Charging system conversations with Electrex

[Dave T.]

I just got my Rick's stator in and fired it up. I put my hand on the R/R as it was warming up and it warmed up quickly. In 5 minutes, it didn't get hot enough so I couldn't keep my hand on it though. Proably 130 degrees or so. I would think if it wasn't sinking enough heat away that it would fail. I'm thinking of putting a 12VDC CPU cooling fan on it. Maybe it will help the stator?? The components may be changing characteristics as they heat up, but not to the failing point in the R/R.

Another tip. The last stator cover gasket I got from Yamaha came with the white cardboard beside it to keep it's shape. I traced the gasket onto it, cut it out and used a leather hole punch to "knock out" the holes. Then I bought ($5) 1/16" gasket material, traced my "template" onto the material (after cutting a piece and flattening it out for 3 days!) cut it out and punched it. No oil leaks so far!

[Humber]

Relocate your R/R... I experience the same in stock location.... was damn hot to touch...

[Lucky]

it would be better to see something starting to fail and shut down before it all goes.

I have a voltmeter on mine, And did watch the volts drop over a period of time, but what good would have come fromshut it down?  are you somehow saying that shutting it down would prevent it from failing altogether?  I doubt it, once it's begun it's decline, I think it's toast, pardon the pun...

[George R. Young]

I had the Vision rotor bolt drilled to try to emulate this. The bolt drawing is at
http://www.ncf.carleton.ca/~ag136/bolt.jpg
The stator failed anyway.

More bits?:
      I remember when the first Ventures came out,they fried stators left and right. I believe the fix from Yamaha was to drill a larger passage or replace one of the oil passage bolts with one with a larger passage. The idea was to flow a higher volume of oil and ultimately keep the stator cooler.
      Ken S.      

[Rick G]

If you catch it as soon as it starts AND its the R/R ,thats the problem, you could conceivably  save the stator. If its the stator that caused the problem , it won't help.

[Rick G]

I had a R/R fail back in MN . I had just left the house , so i turned around and went straight back and changed it . I rode the bike with the stator for another 3 1/2 years.

[Walt_M.]

The CPU fan I put on my R/R in July is still running, still no R/R problems in the stock location. I did space the fan about 1/2 inch from the R/R so, if the fan fails, the R/R will still get air.

[RussD]

I had a R/R fail back in MN . I had just left the house , so i turned around and went straight back and changed it . I rode the bike with the stator for another 3 1/2 years.

And refresh my memory please........What are the signs that you're r/r is going? In other words Rick.....What tipped you off to turn around & head for home?

[Rick G]

The Volt meter i had installed on the bike suddenly went to 16 volts . It was pegged!  All you have to do is install a15,00 volt meter from the auto parts store.

[Dave T.]

I don't believe the stator puts out 50-100VAC. I put my DVM across 2 of the 3 leads (open) and got as little as 9VAC, with 17VAC being the most. Of course this is RMS voltage, not P-P voltage.

I have to eat my words here. I performed this test with the 3 stator output wires connected to the R/R. You are supposed to get 50VAC @ 5000 rpm's or above with the stator output DISCONNECTED from the R/R according to electrex. I just ran the test with my Rick's stator and got 75VAC @ 5000 rpm's across 2 of the 3 leads.

The voltage drops considerably with the load on the stator.

[Rick G]

Your right DT  the range IS 50 to 75 VAC