Checklist

[The Prophet of Doom]

Off to pick up the bike tomorrow morning.  Here's my checklist of things to check / do before riding it.  Not looking for a rebuild here - just a safe reliable daily hack.  Anything missing?

Front Brakes
•   Check lever
•   Check dual front brake
•   Check smooth on, good release
•   Check not spongy / good fluid level
•   Check brake lines
•   Check rotors not warped
•   Check pad wear
•   Check brake light lights when applied
•   Check Fluid

Rear Brakes
•   Check lever
•   Check for rusted brake tensioner & bolts
•   Check smooth on, good release
•   Check wear level indicator when applied
•   Check brake light lights when applied

Clutch
•   Check lever
•   Check for free clutch
•   Check for noises
•   Check gear change

Tank
•   Check Dents
•   Check rust at lowest points
•   Check Internal for rust / lining
•   Check petcock action
•   Pressure test for leaks
•   Check Tank Cap
•   Check fuel colour – Drain and Replace
•   Check for filler material
•   Check overall paint condition

Tyres
•   Check Size 100/90-18 & 110(120)/90-18
•   Check Pressures
•   Check condition tread depth, unusual wear, wear indicators 
•   Check year codes

Frame & Overall Appearance
•   Cracks and Scratches
•   Rounded Bolts & Screws
•   Sight down centreline for obvious twists
•   Signs of crash repair.  Levers, Indicators, Panels, Paint
•   Check for signs of racing.  Safety wire holes, contained breathers, abnormal tyre wear
•   Check frame for cracks, rust & welds
•   Paint Condition
•   Steering Head Bearings
•   Mudguards secure

Seat
•   Check for tears / rips / stitching
•   Check seat stay
•   Check Boot box & strap present
•   Check toolkit present
•   Check Latches firmly
•   Check Helmet Lock
•   Check Pack Rack firm
•   Pillion handles firm
•   Check for oil filter/ air filter stickers
•   Air Filter Condition

Electrical
•   Check fusebox condition
•   Check / clean connectors - especially stator
•   Check indicators
•   HT Leads
•   HT Caps
•   Check idiot lights (oil, neutral, flasher, high Beam)
•   Meter Lights
•   Horn
•   Check Battery voltage & fluid levels
•   Check High / Low Beam
•   Check Rear Light
•   Headlamp, taillamp & indicator lenses

Suspension
•   Inspect for rust/lumps
•   Bounce & check for leaks, oil droplets, binding
•   Sight for warpage, twists
•   Check for noises

Wheels
•   Check for dents
•   Check for runout
•   Check free spinning
•   Check wheel bearings
•   Check split-pins on axles

Exhaust
•   Check for dents, rust, scrapes, holes

Other
•   Check mirrors firm
•   Check oil leaks
•   Drain oil - check for colour, metal fragments, slick, white streaks
•   Check water coolant  leaks
•   Check water coolant  level (green) in overflow
•   Check throttle freeplay, binding & snapback
•   Check throttle routing & rev while turning
•   Footrests secure
•   Hose Condition
•   Choke
•   Starting
•   Starter
•   Overflow routing (Battery, Carb Vents, Carb Overflow)
•   Overflows clear
•   Meter Functions (RPM, Speed, Temp), & Trip Reset
•   Thermo switch, Fan
•   Cracked Inlet Manifolds, Sealed Airbox
•   Flapper function (if fitted)
•   Carb Cleaner (dip if filthy), Check jet sizes
•   YICS Blow test
•   Check Vacuum hoses for leaks

Replace
•   Oil and Filter
•   Brake Fluid
•   Coolant
•   Fork Oil
•   Transmission Oil
•   Starter Clutch Bolts
•   Brake shoes and pads
•   Fuel Filter
•   Lube all cables (Throttle, Speedo, Clutch, Choke)
•   Spark Plugs (Iridium)

Adjust
•   Shims
•   Carb Sync
•   Clutch, Throttle, Brake freeplay
•   Mixtures
•   Headlight Aiming
•   Disable Rev Limiter
•   Brake and Gear lever height

Replace if Needed
•   Steering Head Bearings
•   Wheel Bearings
•   Swingarm Bearings
•   Tyres
•   Fork Brace
•   Fork Seals
•   HT Cables, Starter Cables
•   Anything noticed above

Post Starting
•   Check for blue smoke (oil burning)
•   Check for white smoke (water)
•   Check oil light goes out
•   Check idle revs
•   Check Headlight doesn't brighten on revs
•   Check for weird noises
•   Check for tappet / chain chatter
•   Check for hesitation / stumbling on throttle
•   Check side-stand cut-off (if present)
•   Check Kill Switch
•   Temp Gauge
•   Check exhaust for equal pressure, leaks
•   Check exhaust for life saving loudness
•   Check exhaust for heat on all pipes
•   Check rev change on full lock
•   > 12.9 Volts @ 2000RPM
•   < 14.8 Volts @ 4500RPM
•   Voltage Drops

Test Ride
•   Check Smooth brake action
•   Check handsoff
•   Check speedo
•   Smooth shifting, no false neutrals
•   Check gear jumping on hard throttle action (each gear)
•   Check gear jumping on engine braking
•   Check off-idle stumble
•   Cornering

Paperwork
•   Insurance
•   Registration
•   Wof

[Jimustanguitar]

That's quite the list, how much time do you expect it to take?



It's worth seeing if there's a fuel filter installed

Check the throttle cable routing to make sure that it won't rev when you turn the bars.

Check that the battery drain tube is installed. You don't want acid dripping on anything but the road.

Make sure that the trip-ometer isn't missing its reset stem.

Check the intake manifolds for cracked rubber.

Check the carb overflow ports to make sure they haven't been plugged by a genius PO.

Look to see if the rev-limiter wire has been cut at the ignition box.

Check the stator wiring for burnt connectors.

Look to see if the gauge face is cracked or lifted.

Lube the speedo cable to make it quiet.

Adjust the shift and brake levers to line up with your feet, and rotate the brake and clutch levers to line up with your hands. The dealer unpacking instructions has a good reference for the "factory" settings for these items, and tweak to your own ergo's after that.

If you take the carb apart, see if the jets are the proper factory values.


Sorry if I repeated any. I did my best to check your list for duplicates.

[Jimustanguitar]

Also check for the vacuum flapper in your airbox.

[The Prophet of Doom]

Thanks - I've updated my checklist.

It shouldn't take too long - I think having a good checklist is the key to getting it done efficiently.
I'd say a day for all the checks, another day to do the compulsory replacements (fluids, starter clutch), then whatever time it takes to do remedial work.

The bike was sold because it was not firing on one cylinder, and not charging and they couldn't resolve those issues so I know there is at least some repair work to do as well.  I have spared for all the usual culprits (stator, R/R, TCI, etc)

I'm without transport otherwise so I'd like to have it inspected and on the road within a week

[Jimustanguitar]

Missing on one cylinder could definitely be due to the rev limiter wire. It could also be carbeuration (like fuel starvation or flooding from a stuck float valve) or it could be between the ignition and the spark plugs. Check the coils and the connections to them.

[The Prophet of Doom]

Holy crap
My checklist is covered in red crosses.  This will take longer than I thought.

Steering bearings munted
Right caliper frozen
Brake lines perished
Pads, shoes beyond wear limit
Carbs need overhaul (there was more fuel in the oil than oil )
Battery 8.0v on full charge
Plugs rooted
Throttle and clutch cables beyond redemption
Tyres unusable
The list goes on and I haven't even started it to check on stator & R/R and the non firing cylinder

On the plus side the side stand seems OK

[Rikugun]

So if I'm understanding correctly you needed a form of conveyance to get on the road within a week that would be reliable. And you chose a Vision why????   ;D  :P

BTW, what happened that you suddenly find yourself without a car?

[The Prophet of Doom]

So if I'm understanding correctly you needed a form of conveyance to get on the road within a week that would be reliable. And you chose a Vision why????   ;D  :P

BTW, what happened that you suddenly find yourself without a car?

Feck, the vision is even getting bad rep from it's own fan club.

I had to sell the car because I'm unemployed and needed to pay mortgage this month :-(
With a vision I have 10 large plastic bins of parts and knowledge to buy a non-runner at 1/3 price and be confident I can get it going. 

Really though, what is so dodgy about a vision compared to other budget bikes of a similar vintage?  I've found visions to be most reliable bikes as long as some basic stuff is done to them.

[pullshocks]

As the saying goes...."Someone took the love out of it. You have to put the love back into it." .....

In this case, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reSa2ipIH8s

[The Prophet of Doom]

Been making a lot of love to my bike all day...

Cut and polished bodywork
Fitted pack rack
Replaced battery
Drained oil/fuel mixture
Replaced front tyre/bearings
Replaced rotors
Rebuilt forks / fitted progressive springs, new seals and #10 oil
Fitted rebuilt calipers / new pads / stainless steel brake lines
Greased steering head bearings
Stripped and re-built RH switch cluster - removed dodgy bar mounted starter switch
Replaced grips, cleaned and lubed throttle grip

There needs to be a special hell reserved for people who think twisting bare wires together and covering them in insulation tape is an appropriate way to modify bike electrics.

[Rikugun]

Feck, the vision is even getting bad rep from it's own fan club.  I had to sell the car because I'm unemployed and needed to pay mortgage this month :-(
With a vision I have 10 large plastic bins of parts and knowledge to buy a non-runner at 1/3 price and be confident I can get it going. 

Really though, what is so dodgy about a vision compared to other budget bikes of a similar vintage?  I've found visions to be most reliable bikes as long as some basic stuff is done to them.

Sure I'm a fan but not blind to the V's foibles!  8)  I suppose it offers about the same reliability as any other vintage bike and that's why I was thinking used Corolla or the like....  ;)

All kidding aside I'm sorry to hear about the financial mess and hope you get it sorted quickly.  We're here for ya brother :)

[pullshocks]

Impressive rate of progress.  What is even more impressive is that you had all the parts on hand!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[The Prophet of Doom]

Todays love making included:
Made a replacement flapper for the missing one out of an aluminium oil can and an old bicycle tube
Bled brakes
New Rear tyre, bearings OMFG you can't fit a 120/90 rear on an XZ400 !!! or at least won't fit with a cycleworks exhaust, I don't know about stock.  I'll keep the 120 for my good bike and have to go buy a 110/90
New brake shoes & lubed pivots
Brake bar bolt was finger tight with no split pin !!
Lubed swingarm bearings - still good from last time I did them 10 years ago
Cleaned connectors
Replaced trans fluid
Removed 2.5 rolls of gooey insulating tape and a lot of glue.  What a butcher the PO was.

Does anyone know the screw size for the trip meter knob?

So many spare parts cluttering my life, and yet still I need more - Brake pedal return spring, RH black underseat plastics, Fuse box cover so far

[The Prophet of Doom]

By the way, notice how small the intake is compared to a pre-update 550.

[Re-Vision]

The 400 flapper doesn't look as though it needs any coins glued to it. I could send you a vacuum operated flapper if you have need of one.   BDC

[The Prophet of Doom]

Thanks Bobby, I think I have one in a box somewhere. 

However I do need:
Brake pedal return spring
RH black underseat plastics (I have a red one but would rather a paint match that I can't get with a rattle can)
Fuse box cover

Trouble is that it's not just the airbox top but also a new carb top for front carb, grey air filter, new intake manifold.  Not to mention that the intake must be nearly 50% bigger on the 550 than the 400 I'd have no idea what to do with the jetting, and I'm sure it would need a larger exhaust as well

Anyways, this bike is strictly for commuting so I think I'll leave it as stock as possible.  My other bike is for experimenting on.

[Re-Vision]

I found a spring and Fuse Box Cover. Tomorrow I'll do a more thorough search for a right rear side plastic. I did find one but I think it goes on my 83.     BDC

[nzvision]

Thanks Bobby, I think I have one in a box somewhere. 

However I do need:
Brake pedal return spring
RH black underseat plastics (I have a red one but would rather a paint match that I can't get with a rattle can)
Fuse box cover

Trouble is that it's not just the airbox top but also a new carb top for front carb, grey air filter, new intake manifold.  Not to mention that the intake must be nearly 50% bigger on the 550 than the 400 I'd have no idea what to do with the jetting, and I'm sure it would need a larger exhaust as well

Anyways, this bike is strictly for commuting so I think I'll leave it as stock as possible.  My other bike is for experimenting on.

i have a fuse box cover.    i replaced the whole lot with blade fuses seems to run much better.   
let me know if u need the cover. 

[The Prophet of Doom]

The more I work on this bike the more I realise the PO was a complete dickhead.  Pommy git.

Overflows re-routed above the float bowls just cause the fuel to drain into the cylinders - it doesn't stop the problem (2 x 5x2mm o-rings for $2)
If you replace the petcock with a non-vacuum type you have to seal the vacuum port
XZ400's don't use the same jetting as a US 82 model and even then the mains were in backwards
Glue is not an adequate substitute for a carb gasket
Sellotape (Scotch tape) should not be used in wiring
Moly grease on emulsion tubes blocks the holes and stops them from working

It's amazing the bike ran at all, but unsurprising it went like a piece of crap.

Today's love making:
Carb "dip" and fix jetting screwup above
Replaced intake manifolds (used) with new gaskets
Replace missing heat shield
Disposed of dead mouse, 2 lizards and 2 birds that the kitten brought in
Lubed throttle, clutch, choke cables
Sealed and pressure tested YICS box
Replaced fuel hoses and new gold mesh fuel filter
Iridium spark plugs and "Tiger" spark plug leads that were meant to be on the other bike

This is the Moto Karma Sutra tomorrow I am going to try "The union of the monkey"

[fret not]

You will have it in good condition soon.