Last Chance!

Started by geolin, May 16, 2002, 05:34:21 PM

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geolin

Hey,

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get my Vision to start after it is warm? I've tried; testing the electrical (it passed,) replacing the petcock, adjusting the carburetor, replacing a broken hose to the VICS, checked the fuses, etc.

I'm out of ideas, if anyone has any last suggestions before I wheel it into the lake, I would appreciate it.

George

ArrrGeee

More info would be helpful...
if the engine is turning over fast enough
then my guess would be that the fuel is percolating into the engine.
this would give you a flooded condition.
The best way to clear a flooded condition is to hold the throttle wide
open while you crank it. (make sure the choke is off)

again, that is assuming there is plenty of spark and the engine is
spinning over ok.

hope this helps

-Ron


QuoteHey,

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get my Vision to start after it is warm? I've tried; testing the electrical (it passed,) replacing the petcock, adjusting the carburetor, replacing a broken hose to the VICS, checked the fuses, etc.

I'm out of ideas, if anyone has any last suggestions before I wheel it into the lake, I would appreciate it.

George

Jeff

First what kind of plugs are you running?  I had the same problem and fixed it with platinum plugs that are just alittle hotter than stock.  Seems the colder plugs foul very easy and if your battery isn't topped off, it won't fire.
 Just an idea.....
Jeff

Rick_Laffer

ALWAYS listen to Ron!
I'm curious too,...is the starter turning the engine over as fast as it does when cold, or does it seem a bit like a flat battery (although not flat)?
How long after the engine is hot, then turned off do you have to wait before it starts easily, and where is the temp gauge at this time?


George Milligan

Thanks for replying,

It turns over just as fast when it is warm as it does when it is cold. After it has heated up past the halfway mark between hot and cold it won?t start; I have to wait until it completely cools, and then it starts right up. I have the tank off now, and I?m trying to find something obvious in the carburetors, nothing yet, except that I noticed that there are signs of gas overflowing from the air box. That cant be good.  I haven?t taken the plugs out to check that yet, I have to get an extension for the socket to get those buggers out!  

Please fill me in on any more ideas,
Thanks,
George Milligan
geolin@peak.org
 ???

QQBS

Check your float levels as per the Haynes Manual method.  Reset them if they are set too high.  Also consider leakey float needle valves and/or damaged needle valve O rings.  Does the bike leak fuel when not running with the petcock in prime position?.  The carb tops can be removed for servicing/inspection while leaving the carb bodies on the bike.  If you want to remove the needle valve assemblies review a Haynes manual for the correct procedure.  Be extreamly carefull when taking out the float pivot pin.  It is very easy to break off a pivot pin pedistal.  If that happens consider JB Weld for a fix.

My '83 was recently showing what appeared to be leakey needle valves.  Replacement parts were almost $100.00USD.  It turns out that the problem was damaged needle valve O rings. Cost less than $5.00USD.

Once again, it is good to win.  Cheers.