Acellerator nozzle problem

[Kiwi]

Ok,I'm experiancing a really bad stumble.  Most likely because the front acellerator nozzle ( the brass thing that shots gas when you twist the throttle ) is not shooting much gas.
The back one looks good, the front one dribbles and seems to have a lot less gas coming out.
I just cleaned the carbs once with carb cleaner and an air compressor, and then did it again soaking them in pine sol over night ( which made them look way nicer ).
Any suggestions on fixing this front nozzle?
I tried removing it, but it seems to be pretty well stuck.
Thanks !

[QBS]

If I remember correctly, the front carbs' nozzle if fed via a small hose from the rear carb where the accelerator pump actually lives.  Check that hose for output at its' front carb connection.  If it shows good volume and pressure (which I suspect it will), the problem will probably be a clogged nozzle.  Fix is to ream the nozzle out with the bristle of a steel brush.  I think the nozzle is a press fit.

[Lucky]

to get the nozzle out, clamp it tight with a big pair of vice grips (you won't crush it) twist it back and forth a bit, then back & fourth & up. it'll come out.  there is a chrome bearing & a brass weight under it. don't lose them....

Next go to your wifes/girlfriends/S/O's sewing kit & steal the little tin needle threader thingie that has a fine wire on it. clip this wire off one side only so you can use the rest for a handle.  use this wire to clean out the business end of the nozzle, spray it out with carb cleaner after that.

Clean up the ball check, weight & passage as needed.  reassemble in the same maner as removal.  you might have to file the top/sides of the nozzle a bit to get it to fit into the carb top if it got too messed up, but again, you won't hurt it.

--Lucky

[dpequip]

Lucky is right on the mark.  Big vise grips will get it out.  The final step though when you put it back together is to make sure the nozzle is spraying fuel between the throttle plate and the carb bore wall.  Check you other carb too as this was a common problem from the factory when these bikes were new.  This is a big deal as many stumbling problems result from spraying fuel on the throttle plate or carb wall. You can bend or twist the accelerator nozzle slightly to get the spray aimed correctly.

[Cdnlouie]

I have also used a propane torch on the carburetor body to heat the aluminum to expand and release the nozzle so you don't tear it up with the twisting. A little heat makes it slide out a lot easier. It can also break up the oxidation with heating and cooling and a spray of penetrant. Remember penetrant burns too!

Please make sure that you don't have fuel in the carbs or other combustible material around when you do it. Blow out any combustibles before using the torch. This is best done with the carb top off so there are no places for fumes to accumulate.

[Rick G]

I use a small piece of multi strand copper wire to clean them . use a can of carb cleaner to check the results. IE: hold the nozzle into the body of the nozzle holder and observe the pattern of the spray.
I don't recommend  using a torch tip cleaner or pin drill to clear the orifice as this can enlarge  the opening.

[QBS]

A heat gun may provide a lower probability of turning unburned hydrocarbons into burned hydrocarbons.

[Cdnlouie]

I do the same Rick with the copper wire (safer on the delicate copper nozzle) and bench test of the nozzle. You have to really look around to find one small enough  ???, but several sources have been mentioned.

If you do up a few pieces of adaptive rubber/plastic hoses, downsized to mate with the aerosol spray tube (I sometimes use silicone spray to avoid the caustic cleaners), you can pressurize the nozzle and check for proper spray pattern and avoid getting your plastic glasses, or eyes burnt  :o.  You know how I know about this  ::).

[jasonm.]

word the the wise. if you replace the accel pump hose. use ONLY Oregon fuel hose. Which chaisaws use. This is a "poly/plastic" type greenish color . Available at better power equipment shops.  1/8" size.  This will not oxidize and internally decay like rubber. Thus lessen the chance of clogging. Also, some "good cleaning" can free up otherwise "resting bits....that find their way somewhere to clog up orifaces. It happened to me...resulted in a clogged pilot jet.

[Rick G]

The hose I use is gas proof , it too is a poly/ plastic hose in a blue green colour . i believe it is sourced from Parts unlimited, through your local dealer.

[jasonm.]

the blue stuff is also good. Just never seen it 1/8" i.d. size.

[Rick G]

I've bought it locally here in Kingman. I will send some to any one who asks . Cost plus shipping.