My New Vision

[Kojo]

Is this a part that needs to be replaced or is it an easy fix? My guess it needs replacement, and it is a rare part to find. Also: Rick, Monday might work better, have to update you on that one, I can send you a PM with my address, etc...

[Rick G]

David , the  turn signal flasher  works in conjunction with the signal from the speedo. I haven't found a automotive one that will work on the Vision , maybe some one else has? It has a different configuration than the average one.

[YellowJacket!]

David , the  turn signal flasher  works in conjunction with the signal from the speedo. I haven't found a automotive one that will work on the Vision , maybe some one else has? It has a different configuration than the average one.

"David" or Kojo...or is Kojo a David too?

David

[Rick G]

Actually I misaddressed that one !  Kojo is a kyle.

[Kojo]

Ok here's the latest new problem!

I got it up and running today, I admit I was a little nervous. It went as expected, really. Vroom vroom, nice and loud, proud to be alive. Then, I decreased the choke to get it to idle below 4k rpm, it went to 3k rpm, no trouble.. The as soon as it got below 2.5k rpm, sputter sputter cough cough. It's not idling down where it should be? What's the problem? I think it might be idle adjustment.

Also, just sitting there it runs HOT!!! It might be that I don't have proper coolant in it yet, don't want to waste the stuff in case I have to drain it though. It's spendy...

I am itchin' to ride it! Well, you guys got any ideas? What could be the problem with the idle?

[YellowJacket!]

How hot is HOT?  Into the red or just kissing the red?  Its notmal for it to get hot when it is not moving and it will just barely kiss the red zone.  Your fan should come on when it does get to the red.

As far as the idle goes, is your YICS box connected or plugged off?

More than likely the problem is still dirty carbs.  It usually requires several cleanings to get them good.

David

[Kojo]

Well, the YICS box is connected. The carbs had a cleaning throughout the nooks and crannies. And I think it might be the carb boots at fault. When I started it up, some gas vapor was seen escaping through a crack. I'm gonna try repairing this with some automobile silicon sealer stuff. Gorilla snot. I adjusted the idle a bit, it now can hang around 1.5k or so, with a bit of stutter. As soon as I get passed 3k rpm the problem is gone. I'm going to change the oil, coolant, and seal the boots.

And running HOT just meant hot to the touch. Not in the red at all. But that does explain why the fan never kicked on. But thanks for the tips. I might do what Rick G. did with his YICS, and use a bearing and a hose clamp to cut that off it it turns out to be the problem.

QUICK UPDATE!

I just rode it up the hill, and after 3rd gear, it gave me little guff, save for a slight hesitation. Coming back down the hill (THANK GOD DOWN THE HILL) it started acting like there was not enough gas, giving me the forward and backwards huh-uh-uh-uh-huh I'm running out of gas dance. I switched it over to reserve, while still moving, and to my dismay, it continued giving me this reaction. When I came to a stop, I noticed the lights were all dark. it would not start, no turn signals, nothing. I rode it downhill back home, and here I am, stumped. The battery is near full charged, so I don't know. I'm going to check the fuses if they've blown. I'm hoping it's something simple.

Update of the update:

Checked the fuses. The main fuse is getting power, but the three other fuses are not getting power. Nothing is blown though. One's a bit corroded. I took a look at the electrical schematics in the manual. I think it might be something like the kickstand kill switch or another universal kill switch. Whatever it is is not allowing power from the main fuse to the other fuses. Strange...

[Kiwi]

I'd replace the fuse block as well.  I had trouble finding fuses that are the same size as the original.
A quick trip to pep boys and less than $10 later and it is one less possible problem.

[Kojo]

Fortunately it looks like there are four extra fuses (Dunno if they're any good or even the right ones) inside the fuse box. It's too dark to be going through the electronics right now, but I'm going to check the kickstand kill switch tomorrow. I don't know what else would restrict the power from the main fuse the other ones though, besides bad wiring.

I'll look at the wiring diagrams again before I hit the sack. But if it is the fuses, an upgrade to the newer "blade" fuses might be in order.

[Rick G]

The safe thing to do with those old Yamaha fuse boxes is to chuck it and  go to the auto parts store and get a new one . Take your pick glass tube type of blade type. All old Yamahas have fuse boxes that are falling apart and are unreliable.

[Kojo]

This fuse box is in pretty good shape, as you saw, but I do see in the near future changing it over.

