82 vs. 83 Rear Wheel and front

[MattA]

I was wondering if the 82 and 83 wheels are the same?  Are they swappable, or are the sizings different? I am wondering about both the front and back.  (I know the brakes are dual on the 83, but can this be modified?)

Also, if they are compatable, how long does it take to swap them out?  Is it a pain?  I need a new back tire, so would this be just as easy?

Thanks

---Matt

[Walt_M.]

I believe the rim widths are the same although the '83s had a size bigger tires. A 100/90 is really as big as you should go on the front and a 120/90 on the rear. Anything bigger will run into swingarm clearance problems and front fender bracket clearance. I've run 110/90 on the front with no problem with an old Dunlop Sports Elite but the IRC 110/90 I'm running now had to be shaved a bit for clearance and I'll probably go back to a 100/90 before long.

[Rick G]

The only differance in the wheels , is the colour of the paint on them. Feel free to interchange them. I had a 120 90 on the rear and my opinion is that the 110 handles better. I also inherited a  front wheel with a 110 Metzaler M33 on it and it made it handle like a steam roller! It slowed th handleing down way too much for me.

[Humber]

Walt... not true.. 83 uses the same sizes of tires.... I have 120 AVON on the rear.. huge improvement comparing to 110...

and 100 on the front (by Dunlop) and the front is not stable , the best setup for the fron is 100/80....

I may take this option next season...

[Rick G]

Avon claims that the rear rim is to narrow for  a 120 tyre and that it  doesen't assume the correct propfile, when used on that rim.

I think  that Walt is refering to is the stock size on the 82 's in NA  which came with a 90 90 tyre, which gave handling problems..

 Jeff Swan reported that a 100 80 was an improvent on the front , although Metzler no longer makes that size in 18 inch , Bridgestone does.

[MattA]

Ok, so I am trying not to get ripped off here, so please tell me this.  It looks like I will be buying a new tire, as the old ones I have are not good enough (no tread also).  I have looked at various places online, and have found a few tires for about $70.  Is this about right?  My next question is can I put the tire on myself?  Can I get a car place to mount the tire?  I just talked with a motorcycle shop, and they said they charge $60/hr for service, and even if I bring in just the rim, they will charge me for a half hour.  Ridiculous, if you ask me.  Anyway, let me know opinions, and also specific tires that are 120/90r18 that have preformed well.  Thanks.

---Matt

[Walt_M.]

You can change the tires yourself, I do. The only problem is balancing but so far, I haven't had that much trouble with them being out of balance. Just take off the existing balance weights and, if the new tires are marked with a white or yellow spot, put that even with the valve stem. Let all the air out of the old tire, remove the valve core and break the bead loose. I put it on the floor and step(stomp) on it until it comes free. On the front, make sure the disk side is up or, for '83s support it on wood blocks so you don't bend the brake disks. Anyway, make sure to have at least 2, preferably 3 tire tools and you shouldn't have much trouble. I also use tire mounting lube. Dish washing detergent, liquid, will work in a pinch.

[Lucky]

An old milk crate works well to support the front rim & keep from bending the rotor.  also you can use a C clamp on the tire (not the rim!!) to break the bead loose.  I think 3 tire spoons are a must for this rim, & don't be surprised if they bend.  also, some shampoo bottles cut into strips can be used to protect the rim from the spoons.

[Rick G]

I use two dowidat tire irons, that I've have for 30 years, they used to come with BMW's. I also have a 18 inch double curve iron that is  a must for tubeless tires , it makes all the differance in the world . I put the wheel on a 5 gallon METAL can,  although some use a 25 gallon grease barrel . unless you want ot scar up the wheel spokes on a cast wheel ,better put some old garden hose , that is slit length ways along the top of the barrel  or can  and secured with heavy zip ties,  threaded through holes in the barrel or can. you might get away with a plastic one for one tire ,but iI'm not making any promises. You will definatly need the biggest c clamp you can get.  A car place will cause it to be FUBAR.   We get 25. to do a a loose wheel (one with no bike attached)  After you  spend half a day trying to do what they do in 1/2 hour , you might not think its so ridiculious a price!! By the way I prefer Simple green for lube , dish detergent is very alkaline and can damage the rim and cause tires not to seal after a while.

