MOSFET convert...

[Rikugun]

Shindengen MOSFET R/R model numbers start with FH. The silcon controlled rectifiers start with SH.

[The Prophet of Doom]

For the Shindengen, the FH codes are mosfet.  The FH0012AA is I believe the one to go for - standard equipment on the Honda CB1000RR, Yamaha R1 and a few others

[Rikugun]

For the Shindengen, the FH codes are mosfet

there must be an echo in here...   :D  :D

Mine is from a > '07 CBR600RR (FH008?) and has pig tails on it that I soldered my own plugs on. The 012 variants and some others require a plug to fit an integral socket. You'd need to cut the plug end from the Honda's wiring harness or go to a site like this that sells the proper plug and terminal ends:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html
According to the site the newer 1000RR uses a 014 and they do not have that plug/terminal kit available as of yet.

[jasonm.]

That's real close..  http://www.shindengen.co.jp/top_e/index.html


BTW, is this seller (jasonmotoelectrix) you?

http://compare.ebay.com/like/360358573656?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y

NO...not me...

[spectre]

Hey guys, I'm replacing my fried R/R with a MOSFET, and excuse my ignorance, but I have NO clue where to start... I'm electrically ignorant... can I just pull any old regulator off any bike? do I have to have a certain type? where can I get one?   ??? thanks guys!
(p.s. I have read this whole thread, and searched, but I'm just REALLY not good with electronics  ::) )

[NewVisionGuy]

From the looks of it,  this might be what you're looking for if you can solder the connectors together yourself.    Radio Shack will have the wire you need.  Appears to be the same 5-wire connection that Tiger talked about at the beginning of the post. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SHINDENGEN-FH012AA-REGULATOR-W-CONNECTORS-?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item588d8645ad&item=380331509165&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_863wt_1110

There's also this one which should be the same one Tiger used.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CBR600RR-CBR-600RR-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-2003-2006-03-06-FH008BA-?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item3f0eabd495&item=270829081749&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_690wt_1110

[Cdnlouie]

The CBR 600 is the easiet to install (very close to original size). You don't have to go looking for connectors.  Since there are four wires (on most of them but not all, two positive and negative) coming from the RR I ran two to my regular wiring harness connectors and the other two directly to my battery.  I figure my bases are covered with that configuration.

Observations from install: Better battery charging, higher output for low rpms, better output for accessories such as heated jacket/gloves of which I use both.  Combined with a battery tender you have a very effective charging system for short rides (20-30 minutes) or long hauls.

Since the Mosfets regulate heat so well they can be installed in the original location (or in your pocket for that matter  ::)) behind battery box which I have since returned my R/R after about 10 years of rear footpeg location. I went through 2 original RR's over 55000 km and I was becoming a bit suspicious of some frame vibration issues contributing to their demise during that time (just can't confirm it).  The voltage regulator went in the first one, and a diode burned out in the second lowering output and behaving exactly like a stator burned out on one of the three windings.  You can never be sure until you do a diode check in the RR to confirm or a grounding test for the stator (I am on stator no. 4 at the moment). In retrospect I like the original location and the Mosfet makes the heat issue a non-issue.

By next season I will know if the Mosfet is doing a better job with my stator as I should be due for no. 5 by then (15000km per stator, like clockwork).  It will be interesting to see if there is any positive effect in this area  :-\.

[spectre]

Awesome! thanks guys! I'll see if I can't find a CBR mosfet. so, it's pretty much plug (or solder  ;)) and play, right? I'll have to find the location of that pull-a-part here in TN... good luck with your stator CL :)

[Lucky]

ok, I have a very good question:

How do you test a Mofset R/R? what is the procedure?  I don't think it would be the same for a standard R/R...

Anyone? Buler? Buler?

[Rikugun]

The procedure is apparently different as fret nut found out.
http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=12661.0

I don't know that anyone has posted a procedure for the MOSFETs yet. Looks like you'll have to use the process of elimination for now.  :)

Cdnlouie - 4 wires? Mine has 5 total -3 stator input, one 12v output, and 1 ground. Was yours from a 2008 or newer Cbr600?

[Cdnlouie]

Good question on the testing procedure Lucky. It was always nice to find out for certain that something was bad in the RR before tossing it.  Until someone reveals that mystery we will have to rely upon checking the stator and if it's good (no grounding), then replace the RR. If necessary, swap it out with a buddy to make sure it's bad or good. That's pretty much the procedure for now. It kind of sounds like a modern technique, plug it in and if it works great; if not, plug another one in.

I used Tiger's automotive connector for my stator wires which was a very nice addition to system.  One red and green standard connector to the regular wiring harness and then the two addtional red & green directly to the battery.  Once it is wired up this way it is easy to check stator for grounding by a nice clean connector.

