OIL PRESSURE LIGHT COMING ON

[coyote_killer]

Can the oil pump be accessed with the engine still in the frame?  The only possible thing that could be clogging it is years ago I lost one of the rubber plugs that seal the oil flow on the cam clamps or however that's laid out.  I can't remember its been too long.  Anyway there are 4 of these plugs on each head and when I was adjusting the valves I lost one.  I don't know if it fell in the engine or not but I never found it in my shop.  Could that potentially cause any problem?

[Protonus]

The oil pressure light briefly flickers on when my bike is warm and she is just shutting down from rpm.  Like when I stop for an intersection.  Is this the sending unit or actual problems arising?

Two thoughts:
1.) What RPM is your idle at?  Perhaps your idle speed is just too low.  I've found that when my bike is fully hot, and it's hot outside too, coolant gauge nearing the upper end before red, that an idle speed below 1,200 RPM makes the oil light flicker.  Bike doesn't like to "rev up" from below 1100 rpm either... so I normally keep my idle speed about 1,200 rpm, IIRC that's the stock setting too.  Sometimes i have to fiddle with the idle speed, it's not always consistent, especially when it's VERY cold outside (below 45 F), I often have to temporarily "up" the idle speed when it's cold like that.
2.) I swapped to all LED lights on the bike.  My oil light is now LED, and turns on at a lower voltage it seems than stock.  This makes it occasionally flicker earlier/more than stock, which I like (more accurate/quicker warning).  Are you running the stock bulb?

[coyote_killer]

Yes the light only flickers on at low rpm.  I have the idle set low and the light only flickers on when the idle falls lower than static idle speed as when shutting down from rpm.  I have always had my idle set this way since the bike was new.

[Lucky]

Can the oil pump be accessed with the engine still in the frame?  The only possible thing that could be clogging it is years ago I lost one of the rubber plugs that seal the oil flow on the cam clamps or however that's laid out.  I can't remember its been too long.  Anyway there are 4 of these plugs on each head and when I was adjusting the valves I lost one.  I don't know if it fell in the engine or not but I never found it in my shop.  Could that potentially cause any problem?

It can, and the manual is quite clear about having it installed to maintain oil pressure.  I have some used ones if you need it.

[coyote_killer]

Can the oil pump be accessed with the engine still in the frame?  The only possible thing that could be clogging it is years ago I lost one of the rubber plugs that seal the oil flow on the cam clamps or however that's laid out.  I can't remember its been too long.  Anyway there are 4 of these plugs on each head and when I was adjusting the valves I lost one.  I don't know if it fell in the engine or not but I never found it in my shop.  Could that potentially cause any problem?

It can, and the manual is quite clear about having it installed to maintain oil pressure.  I have some used ones if you need it.

I replaced the plug with a new one when I lost it.  I just never found what happened to the one I lost.  I was just wondering if it had went into the engine if it could block the oil pump or anything.

[Lucky]

That should be ok, but if you or a po used silicone sealer on the engine cases or covers then you could have a lot of bits of cured silicone all over the pickup screen...

[coyote_killer]

That should be ok, but if you or a po used silicone sealer on the engine cases or covers then you could have a lot of bits of cured silicone all over the pickup screen...

I am the original owner and the engine has never had silicone used on it.  So if the plug can't cause any harm then the oil pump pickup should be ok.

[Lucky]

yep

and just noticed, i'm 200 posts away from 10,000, lol

[Rick G]

I had  a great conversation with Don Miner. Hes a retired helicopter mechanic ( that's putting it mildly)  His input on the low pressure at idle, is a plugged pump screen. He points out that the debris from the clutch , over time will build it up. On higher mileage engines , he recommends , disassembly of the oil pump and surfacing the housing to reduce side clearance on the pump rotor to improve oil pressure . Time and miles will have increased the side clearance , thus reducing oil pressure especially at idle. He also puts a washer under the spring on the pressure relief valve to boost oil pressure. All this can be done by removing the clutch cover , while the engine stays in the frame.
He has had two of three crank failures and after the last one he really dug, in to stop the problem. 
He also has had his crank reground and now has 40,000 miles on the last rebuild. He used 1987 Mazda 323, 1600 cc, rod bearings . The crank needs to be ground down something like 15 th undersize.

