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Steering Stem Bearings

Started by Dave T., October 05, 2003, 05:00:03 PM

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kiawrench

i just re did my new set of tapers, i used above listed numbers, went to bearing supply store, bought tapered set complete, fork seals and some other stuff, and still got away for under 100.00 . one of my other items was 24.00 , so i dont know what paid for bearing s,, they still dont use much for book keeping , esp on behind the counter sales ,,

   i used dry ice to cool one set up and a heat gun for paint removal to heat up neck and parts there,, it works fast and you can finish up full front rebuild in less than a day , leaving time to skip down to local pub for a pint or two .. , after putting bike away for the night . no riding after consuming  for me
keep your bike running,your beer cold ,and your passport handy.all are like money in the bank .

GAJim

so put bearing on dry ice while heating up stem?  seems contrary contracting bearing while expanded stem if problem is the bearing is too tight to go over stem  please explain for me  I am missing the picture but willing to try.

Walt_M.

They aren't heating the steering stem. They are heating the steering head on the frame, to allow the outer race of the tapered roller bearing to seat. This is beginning to sound like such a large pain in the a** that I might just keep my ball bearings. They require a little more maintenance but work well enough.
Whale oil beef hooked!

GAJim

the reason it won't seat is the fact that the tapered bearings do not slide down as far as the bearing race was on the lower triple clamp stem.  I think the sledge hammer will work but would love to have a press and do it the right way.

Rick G

Your  method of using a threaded rod will work BUT  it needs to be at least 3/4 inch and 1 inch would be better. We've tried it with  5/8 rod and it eats up the rod befor it moves it very far .
Kia,  your right about doing it in a day, but I have to install  the bearings  , new fork seals , rebuild a set of Honda 750 carbs  and change a tyre on a KZ 750 , all befor noon. No time for niceitys. just get it done. The first time my boss showded it to me  , I said it will ruin the races, but he said "there my races, do as I say". and as long as  you keep them adjusted, as they go in ,there is No problem. its just like pulling a alternator rotor in a vision , it ain't for the squeemish!
  To do it with a press, would require the bike to be disassembled , so it could be put upside down in the press, and nobody gonna pay for that either!
Rick G
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there in lurks the skid demon
'82.5 Yamaha XZ550 RJ  Vision,
'90 Suzuki VX800, 1990 Suzuki DR350.
'74  XL350   Honda , 77 XL350 Honda, 78 XL350 Honda, '82 XT 200 Yamaha, '67 Yamaha YG1TK, 80cc trail bike

GAJim

To put the tapered bearings in I would assume you had to do some kind of dis-assembly?  The press is how I saw them done at a dealers when I was a kid growing up in my dads shop, bu they did lots of fabrication so had all kinds of toys to make life easier.  Unfortunately  now a days I am am my own low budget mechanic working in my own garage in the house with little tools and money......

Kenny

Hi GAJim,
    Some help on installing Tapered Steering Bearings:  First off every one has different levels of mechanical ability, one should be aware of his level before starting.
    I am assuming you have the front end removed ie: Fairing wheels /fork tubes (& that the bike is on blocks).
   Remove the steering stem bolt from the upper triple clamp and remove the steering stem from the "Headstock" located on the front upper part of the frame.
  On the steering stem lower end you will have a race with ball bearings this race needs to be removed from the stem the tip if a flat screwdriver or other tapered tool can be used but take care not to damage the stem itself.
    Tap out the bearing races from the headstock- the bottom one is tapped from the top and the upper one tapped from the lower end. Clean both upper and lower headstock area's as the new races need to fit tightly against the ridge as the old races had been.
    Next cool the tapered (outer) race of each bearing using any method you have at your disposal ie freezer dry ice  ect.
 Heat the headstock with a hair dryer/ paintstripper/ or other save method. No need to blister paint doing this.
   With gloves on install the tapered race(with the widest part up)in the upper headstock  tap it lightly around the edge to ensure it's seated.( do not tap on the tapered surface)
   Next install the other tapered race (with the widest part facing down) in the lower headstock. check to see both are seated and not cocked.
   Cool the steering stem and warm the bearing inner race it will go onto the steering stem with the narrow part of the taper(rollers ) facing you.  Lub the lower bearing rollers with a quality grease (molybdenum disulphide) and install the steering stem into the headstock. Lub the upper bearing and install it on the steering stem (you may need to tap it lightly near the stem shaft to seat it). Once  the nut can be started you can move the bearing down by tightening it.
 Tighten the assy down until you feel some resistance when turning the stem then back it off slightly. The stem should move freely but no slop should be felt. You can now tighten the upper ring nut against the lower and start to reassemble...
    I hope this helps some I have used a similar method with success on other Visions.
           Cheers Ken    
2 XV 920rh 81
1 Red/White 83
1 Blue/White 83
Bmw R100rs 84
TDM 850  92

GAJim

With your Instructions Kenny I was able to complete this task easily.  Thank you for your very clear and helpful instructions.

Jim

Kenny

   Glad It was of some help, I'm sorry if it was a bit long winded it comes from reading to many Airbus Manuals  that have you start the job by brushing your teeth then establishing ground power!
            Have Fun Ken S.
2 XV 920rh 81
1 Red/White 83
1 Blue/White 83
Bmw R100rs 84
TDM 850  92