[Humber]

OK guys, that's easy for me... I pay about 2 bucks to have my tires changed and re balanced.... wonderful POland;))))

[Kenny]

    A small gotcha sometimes happens up here.
 Some Dealers & Motorcycle business's will not mount tires if you do not purchase them at their place of business.
    The highest milage I have got on a tire was on a Pirelli Mt 26 on the front That I removed as it was cupping at 32K km's     Cheers Ken

[Rick G]

I've tried several cheaper tyres and come to the following conclusions, Cheng Shins work ok, milage is reasonable (5000 to 6000 on the rear wheel)  the drawback  is that  they are 3 ply and have VERY soft sidewalls , which makes them easy to change BUT also very dangerous if they are subject to a sudden deflation . The would move than likley come off the rim and drop you.
Kenda tyres are 4 ply ,6 ply rated and have a carcas that feels like its made of wood. Their handling is only adaquite.  but they wear like iron. I rode  a leaking Kenda rear tyre 50 mioles  on mountain roads with only 15 lbs of air and   it caused no problem ( I kept speed down to 30)
 Bridgstone Spitfire I like this tyre , it sticks like glue , has a nice stiff carcass and wears very well. its a few dollars more  but worth it.
 Then the are many higher priced tyres, and i'm sure there great ,but there out of my price range . I hear great things about Avon s newer tyres .

[MattA]

Thanks for the advice.  I will look into the bridgestone tire, as well as ones that I have on my bikes.  I will make sure the shop will put on a tire if I buy it - as the one place only said they could offer me two types of tires that would fit (kinda small range).  The changing the tire sounds like a bit of work, plus I would like to have it balanced nicely, so it looks like I may need to pay the price... Anyway, thanks again...

---Matt

[Tom]

i have an 83 model with a 140 rear wheel. the guy who owned it before me had the rear extensivly modified. the rim was widened and tehre might have been mods to the swing arm but im not sure since i have never seen another vision besides one at the wrecking yard and i didnt think to take a good look at it since tehre were barely any parts on it

[RussD]

Speaking of rear tires.......dumb question, but what's the proper tire preassure in front & rear? I looked all over my rear for the recommended PSI but couldn't find it stamped on there anywhere, and I've noticed my ass end feels a little "squirly" sometimes, especially when I gun it while cornering. Not sure if the preassure is the cause, but thought it was a place to start. I believe I'm running a Metzler on the rear, in case each tire brand has different recommendations.

[h2olawyer]

The 1982 V owner's manual recommends the following cold tire pressures:
up to 198 lb load - 26 psi front, 28 psi rear
198 - 308 lb load - 28 psi front, 32 psi rear
308 - 429 lb load - 32 psi front, 40 psi rear
High speed riding - 28 psi front, 32 psi rear

I weigh about 220 lbs with my riding gear so I've been keeping mine at 28 front and 32 rear.  With the Quicksilver fairing, I'll probably bump my front to 30 psi and leave the rear at 32.  Different tires don't make a difference in suggested inflation pressures.  The pressures stamped into a tire are the maximum pressure and are not normally the same as the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation.  The inflation info is on page 21 of my little yellow factory owner's manual and should be printed somewhere in the Haynes manual as well.  I don't have mine handy at the moment for section or page.  As for the squirrley feeling on accelleration, it could be tire pressure, steering and/or swing arm bearings or the tire itself if it's getting worn down or is poorly balanced (but balance would also likely cause a vibration).  Hope this helps.

Rob

[RussD]

Thank you very much Rob! I weigh about 250, so I'll be on the higher end. I'll have to put the tire guage on there and see what I'm dealing with