The wires on my unit (CBR600 2005-6) are actually seven in total 3 yellow stator wires, 2 red positive and 2 green negative.  Sometimes the positive and negative wires are two or four wires.  There is no difference, it just seems like they wanted to increase the capacity of the output wires by doubling up on them; rather than one larger wire.  It is easier working with two smaller wires.  This has been done on other models for some time.  My Venture Royale did this in 1985 on its RR output to lessen connector failure by moving the current through two connectors rather than one.

[fret not]

Lucky, when I contacted the fellow that wrote the MOSFET conversion thread on the www.eviltwinsbk.com he didn't know of a test that could be done on a MOSFET unit other than plugging it in and reading the meter.  He did say he had never seen a failed one, so hopefully that bodes well for those of us that have installed them on our bikes.

[Lucky]

Found a good blog with an explanation of how they work. It's (mostly) over my head unless i study it & learn the components.

he might be the one to ask to design a flow chart for diagnostics...

[Lucky]

A URL might help huh? lol

http://mastercircuits.blogspot.com/2011/08/fet-type-motorcycle-voltage-regulator.html

[Cdnlouie]

That's a very cool blog  8) , lots of nice goodies to browse there. Throw it out to him and see if he is intrigued by the idea, it sounds up his alley  He may know how to do it or know who has done it already.  Good sourcing! I would love to read a bit more detailed explanation as he just begins to touch on the process. I am interested in how it works in conjunction with the stator as he just touches on that idea.  To see if we have an RR that could actually extend stator life.

[QBS]

Boy, MOSFET is sounding more and more like a fix for our stator issues.  I loved the part where he says that shunt type regulators run hot and really don't do well in hot environments.  Would that include the little muffler heated hot box that is the stock location for V r/rs'?  Maybe.

His comment about having a load on the shunt type r/r to make its' job easier is pertinent to me.  I've been running a 100/130 watt headlight bulb on my stock wiring and oem 10A fuse for many years.  Fuses don't blow and the wiring shows no distress.  Can't say for absolute certainty, but can't remember replacing a stator since then.  Highly recommend this mod.  Can't have too much light on my m/c and if it makes stators live longer, all the better.  Cheap, easy, plug and play, for off road use only, of course.

[Cdnlouie]

Or if you are a northern boy you can just plug in your electric vest  ;D.

Just remember that the Mosfet is still a shunt RR but it manages the shunting differently. While it does not shunt it to a heat sink like in the old RR's and gets very hot, it does shunt the extra voltage somewhere in the system.  The interesting question is just where does it go?

I know it does a much better job of charging the battery yet without boiling it over (effective management as per the circuits in the blog diagram), this is no doubt part of where the current is going.  I would guess that at lower rpms the mosfet sends everything to the battery wheras the old unit is shunting to the heat sink even at low rpm's. More current is probably being consumed in the entire electrical system, and components are being better powered for more effective operation.

Even at higher rpm the Mosfet is shunting the unneeded power somewhere in the system, but not in the old style heat sink style.  Someone who understands the circuit diagram (like on the site Lucky found) would be able to explain this design much better, but I think this is the essence of it.

By the way QBS, how many miles do you have on your current stator? 

[QBS]

The present/fourth stator was installed approx. 21 years and 50k miles ago.  The first three (oem+ 2 replacements) failed within the first six years of my ownership.  The 100/130 headlight bulb was installed not very long after the present stator was installed.

As an anecdotal aside, in '99 I rode the bike to California and experienced some really hot desert riding conditions.  Temps were often in the 105 to 110 F range.  I rode the bike as usual, often for lengthy sustained periods of 7k+ rpm.  The RR was mounted in the stock location.  The bike showed no charging/electrical problems.  Eight years later the RR failed in the 17.5V mode.  A used replacement RR, mounted on the left passenger foot peg bolt, now delivers 13.2V to 14.2V depending on engine rpm. 

[Cdnlouie]

I'm impressed with your stator record! That qualifies as serious bragging rights.  I know Jason M. has a long running stator too, but there are not many of you out there.  Talk about a study in contrasts, you may have one of the best records and worst  ::).

Why don't you start a thread for longest lasting stators (I don't think we've done that yet) just for fun, and let's see how many actually qualify?   

Indeed, your higher wattage headlight may well have made a favorable contribution, you just never know what combination of factors brings success.  It would be interesting to add any modifications/setup/driving conditions, that have been done to the bikes with the longest running stators.

We should also do a mosfet group too, so we can see if they contribute to longer stator life. I have never done more than 15,000km (9000miles) on a stator (fourth one now), so if I go over this time, I will start singing the praises of the mosfet.

The oil-cooler fellows should be showing some signs of success or not too, as these have been about the best things to do to help extend stator life.

[Brian Moffet]

And on the other side to QBS' tale, I have gone 48000 miles on the original stator and R/R...  (stock size lights as well)

Brian