Clutch problem

Started by munkyfistfight, July 06, 2011, 05:58:37 PM

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munkyfistfight

OK, one more problem to add to the heap. Sorry guys, and thanks for being helpful and patient with me.

When I rode it around the block a couple weeks ago, I suspected that the clutch might be out of adjustment. The clutch only engaged at the very end of letting the lever out. So I looked at the Haynes book and various other resources and adjusted so that the pointer aligned with the notch on the crankcase. After I did this, I noticed that when I pulled the lever in that it wouldn't pull in all the way and that there was absolutely no way to adjust the free play. It was really tight.

Fast forward...I get all the electrical stuff put back and went to take it out around the block again. I let the clutch out and nothing. It's in gear but it's like the clutch isn't disengaging...I think. I double checked my adjustment today and get the same results.

With it up on the center stand and in gear, I can spin the rear wheel and see the pressure plate rotating with the side cap off, but it's not engaged to the motor i.e. I can't hear the pistons moving.

Could the clutch be frozen and not disengaging all the way? Or maybe I burned the clutch out....? I don't know where to begin.
Those who play by the book will always be beaten by those who write their own. -Travis Pastrana

QBS

Extremely doubtful that you have "burned the clutch out".  Hard to understand your description.

With bike on center stand, engine off, in first gear, hand off clutch lever, can you rotate the back wheel?

Same scenario as above, but with clutch lever pulled in, can you rotate the back wheel?

From what I can understand from your complaint description, would initially suspect erroneous clutch cable routing.

munkyfistfight

Yes. I can rotate the rear wheel with my hand both on and off the lever.

At the moment, I have the clutch cable removed.
Those who play by the book will always be beaten by those who write their own. -Travis Pastrana

QBS

So you're saying that you can hold the clutch cable in your hand, with the bike on center stand, engine off, transmission in first gear,...and rotate the back wheel?

Hartless

Quote from: QBS on July 06, 2011, 07:24:36 PM
So you're saying that you can hold the clutch cable in your hand, with the bike on center stand, engine off, transmission in first gear,...and rotate the back wheel?
if so i think that you would have bigger problems than the clutch
Ride Hartless or stay home


"strive for perfection , settle for excellence"

munkyfistfight

Yes, exactly that.

The clutch cable isn't even connected now, and with it in gear I can rotate the rear wheel. If this helps any, with the plug off of the right side looking in, I can see the clutch rotating when I do so..... When it's in neutral and I spin the wheel, the clutch doesn't rotate.
Those who play by the book will always be beaten by those who write their own. -Travis Pastrana

Rikugun

Before you go replacing the clutch I'd try readjusting again. If I'm understanding you correctly, the clutch worked until you adjusted it. I therefore suspect you adjusted the clutch incorrectly. It almost sounds like you've got the adjustment so tight the clutch is disengaged all the time.  At least, that is the best case scenario. :o

Leave the cable off and redo the adjustment carefully using the manual. Resinstall the cable and see where you're at. If all else fails, try adjusting it the way it was before messing with it (if you remember it's original position) and see what happens. Having it engage towards the end of the lever's travel isn't bad provided there is a little free play.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

munkyfistfight

Thanks. I think you're right.

After the first adjustment, when I pulled the lever into the handlebar, it was really tight. It didn't even touch the handle. No free play whatsoever.

Am I reading the manual right? When I adjust the little screw on the clutch the little pointer and notch on the case should line up when I move the thing forward, right? When it ceases to travel any further forward, the two should line up exactly, right? Does that make sense?

That's what I did.

But when I did that, all this started to happen.

I'm rereading the manual, but I think I'm getting something backwards here. There haven't been any strange noises when I shift or anything, so I don't think I broke anything. In fact in the last couple weeks when I started it up, I didn't even put it in gear.....so I think I just adjusted something wrong.
Those who play by the book will always be beaten by those who write their own. -Travis Pastrana

lexx790

The way I adjust the clutch is to fit the clutch cable, with the adjustment fully in on the handlebar.
Undo the locking nut on the clutch adjusting screw, undo the adjusting screw until loose, then wind in till youstart to feel a bit of friction. Check the clutch lever for feel and if its engaging the clutch. If it's too loose you will have slack in the cable and the lever will be show some slack. When correctly adjusted, don't forget to tighten the locknut.

munkyfistfight

Ok cool. I watched a video on youtube last night about loosening it out all the way and adjusting in until resistance is felt. Ill try that.
The way I was following directions, I had the damn thing turned in almost all the way to get the pointers to line up. That didn't seem right, especially with the results I got. Much appreciated!
Those who play by the book will always be beaten by those who write their own. -Travis Pastrana

jasonm.

one missed step is. "no adjustment at the engine should be done UNTIL the associated cable is totally "slacked out" "...aka- lots of free play should exist at cable prior to any adjustment at engine...
looks aren't important, if she lets you play by your rules

Rikugun

Not missed, just unspoken. It's between the lines.  :)

Munkyfistfight's July 6th post notes the cable is off. I suspected he may have let the cable adjustment interfere with the engine mechanism adjusment so suggested he adjust it prior to reinstalling the cable.

It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

munkyfistfight

Well, here's what I did....and it worked. The video I watched showed to loosen the locknut and back the adjustment screw out until it felt slack. Then to screw it back in until resistance was felt, and to tighten the locknut there. Wah-lah!! I get perfect free-play adjustment at the lever. It pulls in smoothly (no tightness) and I actually got to ride it. It felt great. It even shifts smoothly. Remarkable.

Thanks again anyways. :P
Those who play by the book will always be beaten by those who write their own. -Travis Pastrana

Rikugun

Glad to hear you're back on the road and it was a simple fix.  Nice work! :)
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

munkyfistfight

I actually got it out on the road yesterday. I'm not going to have much time to work on it in the next couple of days, so I took it to a friends shop and he's going to finish up the carb tuning and inspect it for me. That bike loves the road!
Those who play by the book will always be beaten by those who write their own. -Travis Pastrana

akvision

Glad to see your riding it.. and it is going..there is still lots of summer left.

akvision
1960 BMW R-50 "Hanz" reborn April 24, 2009 , Ketchikan
1982 "V" AKBluv, Denver, traded for BMW R1100S
1977 BMW R75/7, "Gertie"
1977 BMW R75/7, Green Lantern Cafe Project
Deep In the INSIDE PASSAGE, Alaska