I have a good bottom end in my Vision and one more spare bottom end, after that I'll need to do this procedure. I'm tempted to get a crank done and put a bottom end together, while I'm still young enough to do it.LOL
In the end this is what will keep these bikes running !

[coyote_killer]

I had  a great conversation with Don Miner. Hes a retired helicopter mechanic ( that's putting it mildly)  His input on the low pressure at idle, is a plugged pump screen. He points out that the debris from the clutch , over time will build it up. On higher mileage engines , he recommends , disassembly of the oil pump and surfacing the housing to reduce side clearance on the pump rotor to improve oil pressure . Time and miles will have increased the side clearance , thus reducing oil pressure especially at idle. He also puts a washer under the spring on the pressure relief valve to boost oil pressure. All this can be done by removing the clutch cover , while the engine stays in the frame.
He has had two of three crank failures and after the last one he really dug, in to stop the problem.  
He also has had his crank reground and now has 40,000 miles on the last rebuild. He used 1987 Mazda 323, 1600 cc, rod bearings . The crank needs to be ground down something like 15 th undersize.

I have a good bottom end in my Vision and one more spare bottom end, after that I'll need to do this procedure. I'm tempted to get a crank done and put a bottom end together, while I'm still young enough to do it.LOL
In the end this is what will keep these bikes running !

I take it that undersized crank bearings aren't available for the V?  No worries for me however.  I don't ride motorcycles for transportation as riding on the street is boring where I live due to all of the arrow straight roads.  However there is one road about 10 miles from me that is all hills and curves for @ 10 miles and it is well maintained.  It's the only road worth riding on for 75 miles any direction from me.  Thus my V only has @ 10,000 miles on her.  Most of which were on the Sasakwa highway or traversing the 10 miles from my house to get to the Sasakwa highway.

However Israel could change my riding habits if they attack Iran.  $8 gas would make my V look a lot more practical.

[Rick G]

The rod bearings are colour coded , but the variations are very minor , to accommodate slight variations in manufacture . The crank journal is induction hardened and supposedly can not be reground. Don has proved this statement  to be in error. There was a Vnary from on of the Scandinavian countries who did the same procedure, to save his crank a while back.

[lexx790]

I had my crank reground over a year ago and its going fine.
The main thing is to keep your oil pressure up.

[Roddierox]

hi, Ive had my oil light coming on too. It started at tickover, but this soon stopped, now it flickers if I'm riding fast for 20-30 miles, it goes off when I ease back. I checked the oil pump screen, all clean there. It had new oil, maybe to light?
I did wonder if the oil relief valve needs attention, can it be checked/tested? I have the cluth cover off so it can be done easily. I have seen a new one on ebay, is it worth buying as not many bits in the U.K.

Also I have just done the starter clutch bolts on the flywheel, 2 loose 1 broken! But the flywheel bolt wont go back in and needs rethreading, what thread size is it, looks very fine?

Sorry about the essay!!

[PwrManDan]

Roddierox, make sure you read the stickied warning on the Tech Talk page please.  The guys stress this one a lot.

http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=4688.0

[Rikugun]

But the flywheel bolt wont go back in and needs rethreading, what thread size is it, looks very fine?

I think the bolt is 14mm but I'm unsure of the pitch. If it's the bolt (not the crankshaft threads) that are damaged it's unlikely you'll find a suitable replacement at the hardware store. That bolt is probably still available from Yamaha by part number 90105-1052-00.

90105-10152-00 for an '07 V-Star 650, $3.75 at http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/6261-yamaha-2007-v-star-650-classic-XVS65AW/assemblies/204203

[Rick G]

 Don Minor, lapped the oil pump body to compensate for wear as well as packing the pressure relief valve spring. Others have expressed  the opinion that this will not help, but its an old trick , I used in my youth and it seemed to help.