Feels like a flat/rear end kind of slides

[davidpope]

Rode the bike around yesterday and it started acting funny. Got on it again today and its doing the same thing. I ride for about 2 minutes and it starts to feel like one of the tires is going flat. Ass end feels like its not wanting to spin and when I go to slow down it feels like its sliding to the side. I have 35psi in the front and 39psi in the rear after testing. Both tires have a 41psi max rating. If I put it on the center stand both wheels appear to be spinning freely. I'm kind of scratching my head and would love some ideas.

[Brian Moffet]

Grab the rear wheel and see if you can shift it from side to side or twist it.  Same with the front.  The only motion you should be able to feel  other than the wheel is totaing is in line with the forks in the front and up and down at the rear.  You can also have someone follow you and see if they can see anything.  A video camera might be helpful.

What speed?

[davidpope]

I'll check for wheel momement when I get off of work. So far it has been at low speeds, have not exceeded 35mph since I have noticed it. It just kind of gives me a creepy unsafe feeling.

[QBS]

TP should be in the 32-34psi range.  Also, with the bike on center stand, somehow get the front wheel off the ground and check the steering head bearings for ease of movement.  Handle bars should move through their lock to lock travel smoothly, with no resistance at all.  If you have resistance, what you may be experiencing is oversteer.

[Brian Moffet]

oversteer.

I thought oversteer was when the car tended to turn in a tighter radius than would normally be proscribed by the wheels.  Usually the difference between oversteer and understeer occurs more when the speed increases.  I only have come across under and over-steer with cars though.

You're thinking of a hysteresis in the steering (there is no center point that the front wheel can find while travelling, so it tends to oscillate in a range)?

Brian

[Night Vision]

agree... tire pressure is on high side..

did you install tapered steering head bearings? are your steering bearings too tight?...

she'll wallow if they are

[davidpope]

Rear wheel does not appear to move from side to side without shaking the entire bike.If I spin the wheel towards me it kind of makes a noise like a chain going over gears if that makes since. Spin away from me and no noise. I'll have to get someone to sit on the end of the bike with it on the center stand to check for play in the front wheel tommorrow morning. I have not done the steering head bearings yet and imagine they are original. Bike has been operating pretty decent and this only started recently. Should I let some of the air out of each tire? Could over inflation cause this feeling and action? The rear brake is mechanical correct? So I shouldnt have to worry about something not releasing when I apply rear brake or something of that nature being the problem right?

[YellowJacket!]

While you are back there looking around...make sure your brake bar bolts are new/replaced.  (see the sticlkie thread about all the bad things that can happen if they fail.
The rear brakes are mechanical.

David

[Tiger]

 :) Make sure that your rear brake has a return spring :o If not, this can cause drag on the rear brake!! Also, make sure that you have no drag on the front brake caliper after running for a few miles...

Steering head bearing check.

Without another body, put a jack under the front of the engine and lift just enough for the front wheel to clear the floor. Turn the handlebars, slooooooow, from one side to the other and back again. Do it a couple of times...This should be a smoooooth process!!

                   8).......TIGER....... 8)

[davidpope]

Placed a jack under the front engine and jacked it up. If I spin the front wheel it makes a little more then 1 rotation and it kind of sounds like a mild metal to metal sound. Like maybe my pads are dragging on my rotor a little? Could I have installed somrthing wrong when I did the brakes?

When I move the wheel from side to side it does not feel or appear to be binding up. Feels smooth and moves freely.

The rear wheel makes a noise when I spin it? Is this normal?

I took a picture of the rear wheel assembly. Looking at the bike from the rear, the right side is where the spring return you are refrencing correct? Brake seems to be working fine and releasing good. There is a small gap between the outside hub and the bracket that goes down to hold the retainer spring. I think you can see what I mean in the pictures. Is it supposed to be there?

Also the two bolts that I am supposed to check and replace as per the stickey thread. All the images are backed out. Can someone snap a pick or point me where. All the bolts I can see look good. The only bolt I have had to change is the one that is on the swing arm to the rear axle. Also should there be a cotter pin or something going through the axle. There is nothing there but I see the empty hole.

[Brian Moffet]

It's hidden by the brake bar in your bottom photo, but the one you want to check is here, and where the other end of the bar connects:

[The Prophet of Doom]

oversteer.

