Going Racing

[jefferson]

Don't worry about more power right now, that can come later. A slow bike makes you a faster rider as you learn to make up for it in the corners. Concentrate on suspension, brakes and tires. I replaced my stock 83 exhaust with a wolf to save the stock stuff in case of a crash. The wolf was slower, but worth it in my opinion. I was using the 83 risers which worked fine, although I now have a modified upper triple clamp so I can use regular bars on it. I ran into clearance issues with the 83 footpegs and now use the Raask rearsets, although I think they go by a different name now. Go with the 83 dual discs if at all possible with stainless lines. Upgrade the springs in the front, forkbrace would be nice and a racetech kit for the forks. If I remember right it was one for a rm 80 that was used because of the size of the forks. A good shock is going to cost some coin but worth it in the end. I would go for one that you can adjust the length to raise the back end of the bike up. I used larger US sized bolts to lock the removeable frame rail in to place. Big difference. Did the same on the engine mount bolts. Took some custom work on the long through bolts, but again a big difference, not just in rigidity, but in vibration. Remove as much weight as you can, not easy on a Vision.
Last but not least, don't try to save money by buying cheap leathers. You will pay for it. Ask me how I know.

Jeff

[SBVisionNZ]

Iain and I have decided to go racing in pre '82 post classic (250cc-600cc).   I'm going to assemble a new one out of parts we both have and leave my touring bike unmolested.  Since I am building from scratch, I can let my imagination go a bit wild with modifications - within reason there are some rules.

What would you do to your XZ if you were going racing ??

Looks like a spare frame plus other bits in your neck of the woods at the moment. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/auction-418242864.htm Gotta be worth at least $60!

As for mods; go for losing anything that weighs too much (has anyone tried running these without balancers?) , Flywheel from 400 is marginally lighter, 400 clutch will give a shorter gearing. Brakes are a basketcase, suspension will ned beefing up and then get the fattest tyres on the rims you can get away with.

As for "He is going to strip down his road bike (he doesn't think he's going to crash)," Yeah, right.

Have fun

[The Prophet of Doom]

Looks like a spare frame plus other bits in your neck of the woods at the moment. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/auction-418242864.htm Gotta be worth at least $60!

Thanks, I've got a bid in on that one.

[Rikugun]

Don't worry about more power right now, that can come later.

If and when you seek more power, it seems to me there was a discussion regarding a crankcase breather mod that purportedly added power. It involved disconnecting from the airbox and and using a catch bottle - which you may have to do anyway? (haven't gone through the extensive list of requirements linked earlier)

Also, treedragon had created a free flow air filter and used it in conjunction with lengthened inlet "trumpets" to good effect.

[jefferson]

That does remind me. I believe the front cam cover has a very small spigot that connects to the airbox. Replace that cam cover with a rear one which has a much larger spigot and vent them to atmosphere. It does help the power.

As far as tires go, don't go overboard on tires. You don't have enough power to require bigger ones and the bigger they are the more they weigh. The narrow rims will pinch in wider tires and mess with the handling. A 120 is plenty in the rear and a 100 does good on the front. If anyone still makes them a 100/80-18 works best on the front and makes for a much more stable platform at speed. I don't think anyone makes them anymore especially in a race compound.

Jeff

[Re-Vision]

Can you explain why the front cam cover hose spigot is of different size than the rear?  I'm guessing the smaller fitting has more vacuum.     BDC

[Rikugun]

My impression was the majority of venting goes on with the rear. The front's placement in the airbox seems to facilitate draining of any accumulated oil back into the engine.

[Tiger]

and vent them to atmosphere.

Ummmmmm, not really a good idea!!

Unless you use some sort of 'trap', e.g. a catch bottle, you will have oil vapour all over your engine, frame, pants, boots... and possibly the tire(s)/brake(s)...not good at all!!!

                      8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)

[jefferson]

Venting to a catch can, which would be required by the sanctioning body, is still venting to atmosphere. Hopefully the motor will be in good shape and there won't be much blowby.

Jeff

[The Prophet of Doom]

So my 5th XZ was delivered last night.  This one is going to be the race bike
It does need a bit of work.  There are no calipers, engine, controls, electrics - just what you can see, but I do have a LOT of spare parts.  I recon I can get 80% done without buying anything.  The coolest thing is it came with a genuine sport fairing - first I've ever seen in real life.  Missing the side vents though :-(

On the plus side the guy who sold it has a dyno, and will swap my engine scope (which I don't use) for some time on it. Woo hoo



Next weeks job is building a work stand, and stripping that frame for painting.

[The Prophet of Doom]

Everything stripped off, and ready for prepping and painting.  You can see my touring baby in the background, all strapped up so it is earthquake immune

[jefferson]

While you have the frame layed bare it would be a good time to cut off brackets and such that you won't need on a racebike. There isn't a lot of weight to be lost, but it all helps.

Jeff

[iain]

I took the full fairing off mine, and its frame work and it weighed 10.7 kgs it made a huge difference to performance and pack rack that was another 1.8 kgs .
Iain
NZ
http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc379/iaingeorge666/Picture.jpg

[fret not]

are you going to use the bike on the street in the future, or is it now a dedicated race bike?  It makes a difference in what you might remove or add.

[The Prophet of Doom]

No plans to put it back on the road, the registration requirements are fairly high, but you never know.  I'll leave it in as recoverable condition as I can.

Iain on the other hand will be riding his bike during the week, then stripping lights etc off for the weekends.

Nice looking pipes Ian, they look even better on the naked bike - all you need now is a matching sport fairing

[The Prophet of Doom]

So the bike is fully stripped to bare metal, and in the process of POR15 painting.  I went shopping the other day for a starter clutch, came back with starter clutch, lighter XZ400 flywheel, XZ400 Gearing. and my MACS arrived the other day from USA

[The Prophet of Doom]

I stripped all the paint off it with paint stripper
Wash
Marine Clean
Wash
Metal Ready
Wash
Por 15  (2 coats)
Tie Coat
Por15 Hardnose 2 Pack Orange

What a disaster - the orange is not a cool orange but almost apricot.  A huge disappointment that would no doubt get me arse raped if I rode it around dodgy parts of town with my leather pants.  A quick sand and covered it in Por15 Blackcote.  Blackcote is pretty cool.  It's self leveling paint so no brush marks, and is fairly glossy but it does dimple, and runs easily.  It dulls up when sanded, but seems pretty tough.

Some things I need for my race bike...so if you have any of these let me know
.Clutch cable
.Fork brace
.Tapered head bearings
.Stainless brake lines
.Stator

[Rikugun]

The frame is looking good! When is the first event and will you be ready in time?

[The Prophet of Doom]

I think we've missed this season, it will be winter before the bike  is done, so aiming for October

[Re-Vision]

I can come up with a used clutch cable, stator, new tapered head bearings (Pyramid). I too would like a Fork Brace and Stainless Steel Brake Lines. Can post pictures if you like.     BDC