new old Vision

[RedRocket]

Hi folks, I recently picked up an 82 model.  I was going to part it out, and instead I got it running after a little fiberglass work on the leaky tank. I gave it a good detailing, changed all the fluids, and now I just have carb issues. Other than inspecting, I've only given it a Seafoam tune up so far.
InaneCathode has been helping me some, but I don't want to keep bugging just him, so too bad for the rest of you. :P



Anyways, she runs, but not very well.  The problems are;
1) When I come to a stop the idle stays up near 4,000 rpm for a while before dropping down to normal.
2) It has a major bog off the line near 4,000 rpm.
3) At steady speed when I go to accelerate it has a light stumble around 50% of the time.


What I know.
1) WHen I sucked on the flapper vacuum hose I could hear it flapping.  Upon closer inspection the actual flapper door is missing.  If I had to guess that has something to do with the big bog.
2)  My YICS unit seems to be well sealed by a previous owner.
3)  WHen running if I spray brake cleaner it seems like the intake manifolds are leaking at the cylinder head because the engine speeds up.


Should I buy manifold gaskets, or just use gasket goop?
Anybody got a flapper door laying around? ;D

[Lucky]

--you can make new intake gaskets, that's easy.
--seal the intakes with "liquid electrical tape"
-- verify the YICS isn't leaking: set it in a bowl of water with a hose attached to one of the fittings, blow in the hose while holding the YICS submerged. you shouldn't get ANY bubbles.
repeat with the other fitting.

if you do get bubbles, either out the other fitting it along the edge, reseal the YICS.

--Synq the carbs.  this and a vacuume leak (intakes, YICS) will give you a slow return to idle.

shiney shiney bike you got there!

--Lucky & Kitty

[RedRocket]

I just tried to make a flapper door, but I don't know what it's supposed to look like.
Can anyone take a picture for me?
I made just a flat piece of tin, but it doesn't seem to be right. Is the mount part at a 90 degree angle from the door, or ?

[RedRocket]

I had done the blow test on the YICS before and I though it was OK, but when I put it in a bowl of water, it had a pinhole on each side, so I'm sealing it up once more.

While trying to pull the carbs it seems that the rear carb butts up against the frame rail on the left.  Any suggestions?

Also, I broke this little plastic fitting on the carb.  How do I fix that?

[akvision]

I can send you a proper air box complete with functional flapper if you will refund the postage and make a small donation to the ""ROV Foundation".

Send me your address.

Make sure the vacuum hoses open the flapper when you open the throttle, if reversed you get a major bogg as the flapper snaps shut at exactly the wrong time.
Nice looking bike.

AKVision

[Tiger]

 :) To remove your carbs...remove the wire loom from the clips on the left side and pull away from the frame slightly...do the same with the hoses on the right side. Lift the carbs away from the rubber manifolds and swing the front carb out first via the left side...its sometimes a wee bit tricky but they will come out.

You need to repair the plastic nipple that is snapped. You can use a variety of things to fix this...but I've used a piece of 1/8" tube, drilled the broken part and epoxied it in.

Take AKVision up on his offer...it will save you possible future problems. The flapper has to be exact size and weight as the oem one!! You can always keep your airbox top as a spare.

I'm one of those here that run without the YIKES!!! I capped them off at the heads with vacuum caps from the local automotive store...

            8).......TIGER....... 8)

[xswheels]

RedRocket, in your picture you have the wiring harness and the clear air tubes routed incorrectly. When it's time for reassembly, tuck the harness into the bendable tabs attached to the frame and secure it high and tight. The clear air tubes attached to the enricher valves should run inside the frame and tight to the carbs.

[RedRocket]

I'll keep that in mind when I put it back together.

I got the carbs out. I think the previous owner may have been a member. It looks like the manifolds have been 'painted' before.  I opened up the diaphragm and it looked OK.

I really don't want to take the carbs apart. 
Is there anything simple and easy I should unscrew or open up and check or blow out based on my running description?
Both the accelerator jets squirt just fine.

[Night Vision]

did you get it from one of inanes buddies?

KWells old bike 'blackie"?

[RedRocket]

did you get it from one of inanes buddies?

KWells old bike 'blackie"?

Nope.  I think I'm on the other side of the country.


Update time.

While it was down I pulled the soggy, leaking front forks off.  They came apart without too much work.  I cleaned them out and replaced the seals.  The clearcoat was yellow, and coming off so I stripped, and polished them.  While apart I cut 1.8" off the springs and made new spacers 2.8 inches longer than the old spacers.  I used 15 wt fork oil, and now they feel much much better.

I removed the carbs, and sealed the intake manifolds with 3 coats of liquid e-tape.
I installed the airbox with flapper that I received from AKVision ( thanks).
Now my off-the-line stumble has been reduced by about 90%.  I'm not scared of getting rear-ended now.
The steady riding stumble has also been reduced to nearly gone.
It idles steadier now, but the idle still hangs up around 3500 rpm when I let off the gas. 
I'll have to dig in and see what I missed.

[Re-Vision]

If you haven't synched the carbs I would recommend that you do.   BDC

[RedRocket]

If you haven't synched the carbs I would recommend that you do.   BDC

I plan to.  I had fiddled with enough so I wanted to make sure it was running first.

The weird thing about the hanging idle is that it only does it half the time.

I also should mention I had a helluva time with the YICS box.  It had been sealed previously, and I air tested it, and it seemed OK.  Someone here mentioned dipping it in water, so then I found a couple of pinholes.  After silicone sealing them, a couple more popped up, and on and on. By the time I was done it was too fat to fit back into the chromed can.
I cleaned it all back off, and then ground down whatever had been done to it before, and I resealed it with two coats of resin from fiberglass kit.  It's air tight now.

Yes, I have also replaced the brake rod bolts.

[jim328]

I had the same issue with my idle speed, at first it was all the time snyching the carbs fixed that. But then it would inexplicably go up to 3-4000rpm and not come back down. It turned out after much investigation that with my bike it only did it occassionally when the bars were turned left all the way to the stop. On unfaired bikes like mine there is a hook on the headlight bracket holding the brake line. The accelarator cable was getting caught in this on left lock pulling and trapping the cable so it wouldn't return to the throttle stop. I bent the hook around a bit and this solved the problem. I noticed your bike was unfaired, could be worth checking that throttle cable isn't getting caught like mine was.

[inanecathode]

Make sure the vacuum hoses open the flapper when you open the throttle, if reversed you get a major bogg as the flapper snaps shut at exactly the wrong time.

This man speaks the troof.

[Lucky]

something else that causes throttle hang at those RPM's:

check the front of the synq rod isn't hanging slightly on the front left intake manifold bolt.  i've seen a few do this..

[RedRocket]

Well I won't be getting to the carb sync just yet.

I tried to put some miles on it today, and was over 20 miles from home and on my way to an appointment when it just flat died on me pulling away from a light.  I had just done it's first freeway blast for about 15 miles.

I had no electric power anywhere.  I checked the fuses and they were all fine, except when I pulled the 30A MAIN fuse it took one of the blades with it.  The fuse was solid, but brown inside.



After snooping around some, I see this a typical problem. It looks like the connection had been corroding, and it finally got hot enough.  It also seems like this wasn't the first time either, as one of the 4 fuses had already been replaced with an inline one.  Time for a new fuse block  >:(

[Tiger]

Time for a new fuse block  >:(

:) This is one of the first things that I cut out on ALL the Visions that come through my place...These old fuse boxes can cause you all sorts of problems if not replaced...and do not forget to replace the in-line fan fuse/holder, in the headlight bucket too!!

I use in-line ATO blade fuse holders/fuses to replace all of these...and I peel off the oem fuse list from the old box and apply it to the fender next to the new fuses... ;)

           8).......TIGER....... 8)

[YellowJacket!]

Time for a new fuse block  >:(

:) This is one of the first things that I cut out on ALL the Visions that come through my place...These old fuse boxes can cause you all sorts of problems if not replaced...and do not forget to replace the in-line fan fuse/holder, in the headlight bucket too!!

I use in-line ATO blade fuse holders/fuses to replace all of these...and I peel off the oem fuse list from the old box and apply it to the fender next to the new fuses... ;)

           8).......TIGER....... 8)

Ya know.... I didn't even think of that as a reason to why YJ died the other day.  I still have the oem fuseblock but I replaced all of the fuse holders with newer ones that I scavenged from a kit at radio shack.  I wanted to keep the OEM look going, but now that I've changed so much, I'll have to first check, then change that too. 
Thanks redrocket and Tiger for jogging my memory.  8)

David

[RedRocket]

Waaaa!  :'( :'(

How can I make something so simple so difficult.

After replacing the fuse panel I can't get it running!

I seem to have some constant power problem.  I should have my live 12 volt power connected to the Main 30 amp fuse, right?  When I do that and connect my brown turn signal/dash light line it stays on 100% of the time, key ON, or key OFF.  Same as the headlights, etc.

Did I fry something else like my ignition key switch?

[fret not]

Just an observation, the condition of your fuse block is pretty corroded/oxidized and looks like a real problem, which you proved.  I would seriously look into your ignition switch as it has been on the same bike for the same amount of time and likely is not too different condition from your fuse block.  That switch controls electric power to the bike.  You seem pretty perceptive, so follow your hunch and dig into it.  Let us know what you find.