You're thinking of a hysteresis in the steering (there is no center point that the front wheel can find while travelling, so it tends to oscillate in a range)?

Brian

There appears to be some disagreement whether the word hysteresis comes from the greek hystera (womb) or hysteros (late).  The way my V acts like a woman, I favour the former

[joevacc]

David,

It looks like the right swing arm is broken right in two!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  The first picture shows it toward the front of the swing arm.
I hope I am looking at something incorrectly here but if not - DO NOT RIDE THAT BIKE!

Looks like you need a new swing arm bro.   >:( :'(

[xswheels]

Naw, that's an illusion. it does appear broken, but that is where the round swing arm tubing is welded to a triangular brace of the swing arm. I will say this though davidpope, you gotta take an angle grinder to that rust, before something breaks.

[Walt_M.]

I noticed there are a LOT of threads showing on your rear brake adjuster, suspect your brake shoes are worn out. Have you had the rear wheel off? Checked the rear end gear lube?

[davidpope]

Getting the rust off the rear section is on my list, just seems to end up on the back burner alot. The rear wheel was off a month or so ago when I had some exhaust gaskets into the Y pipe replaced. Not sure on the shoes being worn out or not. Seems to function well but honestly this is my first bike and I dont have anything to compare it to. I drained and refilled the rear end fluid back in late October. I have never seen a leak or a puddle but I guess it would be smart to check it anyway.

When it comes to tires should I be keeping them at 32-34 like indicated in a past post? What is the difference between what the bike recomends and the tires say? Not really sure on the difference to be honest.

[QBS]

I think jovacc is right.  With bike on side stand, immediately inspect the right forward end of the swing arm, where it is welded to the triangular brace, for the ability to be moved.  If it can be moved, then the weld is broken and the bike can not, under any circumstances, be safely ridden.  Give us a report after your inspection.

The tire pressure printed on the tire sidewall is the tire mfgers. maximum recommended pressure.  It is not the correct tire pressure for a specific application.  The specific application pressure depends on the load the tire will be carrying.  Different bikes and their passenger and cargo represent different tire loads.  Therefore, the tire pressure that is correct for one bike may not be correct for another, even though the same tire is installed on each bike.

[Tiger]

 :) There are two springs in that area A - rear brake light switch spring & B - A rear brake pedal return spring...I only see one!!

There should be a cotter pin through the castle nut and rear wheel axle located on the left side of the rear wheel hub :o

You should remove the rear wheel. This will allow you to check the following:

1 - The area for concern in your first picture...what xswheels called an illusion, (I think he is right), but best to check it out any way!!!

2 - Change the two brake bar bolts. I'm betting that they have never been changed out!!! and they need to be... :o These are still available at most Yamaha dealers.

3 - Check the condition of the brake shoes...a can of brake & parts cleaner ($3 to $4.00 at WalMart) will clean off all the brake dust and crap from the shoes, adjoining area's & the brake drum. Run some sandpaper over the brake shoes to remove the glazing.

4 - Where the rear wheel joins the rear drive, it is a splined area. Clean off ALL the dirt/dust, etc, from the rear drive hub & the left side of the rear wheel. Once cleaned, apply some grease to the splines...It may be that these splines are dry and will therefore give off more noise than normal ;)

5 - Clean off ALL the rust from the rear axle, inspect, lightly grease...

6 - When you reassemble, remember to insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut/rear axle...

7 - Remember to install a new pinch bolt on the rear swing arm that holds the rear axle tight (right side).

                  8).......TIGER....... 8)
                 

[Rick G]

I'll bet you a dollar to a donut that the swing arm is broken. My take on the view in that pic is that we are able to look inside the swing arm. I'm going out side and take a look at the frame next to the shed  and report back.
After my look at the frame and rereading your description of the problem ,  I'm convinced  that your swing arm is broken . Take a pic of the area, from the right side of the bike , adjacent to the swing arm gusset.    I'd like to see it in detail.

[The Prophet of Doom]

That gap is not an illusion, it's exactly how it should be.  The part that goes left-right wraps around the arms and is welded top and bottom, but not all the way around.  The part that we see in this photo is identical on mine, except without quite so much rust. ;)