

You certainly can replace the brace bar bolts while the wheel is on. The front one is not the easiest to reach, but you shouldn't have a problem with it.

[calipanda]

Ok, I still cannot get this to work..How can I adjust the tension of the brake pedal? I have to push it WAAAAYYY down before it engages the brake. Wassup with that?

[jefferson]

If you took the arm off the splined shaft on the backing plate it may need to be moved back a notch. I believe the shaft has a notch where the gap in the arm is supposed to locate.

Jeff

[fret not]

Are we to assume the brake shoes are in good condition?  No missing linings etc.?