OIL PRESSURE LIGHT COMING ON

[coyote_killer]

The oil pressure light briefly flickers on when my bike is warm and she is just shutting down from rpm.  Like when I stop for an intersection.  Is this the sending unit or actual problems arising?

[iain]

I had a similar problem years ago with mine ,took out the sender unit ,cleaned the crud out of it with the compressor , and that fixed it.

Iain
NZ

[fret not]

Maybe. ;)

[coyote_killer]

Maybe. ;)

Hopefully actually and for my purposes the sending unit is the reason until something more serious happens.

[Rick G]

Clean it as suggested, if the condition continues , trouble is ahead. You might consider putting an oil pressure gauge on it . Lucky has this upgrade and probably is on his site.

[Lucky]

I have an oil cooler & 'live' guage installed on mine, I had a live guage on it at least a year before the cooler went in. here's what i've learned from watching the oil guage: (most of it obvious)

-hot, at idle, with the cooler, the bike has really low oil pressure, like in the range of 12psi. it was lower than that before the cooler, in the 10psi range.  at any rpm up over idle it ranges 40-60psi depending.

-a heavier(10w-40, or 20w-50) semi synth helps the idle oil pressure 2-4psi hot.

--Old oil as expected, drops your psi even further.

--K&N filters probably clean better, but ARE RESTRICTIVE (i still use them though)

--don't ever trust a sending unit for an idiot light. period.

First thing i'd do in your case, change the filter and oil, go with a heavier weight oil & see if that cures the light problem.  if you have a place to mount it, get a small Suntune or other live guage. to tap in, replace the sending unit (under the bike by the other end of the clutch cable) with a 1/8 brass elbow and a pipe to compression adapter (probably come with the kit) i'd use 1/8 copper refigerent line instead of the nylon line it comes with. if you've never cut copper line, buy a small (mini) tubing cutter & practice on a piece of extra line.  better too long than too short.

--Lucky

[coyote_killer]

I have an oil cooler & 'live' guage installed on mine, I had a live guage on it at least a year before the cooler went in. here's what i've learned from watching the oil guage: (most of it obvious)

-hot, at idle, with the cooler, the bike has really low oil pressure, like in the range of 12psi. it was lower than that before the cooler, in the 10psi range.  at any rpm up over idle it ranges 40-60psi depending.

-a heavier(10w-40, or 20w-50) semi synth helps the idle oil pressure 2-4psi hot.

--Old oil as expected, drops your psi even further.

--K&N filters probably clean better, but ARE RESTRICTIVE (i still use them though)

--don't ever trust a sending unit for an idiot light. period.

First thing i'd do in your case, change the filter and oil, go with a heavier weight oil & see if that cures the light problem.  if you have a place to mount it, get a small Suntune or other live guage. to tap in, replace the sending unit (under the bike by the other end of the clutch cable) with a 1/8 brass elbow and a pipe to compression adapter (probably come with the kit) i'd use 1/8 copper refigerent line instead of the nylon line it comes with. if you've never cut copper line, buy a small (mini) tubing cutter & practice on a piece of extra line.  better too long than too short.

--Lucky

Do the gauges come with a fitting that will screw right in where the sending unit is or do I need to alter things somehow?

[Rikugun]

From Lucky's description it sounds like he's using a "mechanical" gage movement (bourdon tube) that is fed by a pressurized oil line. Remove the OEM sending unit which has 1/8" pipe threads and replace with an elbow and compression fitting with the same thread size. The fitting may be one piece and supplied with some gage installation package or it can be easily had separately or made up with a 1/8" street elbow 1/8" male pipe to compression fitting. A good hardware store will have the parts.

[coyote_killer]

From Lucky's description it sounds like he's using a "mechanical" gage movement (bourdon tube) that is fed by a pressurized oil line. Remove the OEM sending unit which has 1/8" pipe threads and replace with an elbow fitting with the same thread size and a compression fitting on the other end to connect the gage line to. Many gages will come with this fitting as part of the installation package or it can be easily had separately at a good hardware store.

The threads should be a metric size on the V shouldn't they?  Thanks for the explanation!!!

[Rikugun]

The threads should be a metric size on the V shouldn't they?  Thanks for the explanation!!!

I've not done the mod but from his description it's 1/8".

[Lucky]

Until recently, i've understood that pipe thread was pipe thread no matter where it came from (country wise), but i've recently been told that there are minor variances in some countrys in the design parameters, but generaly they are compatable.

I used standard 1/8" components and thread tape (on the pipe thread, not the compression fittings!). not a leak years later.--Lucky

[coyote_killer]

Thanks,  I am going to install a gauge then. 

[lexx790]

I fitted a pressure gauge the similar to Lucky, it's an electrical type and uses the oil pressure switch cable to tansmit the reduced voltage for the gauge to pick up. Then divert the wire to the idiot light to the gauge.
I also used a small piece of copper pipe so I could mount the sender unit to the back of the side stand bracket.

[coyote_killer]

I fitted a pressure gauge the similar to Lucky, it's an electrical type and uses the oil pressure switch cable to tansmit the reduced voltage for the gauge to pick up. Then divert the wire to the idiot light to the gauge.
I also used a small piece of copper pipe so I could mount the sender unit to the back of the side stand bracket.

How well does the electrical gauge work?  Please give more details on how you installed it.  Thanks!!!

[QBS]

If cleaning the oil pressure sending unit doesn't help, your next step might be to replace the crankshaft oil seal in the right hand engine cover.  If this seal is failing or has failed the engine oil pressure will be dumped into the crankcase.  Unless the right side engine cover has been removed for clutch or water pump work, needing to replace it is very unusual, but nevertheless, it could be a potential source of low oil pressure.  The job isn't hard to do but is kind of a nuisance procedure.  As a conservative safety procedure, I always replace it whenever the right side engine cover comes off, period.  It's that critical.  

If all else fails, run 20/50 oil enhanced with some brand of oil treatment/thickening product.  Do whatever it takes to get oil pressure.  A long time ago I had a Yamaha dealer, who raced box stock Visions very competitively, tell me that when the oil light came on at hot idle the end was near.

[coyote_killer]

The light just flickers on dimly and is barely detectable thus far.  I am thinking it is the sending unit because I bought her new and she only has @10,000 miles on her.  Most of them have been intense miles on a road near me that is all curves but still I would be shocked if I had real engine problems this soon.

[QBS]

At that low milage, even under thrilling conditions, I would have to agree with you.  Replace the sending unit and see what happens.

[Lucky]

Auto Zone has a loaner tool program: you basicly buy the tool, use it, return it and get all your money back.  if you don't return it you own it.  We have oil pressure guages.

Test the system & know for sure instead of just guessing& just replace the sender hoping for the best....

[coyote_killer]

What does it take to get in to the oil pump screen?  I thought I might check it for blockage if I do have a pressure problem.

[jefferson]

It has been awhile, but when you pull the clutch cover to do the seal you can pull the oil pump and clean the screen at the same time. I can't remember if the clutch needs to be removed first though.

Jeff