Stator Output?

[pinholenz]

Can anyone give me an idea what the XZ550 stator output is rated at 5000 rpm.? 50 VAC at what amperage? Thanks (I.e. How many watts does the R/R need to cope with? Thanks

[Re-Vision]

Someone else may be able to answer your question. I believe the key factor is that the stator outputs should be near the same for all three phases. Continuity checks on stator wires should suffice. The R/R unit should dump whatever excess current that is generated to ground. The Haynes manual says that the DC output Voltage should be 14.5 +/- 0.5 Volts @ 2000 RPM and higher.     BDC

[Rikugun]

The diagnostics section of the Yamaha manual shows the same thing but in the electrical specifications shows the alternator rating of 14V, 20A @ 3,000 RPM. Doing the math that would have the watts at 280. As Bobby said you can isolate the AC wires and check continuity but you may as well take the extra step and check output. You'll isolate the 3 stator wires and run the motor at 4-5 k and check AC volts. Amps are not relevant to that test. Fifty VAC sounds about right but may vary depending on brand and it's health.

A little context would help answer your question better i.e. are you looking to change the R/R to another brand? Typically I've seen them rated in DC amps, not watts but I may be mistaken. 

[pinholenz]

I reckoned that all R/R units designed for 3 phase input and charging to a 12 volt battery should do the same job and achieve a regulated output of 14.2- 14.5 volts. Basically 3 white or yellow stator wires in and 3 out. Negative, positive terminal via fuse and  a sensor/ switched wire (brown). With a bit of research it seems to me that any R/R with this basic configuration could be adapted to our needs once I had figured out the different colour coded wires.

So what differentiates an R/R on a 500cc or bigger bike from a 250cc scooter.?  Most cheap R/R units ($40 Chinese imports) say they are not for bikes over 400cc. Why? Is it because the Chinese don't make bikes over 400cc or because the output of the stator on a larger bike is too great for the cheap R/R import to cope.?

The context for my question is the R/R from a RZ350 has the same dimensions and configuration as the XZ. So I had a go at fitting one. All the diodes checked out according to the Electrex chart. Ran beautifully at 14.4 volts output for 5 minutes and then leapt up to 15, then 16, then 17 volts. Quick shut down. Battery just starting to percolate! Rectifier fine. Faulty  regulator or, my stator  had blown it away.

Hence my question.  What I'm trying to figure is which alternate R/R units can I use on the XZ550 based on their capacity to cope with the stator voltagexamperage (wattage) output.

Next attempt will be a Kawasaki EX500 R/R.

[Re-Vision]

Tiger recommended this site awhile back.

http://eviltwinsbk.com/forumz/index.php?topic=276.0

You might also search under MOSFET Convert.

BDC

[fret not]

Sounds like your RR unit is fried.  Check the stator output with engine running (disconnected from RR unit).  If it checks out OK then all you need is the RR unit, and as you say, most that are suited for an electric start system (large battery) should function.  MOSFET is a real boon if you can find one. A MOSFET unit from a Honda CBR600RR from '05 and later I think, they have two pig tails like the XZ RR unit and all you have to change is the wire ends.

Also make sure your battery is well charged to begin with.

[The Prophet of Doom]

I miss my RZ :-(

The RZ has a smaller stator than the XZ - 14A@5000RPM
It uses a SH235 15Amp regulator

[fret not]

SH designation = silicon gate rectifier.  MOSFET units are identified with FH designation, as in FH008AA for example.

[Rikugun]

I reckoned that all R/R units designed for 3 phase input and charging to a 12 volt battery should do the same job...it seems to me that any R/R with this basic configuration could be adapted to our needs...

Not necessarily. I think you may be right as to why the RZ R/R got fried.  Look at page 1 of the electrical specs on the link below. It shows the RZ charging system rated at 14 amps. As stated earlier the V charging system is rated at 20 amps. You'll need to find a bike with at least a 20 amp rated charging system as a R/R donor.http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/smokeonthewater/rztech.html

Unlike cars where the alternator wattage is often given, bikes typically rate the "charging system" output and express it in terms of volts/amps. I used the 14/20 Vision numbers to calculate the Vision stator output as 280 but don't know if that's accurate or not. I couldn't find stator wattage specs but for discussion sake it's accurate enough.  Some aftermarket stators claim to be wound for higher output so that's something else to consider for anyone using such a replacement.

My brother bought a 2012 Triumph Tiger 800 and they rate the alternator output at 950 watts! Using a Vision R/R on that bike would result in a short lived bit of silicone popcorn much like you experienced with the RZ unit on the XZ.

[The Prophet of Doom]

By the time you buy two dodgy R/R units from a wrecker, you could have paid for a new stock one.  By the time you buy three dodgy R/R units from a wrecker, you could have paid for a new MOSFET one. 

Just because the diodes check out OK cold does not mean they work at temperature.  These things fail so regularly (no pun intended) that I wouldn't waste the $ and effort buying used.

[pinholenz]

Wow, doesn't the RZ350 look like an interesting bike! I haven't come across one before.

Fortunately the wrecker that I use seems happy to swap out R/R's without extra cost until I find one that works. Having stumped up for my first second hand unit over a year ago, I might as well keep using him. He's even more ignorant than I am when it comes to electrics. I didn't know how to test diodes properly until Roro sent me the additional information I needed.  Great information. Thanks to Roro and Rikugun.

With the XZ stator output of 20 amps/ 280 watts, any R/R capable of handling 280 watts and above  should do the trick. Currently I have an R/R from Kawasaki EX500. (Ninja) This has a stator output of about 17 amps (235 watts) so the Kawasaki R/R handling could be marginal. Having a digital  voltage meter on the bike gives me confidence that I will detect problems pretty quickly in the meantime. So far it seems OK and with luck it will get me through the summer while I source and convert to a Mosfet R/R. . Thanks for the info. Mosfet is definitely the way to go.