Stator Replacements (was Diagnostic help please)

Started by pinholenz, October 29, 2012, 04:20:27 PM

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pinholenz

I have figured that  my a starting turnover problems when hot was caused by a low battery/low charging rate. Under load with the lights on it was only producing 12.8v at 3k revs. When the battery rested for 5-10 minutes it recovers enough to turn the engine OK.

Reading the "stator failure"post, and running on a shoestring at the bottom of the world, convinces me I had better start collecting G7 stators from other bikes. So far the donor list is as follows:

Honda  VLX400 Shadow, VT400C Shadow, VT500C Shadow, VT500E/FT, VLX600 Shadow, VT600C Shadow, XL600V Transalp, NX650 Dominator, XRV750 Africa Twin
Suzuki  VS600/700/750/800 Intruder
Yamaha  XZ550, SZR660, XV700, TDM850, XV1000 Virago, XV1100 Virago
BMW F650
MUZ 600 Scorpion

1. Are there others to add or take away from this list?

2. The local Yamaha agent says he used to lay the XZ550 on its side to remove the cover and  replace the stator. This meant he didn't have to change the oil each time and was especially good for roadside stator replacement. Is this a trick others have used or is it an urban myth?

3. When I have got the cover off (first time for me) I understand that I need to check the starter clutch bolts and peen them. I don't know what I will be looking at here. Has anyone got some pics of what needs to be checked and peened?

4. The G7 Stator has the dimensions 115/54/18. Kyle at Electrosport recommended their  ESG730, but later suggested that the ESG070 would be best. What Electrosport Stator models are others using? Can other widths, 17mm, 21mm or 24mm stators be used?

Thanks
Only one '82.5  eXtreme Zen 550

Rick G

Never laid one on it side, but it would be a good idea if you were doing a field replacement , sans shop!
Rick G
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there in lurks the skid demon
'82.5 Yamaha XZ550 RJ  Vision,
'90 Suzuki VX800, 1990 Suzuki DR350.
'74  XL350   Honda , 77 XL350 Honda, 78 XL350 Honda, '82 XT 200 Yamaha, '67 Yamaha YG1TK, 80cc trail bike

fret not

Yeah, I changed the clutch on a Honda 750 by leaning it over so the oil didn't run out.  It works, just don't get any dirt in there.
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

QBS

If you don't have a Haynes manual, definitely get one before you go into this.  Re paring the starter clutch while you're inside is excellent strategy.  However, it requires either prior experience or the Haynes manual.  Otherwise, serious stress may lie ahead.

cvincer

On its side you'll have to deal with the mirror to prevent damage + remove the tank to prevent petrol spill (unless the tank is nearly empty) + if the old gasket has to me scrapped off some of it is bound to fall into the engine.   If you have to remove the flywheel ...well it can be a bitch, which will only be made harder with the bike on its side.   If you don't finish the job that day or find more problems, you can't move the bike, but if the bike had been on the center stand, you can just push it into a corner out of the way.

My advice, put the bike on the center stand,  spend $7/8 on new oil.

The Prophet of Doom

#2 It can be done, but the bike doesn't go right over, just on a lean enough to clear the oil away from the side case.  Further and you will spill fuel, battery acid, transmission, coolant

Just use a clean container and then pour it back in afterwards - That's a lot quicker and easier

#3 Plenty of pics on here - do a search. Also detailed in the Yamaha factory manual page 47-48 .   The starter clutch is just behind the flywheel attached by 3 bolts - they are the ones that get loose. You will need a puller - it can't be done without.   
Use red loctite AND peening.  Check the 46mm nut while you are in there- they tend to looseness also - see the bottom of pg 48

pinholenz

Thanks Gents, good advice. I will go hunting for pics and root through the manual - I hadn't realised that the peening (or should that be peining?) was a Yamaha fix.

I used to know a guy who had a sideline of replacing subframes in BMC Mini's. He used to take the mirrors off, lay a mattress down and roll the car on to its side to do the work. But I think I will stick to dropping the oil in the XZ unless its a roadside repair. Good to know though.
Only one '82.5  eXtreme Zen 550

Rikugun

Quote1. Are there others to add or take away from this list?

The VT/VLX600 stator won't fit the Vision.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

admin



I also just did a stator recently without draining the oil, real simple I built a bracket to lean it over onto so it wouldn't
damage anything, worked perfectly.   I'd stay away from the large virago stators they are a bit too big,  although
someone suggested that it might work,  I didn't have the guts to do it.
I have one from an 84 XV1000 that I'd sell for 45 ( what I paid ) if you want to give it a try.


-Ron

George R. Young

For a while, I carried a spare stator on longer trips. The idea was I could lean the bike up against a tree in a campground and not have to drain the oil.

Never actually tried this, once I started carrying a spare, the internal one didn't fail.

QBS

At last!,...the long sought secret to V stator reliabilty is revealed.  So simple, and well worth the $.

Rikugun

It's good to know it can be done in the field without losing oil.  However, given how crunchy and burnt some stators look at replacement time  :( maybe it's good to change the oil anyway.

If at home, maybe save the oil to a clean container. After assembly refill and check the stator output when the engine warms up. Then drain and refill with new and a filter.  :)
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan