new old Vision

[inanecathode]

probably should take off/out the ignition switch and see if that solves the problem. That'll determine if its the ig sw shorting or something further down in the harness.

[Re-Vision]

Try disconnecting the ignition switch and see if you still have lights on all the time. Ignition switch is probably okay because wiring is enclosed, also the area where you were working is most likely where your new problem will be found. If you have a Volt/Ohm meter it shouldn't be too hard to locate your short.   BDC

[RedRocket]

This picture is not very good, and I don't think that this is my problem, but maybe someone can tell me what was done.  I'm guessing that the PO wired around the sidestand switch, because I don't have any indicator light.

If you look closely in front of the coolant bottle you'll see the wire connector apart, and a white wire added in that runs back up to my fuse panel. In the picture above this post you'll see the white wire going to the ignition fuse.

Last night I shot the key switch with some WD 40, and this morning my problem is still there.  I just unscrewed the key switch, but I can't see what color wires are in it.

[QBS]

FWIW corrosion between the OEM fuse prongs and the glass tube fuses leads to electrical resistance.  This leads to heat, which internally desolders the fuse link.  This gives the appearance of an unblown fuse that doesn't conduct electricity.  The tell tale is that the process of unsoldering creates a brown residue on the inside of the fuse glass tube.  The 30A main fuse prongs carry the most electricity and can therefore create the most heat in the presence of corrosion.

The heat of resistance also melts the plastic that the fuse prongs are mounted in.  The end result is a destroyed fuse holder.  This problem is not just for V's.  I had two otherwise excellent late 1970's Toyota Coronas that both developed this problem.  The core of the problem is corrosion.

My '83 still has its' excellent condition OEM fuse holder.  The secret to not having fuse holder issues is to wrap a nail with a small piece of sandpaper and sand the inside of the fuse holder prongs to bright and shiny condition.  Also sand the metal ends of the tubular fuses.  Next, coat the inside of the holder prongs with a very thin coating of grease.  Install the fuses and declare victory.  The grease creates a vapor barrier between the metal of the fuse holder prongs and the fuse metal end caps.  No vapor(aka moist air) means no corrosion.  Problem solved.

This is a permanent fix that requires no further attention.

[RedRocket]

Try disconnecting the ignition switch and see if you still have lights on all the time. Ignition switch is probably okay because wiring is enclosed, also the area where you were working is most likely where your new problem will be found. If you have a Volt/Ohm meter it shouldn't be too hard to locate your short.   BDC

I disconnected the ignition switch from inside the headlight bucket, and it made no difference.

Right now I have the new fuse panel bolted to the plastic inner fender.  The only wire I have connected is the 12 v live Main line through to a 30 amp fuse.  I do not have any ground wires hooked to the fuse panel.  Now if I take my headlight wire, and attach it to one of the 10 A fuses the headlight goes on, key in, key out, keyswitch connected, or disconnected.  Under all conditions WITHOUT a return wire hooked to the ground pole.  If I connect what I know to be the dash light/signal wire ( brown) also WITHOUT the return line hooked up   the Oil and Neutral lights are on key in, key out, etc, etc.

It sounds like there may be ghost in there, or a short.  Considering that I don't even have a ground wire connected to the fuse panel is my problem IN the fuse panel?   



It's an ATC fuse panel I got from Autozone with 6 blade fuse ports and one ground post at the top

[Re-Vision]

 I can see where each wire comes into one side of a fuse but its not apparent where the other end of the fuse is connected. Each fuse should connect to the same two wires it did in the old fuse panel (those two only). Would like to see a picture of the bottom of the fuse panel as there should be no metallic contact between any separate fuse ends to any other, I am suspicious of your fuse panel as it seems to have a  connection in common to all of your fuses. Your fuse block even having a ground post indicates that you have an improper (incorrect) fuse panel.   BDC

[RedRocket]

Yes that seems to be the case, that they all feed back out the top post.

I'll unbolt the panel.

[QBS]

There is no ground wire associated with fuse panel.  Why would there be?

[RedRocket]

There is no ground wire associated with fuse panel.  Why would there be?

Where should the power travel to?

[Re-Vision]

The plus twelve Volt current goes through the fuse to whatever component (relay,solenoid,light bulbs,etc.) it's actuating and returns to the negative battery side through chassis ground. That plug with the white wire connected appears to connect to the starter solenoid, I have no idea what they (PO) were trying to accomplish.   BDC

[vadasz1]

If you take a wire connect one end to your load and the other to your battery positive terminal.  Now you have a direct power source.  If you want to protect that psitive wire then you just cut it anywhere inbetween the power supply and the load and install your fuse in series (each cut end of the wire connects to a terminal on the fuse).  Now you have a fused constant power source. 

If you wanted to install a switch then you do exactly the same thing but install the switch between the load and the fuse.

I don't know why there is a ground terminal on a fuse block.  Shouldn't be unless the block is used in a negative switched system like some old Fords used to be and may still be.

I would go back to the store and ask them to suggest another REGULAR fuse block or go to Radio Shack and try there.

[Re-Vision]

This is what I'm using, think its what Tiger recommended.

http://www.cyclenutz.com/products/electrical_accessories/fuse_panel_relays/centech_fb-6_atc_fuse_block.html

[RedRocket]

I don't know why there is a ground terminal on a fuse block.  Shouldn't be unless the block is used in a negative switched system like some old Fords used to be and may still be.

I would go back to the store and ask them to suggest another REGULAR fuse block or go to Radio Shack and try there.

I'm thinking the same thing.  I've only found one other, and it was too big to fit under the seat.
It's too bad I can't find one of those Centech boxes in stock somewhere.

[akvision]

Red, Thanks for the refund..
Remember to support the 'Foundation"  our web site... without it... we could never meet and just think of all the help that has been offered...
We all need to remember to 'Donate" and keep this site alive.

OK! I am off my soap box now.

AKVision

[Tiger]

This is what I'm using, think its what Tiger recommended.

http://www.cyclenutz.com/products/electrical_accessories/fuse_panel_relays/centech_fb-6_atc_fuse_block.html

:) No sir, not I...I use separate in-line blade fuse holders/fuses.

Wires are cut to different lengths, connected and heat shrink applied, add a couple of cable ties and using a fender washer/self tapping screw, fasten down to inner fender, utilising one of the original fuse box holes...VOILA!!! Inexpensive, clean/tidy finish and.......Easy to install!!

8).......TIGER....... 8)

[RedRocket]

Red, Thanks for the refund..
Remember to support the 'Foundation"  our web site... without it... we could never meet and just think of all the help that has been offered...
We all need to remember to 'Donate" and keep this site alive.

OK! I am off my soap box now.

AKVision

No worries.  I already did.  Thanks for the airbox.  At first I wondered why you sent the bottom, when I only needed the top but when it came time to put my carbs back in the old airbox didn't want to nestle back on the carbs, but yours went on much easier for some reason so it's all good.

[RedRocket]

Well I made it into an ugly job, but I have  restored power to the old girl.

JB welded the bottom of my petcock today too.

[RedRocket]

I've put 100 miles on it since the repair.  I'm a little paranoid.  As I ride in traffic every time I smell some other car burning I start to worry that it's me, but so far so good.  I did  carry extra fuses with me just in case. ;D
  Now that the front end is working well, and the carbs are "OK" I've rung it out a little bit.  Not that the Vision is slow, it's just slowest bike I've owned in a while.  Anyways, I figured that revving it up wasn't going to accomplish much, but I'm pleasantly surprised to find that this bike pulls pretty steadily all the way up to 10,000 rpm!  I was impressed.  I do try and avoid that with all of the 20+ year old bikes I've been riding, but I have to experience it at least once.

As far as ride-ability the flapper door paid in spades. If I'm not casual, and at least just a little aggressive with the throttle off the line my Vision's 'BURP' is pretty much unnoticeable.
The idle is still hanging up at times, and today I gave the carb area and soaking with spray carb cleaner and I seem to have gotten all of the vacuum leaks as my manifolds are air tight now.  Hopefully I'm going to tackle my first carb sync tomorrow and with any luck it well help.

[inanecathode]

A mixture tune will help enormously as well.

[RedRocket]

Today I went for a little ride to warm it up in preparation for a carb sync.

After a few miles I found my brake lever getting firmer, and firmer. By the time I got it back home the bike was struggling to move because the front brake had tightened up.


What's up?