Got It Running...Sort of

Started by Bill, April 09, 2014, 10:24:50 PM

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Bill

I replaced stator, r/r, all fluids, removed and surface cleaned carbs (no tear down or rebuild, new NGK plugs, put in a new battery and it will now run.  Sort of.  Needs starter fluid to start, full choke, and needs to stay above 3500 rpm.  Have some Sea Foam in the new gas and I'm getting some smoke. I think it will only run with the petcock in PRI position.  Hard "hammer" sound occasionally when engaging the starter. Don't really know about the cooling yet although it overheated running in the garage in about 10 minutes.  Where should I go from here?  Feels a little overwhelming right now.  I need to get it to some form of normal running before throwing more money at it.  Any advice?  Thanks.

QBS

Miles on it?  Upgrade history (especially starter clutch)?  Fan coming on?  Think carb clean.

Bill

32,000 miles, no idea of the upgrades, had a fried stator, fan? Don't know yet. Looked very clean when I bought it.  PO told me about charging issue, said ran otherwise,  but I'm wondering what evil might lurk inside.   

Rikugun

We've all been in the overwhelmed stage. I wish I could tell you it's an easy fix but it's not. That's not to say it's impossible. Some mechanical skills, time and more than likely, money, will be required too.

From your brief description it sounds at the very least a thorough carb cleaning is in order - on the inside this time!  ;) Chemical carb dip or sonic cleaning seems to be the most effective. If you are patient and thorough (assuming they're no too far gone) compressed air and carb cleaner can work in many cases.

Did the engine "overheat" or did the needle get close to the red? Checking fan operation is easy enough but the proper air/fuel ratio may go a long way to cooler running. Clogged jets will have it running lean and hot. Remove the YICS which if installed is most likely leaking (vacuum) contributing to lean/hot run condition. Also check for leaking vacuum plugs and hoses and the rubber carb holders/manifolds.

It is also likely the starter clutch needs to be rebuilt. Both carb and starter clutch topics are well covered in the forum so spend some time and read up on it. Feel free to ask questions and don't get too overwhelmed.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

Cdnlouie

Bill, you are to be commended for your courage.  Taking on a stored bike that has passed through many hands and usually comes with a less-than-complete history on what someone else may have done to it is a great undertaking.  The normal tune-up approach will not yield the results we all hope for.  To get normal running you must start with a complete carb disassembly, preferably by someone familiar with these unique carbs.  Unless you wish to invest huge amounts of time studying the many posts and gleaning insights from those who have done so on this site; as well as, doing some trial and error yourself, you had best find someone to do your carbs.  Usually Rick G has been gracious to do so and as time permits a few other fellows might well take it on as well.  This is an act of love and affection for this bike and never more than that.  Start there and be encouraged that it will run for you as you have already proven.  You must ensure that your fuel tank has no rust because that will ruin the carbs in short order again.  Fine red sediment in the carb bowls is a sure indicator.  You can take them off easily to inspect the bowls.  Rusty tanks are a Vision killer.

Your vision can be a great bike after some TLC over a reasonable period of time.   I have had 14 years of trouble free operation since buying my Vision in 2000 with much the same issues you are describing.  Take the long look if you are up for the ride! 

The Prophet of Doom

Here's the checklist I did when I started work on my non-running XZ400.  I found working through a checklist really helped keep everything focussed. 
http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=15022.0

pinholenz

Hi there Bill, welcome to the Vision!

I brought a non-runner a couple of years ago and have just had my first trouble free summer of riding - in fact it has become my commuter.

You do need to read "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" before tackling this project. My experience is that if you can get the motor running, then you can be confident that you won't be throwing away good money doing other good stuff like tyres, batteries, brakelines, wiring harnesses caliper rebuilds and so on.

Carbs, carbs and carbs are an essential place to start, then work out from there. If you are experienced, the one thorough clean will do the job. For the rest of us it takes several goes as we get to know what we are doing,  what the bits are and grasp an idea of what is going on inside the carbs.

It took me a while to realise that the petrol cock and the petrol pump were both vacuum operated and that a leaking vacuum in the YICS would help screw it all up. After carbs, go for replacing all the vacuum lines and cap off the YICS ports at the carb boots.

Then, in my experience, make sure the fuel is clean. You may not be able to do a refurb on the tank straight away, but at the very least, fix some rare eath magnets on to a thin strong stick and go fishing for rust in the tank, especially in the bottom seams. Then, fit a good quality in line filter. For good measure I put some rare earth magnets in my filter, and one in each of my carb bowls.

Unless you live in California, most forum members swear by Berrymans for carb dip. I use a commercial car painting spray-gun cleaner. Don't dip it for more than 15-20 minutes otherwise the throttle valve seals will swell too much.

Good luck.

I get an ominous clunk if I have a weak battery and a misfire; in other words, don't assume the worst too quickly.
Only one '82.5  eXtreme Zen 550