I switched and studied the fuses and the manual today. Wow. As you work on a used bike you begin to lose a bit of respect of the previous owner, after correcting mistakes or corners they cut. The fuses were ALL WRONG. Some were corroded, bad, others were the wrong amp approval. I replaced them all with proper fuses, works like a charm, and it seems to be responding a little better. Might just be me riding it.

Made it up the hill and down no trouble  ;)

I'm going to run a fuel cleaner through it, in addition to changing the oil and coolant. A few more adjustments to the idle, and sealing the vacuum leak, and it's a done deal. Thanks for your help thus far! Couldn't have done it with near as much ease without you guys.

OK Quick Update: After riding it a bit more around town, I was coming home (Why does everything go wrong on the return trip?) When the Speedo/Tach/Temp Gauge started making a horrid high pitched "EEEEEEE" really loudly. I had a hunch it might be a temperature alarm, as if it were overheating, however, once I stopped, it stopped. Just pushing the bike downhill, it started again, quiet at first, but after I passed 10mph it was really loud. Is it an alarm triggered by high temperatures? Or is it something spinning around wildly and cranking something around?

Other than that, engine runs fine, better than ever!

[YellowJacket!]

First, congrats on becoming a "Rider" of Vision.
The noise is not an alarm.  Most likely your speedometer cable needs to be lubricated.
Also, just a hunch, look for any "Deer Alarms" the PO may have put on the bike.

David

[Tiger]

 :) You need to remove the speedo cable from the gauge end and force a wee bit of grease into the speedo head to lubricate it...it gets kinda dry in there after twentyodd years... ;)

                     8).......TIGER ....... 8)

[Kojo]

Ok, will check that now, thanks. Thanks, YellowJacket, it's great to finally be a Rider of Vision as well. Fun bikes, a joy to ride (And not just joyriding!).

...What's a Deer Alarm?

EDIT: Yup it was the speedo cable. Thanks!

[QBS]

Make sure you did a really good job of greasing the speed head cable receptor area.  You can not force grease into the speedo itself.  The plan is to force it into the very tight space between the receptor bearing and the speedo body.  Put wheel bearing or whatever you love grease on the tip of your finger and aggressively try to work it into the speedo head where the cable plugs into it.  In the process of doing this, grease will be forced into the tight space between the receptor bearing and the casting it rides in.

Just greasing the speedo cable will not get the job done.

NOTE TO ALL:  This is a very common failure (and easy fix) on Japanese cable driven speedometers.  Do this fix as preventive maintenace every 5 years or so and the speedo will last a very long time.  Ignore the problem and hope it will "go away", and you get to replace the speedometer and possibly the cable as well.

[YellowJacket!]

A deer alarm is one of those plastic things that people stick on their bumpers that are supposed to make a whistling noise that will scare off deer so you won't run into them.  I have seen a couple on bikes before.

David

[Kojo]

Ok, new troubles.

It runs decently, rideable, but still with some trouble.

Besides chasing vacuum leaks around the bike, the main things are two: Even after extensively cleaning the carbs, I can't idle properly (I've tried adjusting to the idle, not much working.). Sometimes it's too low, and kills the bike, other times it's idling far too high (Checked the choke, not the problem) around 3000rpm and not going down until I blip it. It's acting like there's dirt or grit still in the system, yet I extensively cleaned.

Also, when I come to stop (I'm not sure if it is doing this while it is running) and turn off the bike, the Carb Overflow starts leaking pretty badly, dumping a few ounces of gas before stopping. I'm not sure if it is the heat of Arizona summers just cooking the fuel, and when it stops and it cools the gas rapidly condenses, causing a bad temporary leak. The only other thing I can guess is that the carbs are just filling up, and the floats are out of adjustment, and when it comes to a stop the leak dumps it all in one place, where it is more noticeable.

Any thoughts?

[Night Vision]

silly question, but are you syncing the carbs after each teardown?

fuel leaks usually means float height set too high or needle valves not seating...
variable idle usually means vac leaks (assuming the carbs are clean)

I would start by adjusting your floats... a mm or two less than the Haynes manual...

while you're in there, dip and clean them again... there are tiny holes below the butterfiles that are where the low idle circut fuel enters the carbs...(someone correct me if I'm wrong) make sure they are clean... did you see them?

get rid of vac leaks before sync / tune or you will chase your tail even more

[YellowJacket!]

Just checking...Are you running hte bike with or without the YICS?  If you are running with, have you checked for leaks?

David