loosing power

[Guerrero]

Hello.so,the problem is,that i cant run my bike normaly.when i accelerate throttle engine just want to stop.anyway, in N or in gears.to get some speed i need to shake throttle forward backwards for atleast some movements. and i really dont know what could be the problem.i cleaned my carbs,new spark plugs,new inline filter.everithing should run fine.but it isn't it is impossible to drive normaly,because to get atleast some speed it takes soo long time,and if i try to accelerate faster,engine just loose power,and want to turn off
hope u can give me some advice.

please sorry for my bad english

[fret not]

Hello, Guerrero, where are you?  What is your native language?  I'm guessing Spanish.

There are many possible problems, leaking air at the intake boots, failed fuel pump, plugged fuel line, weak battery, leaking vacuum hose, or other problem.

some better understanding of your symptoms will help to diagnose your problem.

[QBS]

Partially blocked secondary/power circuits in one or both carbs?  Sorry to say, but sounds like your carbs just aren't clean enough to get the job done.

[Guerrero]

My battery is almost new.just changed vacuum tube to petcock.last year,i discovered that my bike did not have air flapp,so i bought it and put on.
Main problem is,that when i try to accelerate it like loose power,and start to brake with engine.( the feel is like this)and if i keep trying accelerate steady for long time,bike just stops.my carbs where cleaned at servise last year.but unfortunately this problem did not disappear.and one more strange thing,that instead of some 5 L per 100km of fuel,myne is eating some 8 or 9 l of fuel.

Im from Baltic,Latvia.sorry,again if hard to understand my language

[fret not]

My poor grasp of Spanish will not help. 

You are doing well with describing your problem. 

The carburetors are very sensitive to any residue or foreign matter in them and must be thoroughly cleaned with all passages cleared with compressed air, and a good in line fuel filter installed to keep any foreign matter out of the carburetors.  Only when the carburetors are clean can they be adjusted properly so the bike can operate normally. There are a lot of passages and holes in the carburetors and some are difficult or impossible to see but they must flow fuel and air or they don't work.

[Guerrero]

thank you,i understand.i just ordered and got from ebay,i think from U.S.A golden inline filter.and my carbs were cleaned not just by hand but with ultra sound.so they are realy clean) atleast,should be

[Rick G]

Sorry your carbs have plugged passage ways  and or air leaks. Even with  ultra sonic cleaning  (which I believe is a waste of time and I don't use it )  Cleaning Vision carbs is not easy . Some have better luck than others.

[Guerrero]

ok,and if it is like that,what should i do?is it possible to repair,not changing to new carbs?

[Rikugun]

last year,i discovered that my bike did not have air flapp,so i bought it and put on....when i try to accelerate it like loose power,...if i keep trying accelerate steady for long time,bike just stops....instead of some 5 L per 100km of fuel,myne is eating some 8 or 9 l of fuel.

Did your troubles begin right after installing the flapper?

[Guerrero]

no.trouble was before.and carbs i cleaned before i installed flap.and actually i hoped that problem is because i didnot had it installed.and now it would work,but unfortunately - no

[fret not]

Rick G is a mechanic specializing in carburetors, so read what he said about having plugged passages in your carburetors.  They need to be cleared with compressed air, and some of the passages are very small, so blow air both directions in each passage when possible.  Continue trying to clear the passages until they are clear and pass fuel and air freely.

From your description you are not getting enough fuel into the motor. 

[Guerrero]

ok,thank you.i will try that.but why my fuel usage is so big?about 8-9 L per 100 km.i think it is 30mpg US

[Walt_M.]

Are both your cylinders firing? The RPM limiter may be failed and cutting off the rear cylinder.

[Guerrero]

im sorry what does firing means?u mean working properly? dunno about RPM limiter,but on neutral and in gears rpm gos till maximum.and with that is no problems,only it takes time while it gos up there.because i cant just open throttle and fly.it will start to ,dont know how to say, gag or something

[Rikugun]

im sorry what does firing means?u mean working properly?

  Yes. 

Admittedly it's difficult to understand your symptoms accurately due to the language barrier but Walt's suggestion seems like it might fit. Plus you don't need to remove the carbs to try it! 

On the right side of the bike is an ignition module with two sets of wires going to it. The yellow and black wire can be cut to disable a feature that sometimes causes running problems.

[Guerrero]

so i just need to cut them off?yealow and black?hmm very interesting idea :)ok,i will get to my vision in a few days only,but it will be first thing,to try.thank's for advice.hope it will help and if i cut them and everithing is running good,should i just leave it like that? and if there is no change,i should probably connect tehm again?

[Tiger]

Guerrero...Do not cut the wire!!!

Remove the back cover from the gauges (speedo/tac) and disconnect the wire from there...wrap the end in electrical tape and put the cover back on.

I do believe that Rick G is on the right path... the carbs are still not completely clean and will need futher work and must be synced, once reinstalled...

                ....... TIGER ....... 

[Rikugun]

Tiger, why not cut the wire? Is it just personal preference to do the extra work of dismantling the gages? If it's a fundamental distaste for cutting the harness one might remove that wire from the multi plug and see if the symptoms go away. Still easier than pulling the carbs or dismantling the gages.

[Walt_M.]

It is easier to disconnect it at the TCI module. I prefer not to cut for 2 reasons, you may not have the right wire and it is more difficult to repair. Also, if another wire in the same run should break, you have a spare if you don't cut the Y/b.

[Rikugun]

It is easier to disconnect it at the TCI module

I agree. I also used the simplest explanation and remedy since the OP has a limited grasp of the Queens English. It also relies on little skill and only a knife or wire cutter.

you may not have the right wire and it is more difficult to repair

measure twice, cut once 

Also, if another wire in the same run should break, you have a spare if you don't cut the Y/b.

I have no argument for this one as it has the potential to be of service if the proposed scenario should arise and the same connector type was in play and was within reach.