Stator part 2: the WRECKONING!

[inanecathode]

Not if its synthetic and non metallic, which is the only kind you'll be able to find for that heat range. It's not nearly as ductile as metal on metal.

[Kid Jedi]

Ok i am almost done rewinding my stator, I cut some high temp motor winding board to cover the top and sides of each post. I think it is some kind of fiber impregnated plastic. I am not sure who makes it but the guy says it is rated to about 400c so that covers both the heat theory and the vibration.  Inane made some points that I cant ignore so I think I will cover both bases.  but it is gonna be time to put a outer coating over this thing soon and I was wondering what you guys think would be a good idea. something flexible, of say a durometer of about 60-A?

[funkamongus]

Do you have pics of this process or are you thinking of offering services after yours succeeds??

[inanecathode]

Ok i am almost done rewinding my stator, I cut some high temp motor winding board to cover the top and sides of each post. I think it is some kind of fiber impregnated plastic. I am not sure who makes it but the guy says it is rated to about 400c so that covers both the heat theory and the vibration.  Inane made some points that I cant ignore so I think I will cover both bases.  but it is gonna be time to put a outer coating over this thing soon and I was wondering what you guys think would be a good idea. something flexible, of say a durometer of about 60-A?

DUDE!
Brain wave, soak the whole damn thing (leave room for rotating parts, mounting holes, and the mating surface to the case (for cooling)) in red rtv. It'll capture the wires, not let them touch AND absorb vibration all at the same time!

I'm totally serious tho, if you don't do it i think i'll try that if/when my stator takes an epic shit <_<

[supervision]

 One of the draw backs of the current charging system is the speed it runs. The dia of the rotor is bigger than the stator. If the rotor was on the inside and the stator outside of it, it would lack the ability to make as much heat.  Not to mention, the rotor couldn't act as a heat trap, and thus the stator would be cooler

[supervision]

 like this

[Kid Jedi]

Red RTV? I mean of all the stuff... there has to be a better epoxy for this than rtv. dont get me wrong you are on the right track, but i want RTV's bass ass grandma!

[inanecathode]

Well, buy a ticket to my logic train here; You dont want rigid, you dont want hard. You're not dropping the stator off of a cliff, you're theoretically trying to dampen vibrations and keep things separated and happily living together as they vibrate/expand/contract. Rigid stuff (ie epoxy) does nothing to dampen vibrations (other than mass dampening but lets not go there) so any harmonics you might get in the stator core will just reverberate around until something else sucks them up (think of the stator poles as tuning fork legs). Other than its dampening properties, another really good reason i would stay away from rigid sealant/adhesive is its almost never flexible. If in fact there's major expansion in the stator windings, anything rigid enough to last through world war three as you're thinking of either wouldn't yield at all, or would just crack/chip/be damaged otherwise. Even if there was space enough for stuff to expand, it has no way of pushing the coils back to where they should be so you'd have your windings basically bouncing around inside a hollow space anyway.

[Kid Jedi]

Ok has ANYONE tried to use RTV in this manner.. and lived?

The best thing I can find is ~85 bucks a pint. (durapot 868 form coletronics) and i am not sure it is worth 85 bucks when rtv is up the street....

[Kid Jedi]

DO NOT USE RED RTV ON ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS! as Red RTV cures it releases Acetic acid. which will corrode copper and dissolve insulation. Use the ultra copper RTV! As it cures it releases  Butanone Oxime which will not harm electrical components.

I was looking over the data sheets on red rtv and noticed acetic acid on the list and called permatex to be sure.



(I loves my chemistry!)

[funkamongus]

  (I loves my chemistry!)

Evidently!!

Im pulling for ya, Kid!!!! Good luck!!

[Kid Jedi]

Stator update:

first I made some notes on how the stator is constructed, 27 loops per post, all post are wired CCW, with the screw down the phases rotate CW around the armature.  if screw is at 9 O'clock start at 12 O'clock.

Next remove all of the old windings and coil them neatly.

oh well. Damn those wires are fried.

Here is the bare stator. The pic does not show it, but each of the windings shorted in the same way, to the "armpit" of each post of the stator.


Here is a detail shot of how I folded the paper to cover the armpit of each post


Here is the stator 1/2 way armored.


Here is the stator after I added the second piece to cover the ends of each stator post.


I used one paper over, then one around.  for kicks and giggles I took a spare scrap of the paper to a piece of 120 grit sandpaper, the sandpaper had almost no effect. its really tough stuff. I used a small amount of super glue to hold the paper in place.

More pics when I finish winding this little bastard...

[inanecathode]

What was the length of wire you removed from each phase?

(i was talking about the ultra copper rtv btw, it's the only kind that can handle heat :P)

[Kid Jedi]

Each phase is about 337 inches

[funkamongus]

looking good!!

[Kid Jedi]

Just finished winding. 486 loops. Tomorrow I seal her up with copper rtv...



I did it in 6 hours, single sitting.
my hands.. so sore....

[h2olawyer]

OOH - that's purdy!  Nice work.

I've been tempted to wind my own, too - but I was afraid I'd still get 1000 miles between stator replacements and it just seems like too much bother for the short stator life I've been experiencing over the last few years.  Might try winding one to keep as a spare, though.

H₂O

[funkamongus]

wow,, looks like a lot of work, but you got it!!

[Rick G]

Yum, whats for dinner ? Stator!

[Kid Jedi]

Stator! the other burnt meat!