Accelerator Pump Issue

[munkyfistfight]

I pulled the carbs today. I haven't ridden the bike in about a month, but last time I rode it everything ran perfectly. No stumble. Not a thing wrong with it.

I noticed this when I pulled them off today and was draining the gas from the bowls. I thought I'd flick the throttle a couple of times to get anything else out. This is the rear carb. There are tiny bubbles and slight hissing sound when the accelerator pump is activated. Bad gasket maybe?

[Re-Vision]

I would think that you may have been pumping air and fuel because the carbs were getting low on fuel. I would check it again when the carbs are full of gas. Make sure the nozzle is seated well and the hose that runs to the front is not cracked. This is from someone who doesn't know much about carbs but at least I'm part of the majority.     BDC

[munkyfistfight]

Thanks. I'm going to tear them apart anyways this Winter. The bubbles were coming out the side from under the top part of the carb, so I guess I'll start there.

[Lucky]

either the carb body is cracked, the turrent isn't fully seated, or the "L" shaped part of the nozzle (tube) needs to be resoldered..

pull the carb top & gasket out & you should be able to better see where it's comming from.  you don't need them on to operate the accel's.  just leave the front & rear carbs connected by the hose, & have fuel in the rear carb.  put a can or towel under the carbs.  you can do this on the bike two if your careful

[Rikugun]

I'd have to go with Lucky's assessment on this one. If I'm looking at the picture correctly there wouldn't be bubbles where there are unless the soldered joint has failed or the entire nozzle is loose in the carb body. A cracked carb body is possible  :(  but for your sake I hope it's not that.

[munkyfistfight]

Thanks! I'll take all of this into consideration when I go to take them apart. I'm leaning more toward the nozzle being the issue. Is soldering it a complicated process? I'm going to check the seat of it first and then go from there.

[QBS]

If not solder, perhaps J-B Weld?

[Lucky]

you need decent soldering skills & a small table torch. an electric soldering gun isn't going to do it...  all else fails i'll send you a nozzle..

[Cdnlouie]

Yes some good soldering skill is required. If you're a newbie to soldering I'd recommend sending the nozzle to Lucky and have him do it (I'll do it for you but cost you a bit more in postage). If you want to try it you must have a small (better for control) torch focusing your heat on the brass base first (as it is the most dense and the larger heat sink). Have the smallest size acid core solder you can get so that you can add just a bit of solder. it has solder in the joint already that will melt and join with a just bit more to seal the deal. You don't want too much solder nor too much heat, watch for the old solder to melt and as soon as it does add you new and back off immediately  :o with the torch, that should do it.

If you can't do it in one pass, don't do it.  Going back again and again or overheating the joint will just make it less likely to seal.  Clean up the brass and copper with a wire brush so it is sparkling before you begin as that will give the solder a better foothold. You can clean up the solder with a file afterwards if it has a bit too much in the wrong spot (very carefully to file only the solder).

You don't want to mess these up as they are disappearing from our sight and causing us to lose a few sets of carbs. I find that the orginal solder is very weak and like to redo them so they can be adjusted easily. Many times adjusting them will break the solder as they are very fragile. Twisting them out of the carb body also breaks them if you are not very careful. I like heating the carb body before twisting them out as that gives me the best success rate.  :)

Make a wise choice!

[Lucky]

Or PM me i have used spares

[Rikugun]

I like heating the carb body before twisting them out as that gives me the best success rate

Would you recommend putting the repaired nozzle in the freezer prior to assembly and reheating the carb body? Seems like it would make for an easier installation.

[Cdnlouie]

Installation is not an issue, a simple tap and it is in place. Extraction is the challenge due to corrosion and the fact that when you grab the brass nozzle base and twist you may well contact the copper nozzle (breaking the solder or worst ruining the delicate nozzle) if the pliers or vise-grips slip, like when it doesn't move on your first try. When you twist it, the vise-grip must not slip.

You have the added complication that you can't grip the brass base too much with the vise-grips because it will deform it.  So it is a precarious balance and very heavily corroded nozzles are very nasty to remove.  Then again ones that are in good shape do remove quite nicely so it depends on what you have got. It is always a bit of a crap shoot unless you have removed them in the past and cleaned them up real nice.

This is certainly one of the trickiest parts of restoring and cleaning the Vision carbs.

[Lucky]

You have the added complication that you can't grip the brass base too much with the vise-grips because it will deform it. 

I've found that the base part is pretty beefy.  if it gets deformed, it's easy to clean up with a small flat file or ignition/needle file.  you want to make sure the top of it is flat & not mushroomed either so the carb top sits nice & flush with the gasket.

[Rick G]

I've repaired quite a few nozzles with a 100 watt  soldering gun.  having the correct flux is the answer.

[Rikugun]

Which brand do you prefer? Is it a brush-on paste?

[Rick G]

I prefer a liquid , I have to look in the shed as i cant remember the name. Its the best I've ever used.