Steering stem bearings

[Jimustanguitar]

I want to convert my steering bearings from ball and race style separates to a one piece roller style. Does anybody know what dimensions I need to specify in order to get the correct replacement bearing size?

[Tiger]

 :) As far as I'm aware, they are not available over-the-counter at bearing distributor's...However, here is the supplier of the one I use on all my rebuilds...

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Yamaha-XZ550-1982-1983-Steering-Stem-Bearings-Kit_W0QQitemZ120531822910QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c1041a93e

                    8).......TIGER....... 8)

[nwrider]

I can confirm Tiger's assessment of these bearings not being available at your common bearing outlets.  I tried to get some from NAPA, no luck.  The link from Tiger is the way to go.

Ben

[motoracer8]

 Any motorcycle shop with a Tucker-Rocky catalog can order you stem bearings.

  Ken G.

[Jimustanguitar]

That's better, two taper bearings are worth $25 but not $50, because I'm sure the units only cost $4 or $5 each, you know?

Any suggested supplier for wheel and swingarm bearings?

Thanks!

[Tiger]

....Any suggested supplier for wheel and swingarm bearings?
Thanks!

...You mean like these...

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Yamaha-XZ550-1982-to-1986-Front-Wheel-Bearings-Kit_W0QQitemZ120531891915QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c1042b6cb

...and yes, this supplier does rear wheel bearings, fork seals, fork dust seal covers and brake pads for Vision's...and at decent prices :o The swing arm bearing, I don't know... :-\

              8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Jimustanguitar]

Very cool, thank you... I didn't get a chance to explore that seller yet because I've been working and only have the net with my phone, so it's tedious to do much more than email, you know?

Thanks again, you made my life easy... Now answer my gas cap question!


Just joking, thanks again.

[akvision]

I did some research on PYRIMID Bearings, and they have been in the business for a long time.  As far as I can figure the are in Europe and I got a feeling they are attached to the P&H Heavy Equipment group and they make bearings for cranes, shovel and heavy duty applications.  P&H makes cranes, and  shovels and I think is Dutch. (Harnishfarger??)
They look good to me.  I ordered a set of steering head replacements for my R75.  The set I recieved look to be of good quality.

[musicweb]

Tapered stem bearings are a definite improvement over OEM, but are very touchy to get adjusted correctly.....at least on my Vision. Following procedure in the manual is fine, but after tightening the stem bolt, it gets even tighter, so I had to back off the lock rings a little at a time to get the right adjustment.
Still didn't ride right though.....was kinda pulling to the left and would get a wobble occasionally.

After reading up on this, some say the swing-arm bearings contribute to what seems to be a front end problem.
I put the bike up on the lift....and there was at least 1/4" to 3/8" play from side-to-side in the swing-arm.
Decided to tear it down yesterday and it all came apart very easily. No rust, no corrosion.
Pivot shaft came right out, bushing slid out, and needles looked great. Everything still had grease on it.
No noticeable wear from the needles on the bushing.

Only thing I did notice was some wear on the 2 thrust washers on the inside inner edge.
So I turned them over for a new surface, and re-assembled everything.
I don't have a vernier to check for end play, but if I need to disassemble again, I'll get one, along with new bearings.

With torque at 60 ft lbs, I managed to get one extra hex turn for the lock ring on the pivot shaft and it all tightened right up.
No play at all by feel, will test ride later today.....

[RedRocket]

I don't have a  manual.

Does anyone happen to know the torque specs for the steering head?

[QBS]

Don't know that there is such a torque spec.  The usual plan is the tighten the bearings until there is just the very very slightest resistance in moving the handlebars from side to side.

[Re-Vision]

Haynes says tighten lower ring nut until snug but not binding when moving handle bars from side to side, another place says tighten until snug and backoff a little. Yamaha manual says tighten lower ring nut until tight but does not bind when moving forks from stop to stop.  Steerung stem bolt should be torqued to 94 ft-lbs  BDC

[Lucky]

The torque specs are for the original ball bearings & don't apply to roller bearings which are capable of much higher loads, so they must be installed, tightened, checked, ridden, checked, etc...

Also, I'm not sure how many people know how to properly pack a roller bearing.  smearing grease on the outside & races isn't enough:

the proper procedure is to put a lump of wheel bearing grease at the base of your fingers & 'scratch' the bearing over your palm, picking up a little grease each time & forcing it into the rollers 'till it comes out the top.  turn the bearing a few degrees & repeat.

it's messy, but the right way to do it.

you can also purchase a bearing packer, probably run $25...

--Lucky

[RedRocket]

The torque specs are for the original ball bearings & don't apply to roller bearings which are capable of much higher loads, so they must be installed, tightened, checked, ridden, checked, etc...

--Lucky

That's what I'm asking.  I intend to inspect and grease my originals if they look OK.

[Raj1988]

Don't do that. if you are going to all that trouble, just put in a new set of tapered bearings. It improves feedback and more importantly makes the ride so much more predictable.

[Re-Vision]

The torque setting I gave is generic for 22mm bolt holding tripletree together and the steering stem bolt should have no influence as to the type of bearing installed.   BDC

[RedRocket]

Don't do that. if you are going to all that trouble, just put in a new set of tapered bearings. It improves feedback and more importantly makes the ride so much more predictable.

My front end feels fine.  I just rebuilt my forks though, and now I have a little click on hard braking.  Often that can be steering head, so I thought I clean grease and check it because I also have read about a Vision " front end click" so I'm not gonna go crazy over it.

[inanecathode]

The thing to check is to get it on the centerstand, find a fat dude to sit on the back of the bike, or ratchet tie down to something fixed in the ground so the front end is just hanging.
Dollars to dumplings if when you lightly turn the forks left and right they'll hang dead center. This is because the very hard ball bearings pounded a little dent right in the middle where the forks spent 25 years for the most part.
It sucks, and it is a pain in the ass, but new head bearings solve alot of handling issues that pop up later.

[QBS]

Actually Inane, the center indention isn't caused by "pounding", but rather by the narrowly focused wear resulting from the virtually continuous micro steering corrections that are made to keep the bike travelling on a straight line. Think of it as continuous micro countersteering.

[jasonm.]

Haynes says tighten lower ring nut until snug but not binding when moving handle bars from side to side, another place says tighten until snug and backoff a little. Yamaha manual says tighten lower ring nut until tight but does not bind when moving forks from stop to stop.  Steerung stem bolt should be torqued to 94 ft-lbs  BDC

excuse me that spec is wrong...it's 34 ft/lbs