Normal clutch operation questions (easy questions...)

Started by Protonus, April 16, 2012, 12:21:33 PM

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Protonus

Hi, per my other thread, I noticed when my bike was in gear, and I tried to start it, even with the clutch handle IN (engaged) the bike would sometimes try to roll forward as if the clutch wasn't IN.  I was told this was not normal by ya'll, which makes sense, based on how I know automotive clutches work - and that it was probably in need of adjustment.

Well, another thing I noticed this weekend, is that i the bike is up on the centerstand, rear wheel off the ground, and in ANY gear, the rear wheel rotates while the clutch is IN.  If I continue holding in the clutch, and then rev the bike to 4k RPM or higher, the rear wheel then stops turning and stays stopped as long as I have the clutch in, even at idle.  The moment I release the clutch and pull it back in though, it's rotating again, until what time I rev it again..  It seems like what is happening is the higher RPM allows it to start "slipping enough" that it continues to slip.  To me, it doesn't seem like it should do this either - IS THIS NORMAL - and does it seem like it's out of adjustment, or is the clutch is actually damaged?.  I want to be sure before I try and fix this, only to have the same problem again (per my new thread I'll be posting shortly, my adjuster is broken and I'll be swapping clutches from my spare parts bike).   Thanks in advance.

1982 with full '83 fairings

Rikugun

Is it just me but I always referred to the clutch as being engaged when the lever is out. Pulling the lever in disengages the clutch, no?  ??? Anywho... The first scenario you described indicates the need for an adjustment. When it's adjusted correctly however, the second scenario can occur and is normal.  If the clutch lever is pulled in and the spinning wheel can be stopped with the brake with no stalling or signs of loading up, I'd say all is normal. I think it's just the stiction of the oil between the driven and driving plates.  :)
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

QBS

Replace whatever broken adjuster you are referring to, adjust the clutch lever play/slop to about a quarter of an inch.  Declare victory.  Ride.  Ride.  Ride.  Report back here with any questions.  As advised above, a little clutch drag is normal.  What you describe sounds normal.

Protonus

That sucks.  I guess I just assumed it was abnormal, since someone also commented that the fact that the bike tried to move forward while starting it was a sign of it being out of adjustment.  Sounds like I broke my adjuster for nothing.

Anyways thanks guys. 

1982 with full '83 fairings

fret not

When a bike sits for a while the clutch plates get compressed and squeeze out the oil between them, which can make disengagement a bit "sticky" so to speak.  This effect is most noticeable after a long time sitting, like days or years. 

Rikugen is correct that the clutch is disengaged when the lever is pulled in. 

When the motor is idling the primary gears are spinning (crank gear and clutch basket), when you pull the clutch lever in (disengage) the friction is taken off the clutch plates and the center of the clutch which is on the end of the main shaft is no longer driven directly but will have some oil dragging at it.  When you let the lever out (engage the clutch) the main shaft spins as it is directly driven through the clutch.  Even when in neutral as the main shaft spins it engages gears on the counter shaft because it is a constant mesh transmission.  When you shift into a gear a gear or two slide on one shaft to engage dogs into holes in the side of another gear, or disengage dogs depending on which gear you are shifting into.  The point is there is a lot of opportunity for fluid drag from the oil even though the the clutch is disengaged or the transmission is in neutral.

Now, if you have the clutch adjusted properly and there is significant drag with the motor running, clutch disengaged, and in gear, then you may well have some warped friction plates in your clutch.
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

Protonus

Thanks for the technical explanation fret / Mike. There seemed to be a higher than normal amount of drag. I'll plan to swap the clutch for the one off the spare parts bike.

1982 with full '83 fairings

Rick G

You may not need to replace it , adjust it and ride the thing . The clutch will probably bed in and be just fine. Remember is been siting for a while.
Rick G
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there in lurks the skid demon
'82.5 Yamaha XZ550 RJ  Vision,
'90 Suzuki VX800, 1990 Suzuki DR350.
'74  XL350   Honda , 77 XL350 Honda, 78 XL350 Honda, '82 XT 200 Yamaha, '67 Yamaha YG1TK, 80cc trail bike

cvincer


EVERY morning I put it into 2nd gear, pull in the clutch lever, & push it out of the garage.  It's a bit hard at first, then gets easy ..... I

think I'm  'unsticking' those clutch plates; once outside it's into neutral, choke/press the button & away we go.  Whatever I have done,

the starter motor seems to have an easier time of it.

QBS

A very painless way to break loose a sticking clutch is to start the bike in neutral and, while on the bike, get it rolling at a walking pace (gentle slopes or pushing friends are very helpful).  With engine idling, pull in the clutch lever and shift into first gear. Give it a little gas.  Release the lever and ride off as usual.

Protonus

Quote from: Rick G on April 17, 2012, 03:05:38 AM
You may not need to replace it , adjust it and ride the thing . The clutch will probably bed in and be just fine. Remember is been siting for a while.

thing is my adjuster (The one under the little 2" cover right side) is screwed badly now per my other thread.  The little screw in the middle of it is trashed and must be replaced.  Is it possible to replace that adjuster screw without yanking the clutch anyways? I figured I'd pull the clutch out of my spare bike and look to see which is better. but if I can replace the adjuster without fully yanking it out of my primary bike, that would save some time / potential for failure.

1982 with full '83 fairings

Rick G

I believe you can remove the adjuster screw , through the inspection opening . If I can get some one to pull the bikes out of the shed, so I can get in there , I'll verify it.
Rick G
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there in lurks the skid demon
'82.5 Yamaha XZ550 RJ  Vision,
'90 Suzuki VX800, 1990 Suzuki DR350.
'74  XL350   Honda , 77 XL350 Honda, 78 XL350 Honda, '82 XT 200 Yamaha, '67 Yamaha YG1TK, 80cc trail bike

Protonus

Quote from: Rick G on April 18, 2012, 07:09:20 PM
I believe you can remove the adjuster screw , through the inspection opening . If I can get some one to pull the bikes out of the shed, so I can get in there , I'll verify it.

well i gotta pull the side cover off to get the nut and magnet out i dropped in there regardless. But if i didn't have to unbolt the clutch etc that would be nice.

1982 with full '83 fairings