Tappity Tap Tap on an 82

[Re-Vision]

Try reading these and see if they help,especially the first post.



http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=10535.0

BDC

[Rick G]

The fact that the noise diminishes or goes away at a higher rpm, indicates it does need immediate attention to the starter clutch and balance shaft nut, asap.
You need to get it straightend out before you do much riding, Sorry.
I spent a month getting my first Vision ready for the road and 2 getting my VX800 to a state where I would trust it more than around the block.
Look at it this way, some one  has gotten  a lot of the "good " out of it and you are going to have to put  the "good " back in.

[inanecathode]

You know, really its not that much work to get into the valve cover on the vision, just yank the tank, undo the bolts, pull them out, and pop the cover off. Changing the shims, though, is a different story.

[fret not]

Ejether, if you are getting metallic particles in your oil that metal is coming from somewhere.  You mentioned that it is not attracted to a magnet, so that leaves crank bearings, aluminum from various parts like castings that house the cam chains, pistons, engine cases that get rubbed by something out of kilter, or any number of other possibilities.  Sound can be elusive when trying to track it to it's source, so keep looking for  possibilities until you find the problem. 

Are your cam chains adjusted properly? 

You can measure your valve clearances to see if one or more have too much clearance.  You would need the extractor tool to make any changes.

Keep us informed, all these problems can happen to any one of us and it is good to know how to deal with them if they arise.

[ejether]

Yellowjacket
About 23500

Tiger et al.
Its in process. I needed to get a few tools before I could finish the job.
Any suggestions on holding the flywheel in place? I'm having a hard time finding a chain wrench that will fit! Mine was a few links too short.
Also, do I need to get a 46mm socket or is there something out there I can make do with?

[Lucky]

a lead wheel weight between the gears will hold the engine tight.  don't forget to take it back out! lol

use a punch and a hammer (carefully!) working both sides of the nut to tighten it.  it's skinny so don't overdo it whatever tool you use!

[jasonm.]

You should get a 46mm socket. But it may ge a 3/4" or one inch drive. Then adaptors would be needed. ALSO it would need to be a DEEP ONE. Some get  a box wrench and MARK the nut and lock washer. And using the marks as a start , just make it tighter than before... Others have gotten the box wrench then cut the end off and welded to a deep socket. BUT BOX wrenches are often 12 point and this is a lot of torque for a 12 pointer. The book says 76 ft/lbs using the "YAMAHA TOOL". BUT that is not the same as using a torque wrench on a socket. I did mine up near 100ft/lbs. w/socket. Yes, you could over torque it...

[ejether]

Update.

Tiger...
I must admit, I may have been cursing you loudly under my breath while wrestling with the flywheel and breaking bolt after bolt on my puller but you were right.

My starter clutch only was loose and rubbing, but its cracked.
It looks like the metal shavings I've been seeing could be coming from the cover of the starter clutch too.

WELL, hats off gents..

Any suggestions on where I can get a 'new' one and how much it might cost?

Thanks

[ejether]

oops, meant to attach photos too.

There appears to be some scarring on the crank shaft and the gear behind it from the clutch rubbing on it.
Assuming I can get a replacement part, does this look like it will be a problem on reassembly?

[Lucky]

just battle scars, nothing to worry about. find a new clutch housing & probably rollers & you'll be fine.

[ejether]

Good to know, thanks Lucky

Just ebayed one local for less than $30
I don't know if thats good or not but it seems like I shouldn't pass it up.

[Tiger]

Tiger...
I must admit, I may have been cursing you loudly under my breath while wrestling with the flywheel and breaking bolt after bolt on my puller but you were right.
My starter clutch only was loose and rubbing, but its cracked. It looks like the metal shavings I've been seeing could be coming from the cover of the starter clutch too.

:) Curse me all you like...there is nothing you can call me that my first two wives haven't  :o ;D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D... 8)...However, neither one said I was right ::) ;D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
   
I agree with Lucky, they are minor 'battle scars', no real worries there.

Make sure that you wash the flywheel down in a solvent to get rid of any oil/metal residue and dry off completely...especially the threads...not forgetting the three springs/end caps/rollers, gear & flywheel bolt.
Check the condition of the three rollers...should they show any sign of wear (flat spots), junk them along with the old stator.
Buy three new soc' head cap screws...M8 x 16mm :-\...from your local hardware store and wash them off in solvent (brake and parts cleaner).On re installation, use RED thread locker on the three soc head cap screws, tighten and peen the (threaded) ends over like mushroom heads.
Install the three springs/end caps & rollers in there housings and install the gear into the starter clutch.
Tighten down the 46mm nut and bend down the two locking tabs...You can now reinstall the flywheel assembly and torque it down...Install the engine side cover, frsh oil, etc, and your off to the races mate... 8)

8).......TIGER....... 8)

[kev10104]

I had that problem as well and tiger came to the rescue.

[ejether]

Update!!!
Tiger... while you weren't wrong, you weren't exactly right either.
Neither was I.

While you were right about the starter clutch needing to be replaced, it was not the source of the noise. At least not all of the noise.

BUT Flywheel replaced and the noise was going.. but the engine wouldn't keep running.
The vacuum line had come off the petcock while I was working, reattach that, and the noise came back. TAP TAP TAP TAP from the tank. Set the petcock to prime, pull the vacuum line. The bike runs and the noise is gone.

So the thing that bugged me about the noise and the popular diagnosis of the starter clutch was that it should be at engine speed, but my tap was 1/2 speed. Since the vacuum line only comes from the forward cylinder, 1/2 speed tap. No gas cap, the tap is still there.

Another thing that bugs me: the onset... When I got the bike, the starter clutch was broken obviously but it wasn't tapping.
An oil change later AND a petcock rebuild later, a tap started.

So, heres what I think: the new petcock valve is tapping as the front cylinder pulls vacuum. NOW, Any thoughts about how I can stop it?

[inanecathode]

I thought the noise was coming from the front cylinder valve cover?  ???

[ejether]

Yea... so did I.

The noise came mostly from the tank which I assumed was just acting as a resonator and the noise seemed the loudest from the front cylinder valve cover.  Not  that it wasn't louder there, just that it wasn't the right place to look.

A couple false assumptions... tank was just a resonator and the petcock had nothing to do with it. Glad to at least know what it is now.


Also, when I am on my knee listening to the front left exhaust valve.. whats in the right ear but the petcock :-)