Having trouble getting back into neutral

Started by jordancjordanc, July 21, 2014, 09:46:43 PM

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jordancjordanc


I'm having trouble getting the bike to go into neutral sometimes. I try rolling it forward and playing with the gear shifter but it doesn't seem to work. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Jordan

QBS

Neutral is located between 1st and 2nd gear.  Be sure you are in one of those two gears before looking for neutral.  Look for neutral with the bike on center stand, the engine not running.  That way you don't need to worry about whether or not the clutch is disengaging.  Turn the rear wheel back and forth while moving the shift lever with your other hand.

Rikugun

It can be a bit touchy at times. Has it always been difficult or a recent complaint?

Are you only relying on the neutral light to indicate? Is the bulb burned out?

Is it easier with the engine off than when it's running? If so maybe the clutch is out of adjustment or the plates are sticking for some reason. Has the bike sat for a long time?

If it's difficult with the engine off as well I'd think transmission issues.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

Jimustanguitar

Neutral is a tricky one. All of the other gears are easy to find because you just click the shifter all the way up or down, it's hard to go wrong. Neutral is merely a little detent between 1st and 2nd, and it's very easy to go past. You have to get used to barely touching the shifter to get it to pause in the right place between 1st and 2nd. Practice makes perfect, and every bike is a little different, so just keep at it and I'm sure you'll get used to it.

Luckily though, at the expense of your clutch hand, you won't need neutral very much on the road. You never want to shift into neutral unless you're completely stopped. As you downshift towards red lights and stop signs, don't stop after two, you really should shift all the way down into one in case the light changes or you suddenly need to get out of someone's way. Neutral is just for standing around idling for a minute, or when you're starting/stopping in a parking spot.

Rikugun

Good tips there. To expand on your safety related points, it's easier to find neutral when you're still rolling and I used to find it then roll to a stop extending my left foot to the ground as I stopped. More than once I got caught when the light suddenly changed.

I had to break myself of that habit and as Jim suggested come to a stop having worked all the way down to first. If it's a long light I'll then find neutral to save wear but otherwise just wait in 1st with the lever in.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

QBS

An additional warning: Never shift down until the bike is very well within the lower speed range of the gear being selected.  Extreme example of really bad/destructive technique:  Shifting or attempting to shift into first at 30+ mph.

Guerrero

I myself like to engine brake..Dont know,is it good for a bike,but i feel comfortable with that :o

Jimustanguitar

Quote from: Guerrero on July 22, 2014, 04:18:22 PM
I myself like to engine brake..Dont know,is it good for a bike,but i feel comfortable with that :o

I like to engine brake too. You just have to know the bike well to do it safely. If you downshift too soon, or dump the clutch too quickly, you can break loose the back tire, and that's never good.

QBS

I learned a very long time ago that it's much better/cheaper to put wear and tear on easily renewable brake componets than on valuable engines,transmissions, clutches, et. al.  Engines are made to go and brakes are made to stop.

drtaco

just to throw out some more input into the conversation on braking , there was a very interesting article in one of the cycling magazines dealing  with a program I believe it was called the 'brake light initiative' bli. suppose to be accessible on line.

fret not

As a safety concern you need to apply the brakes at least somewhat as you slow down with engine braking, otherwise your brake lights don't come on and the vehicles behind you don't know you are slowing.  This situation CAN be important for YOUR safety.  Think about it.  :angel:
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

Guerrero

Naahh, ofcorse i use brakes too,just when i brake from higher speeds and,have a lot space to brake(when i see red light in like 300m,for example) can slowliy engine brake,and little brake :)

kiawrench

have not posted in a long time , but may be able to help a bit here . I had same problem, long long ago with my first vision, problem was bad adjustment on the shift lever turnbuckle. this little item gets twisted, turned , folded spindle mutilated during many repair jobs as one goes through life with a vision. place bike on center stand, engine off, find neutral, check the turn buckle for loose feeling. you should not have to apply any effort to twist it back and forth. if it feels as if it is binding, release lock nuts ,add or subtract just enough slack to twist it freely. start bike and go from n to 1,2,3,4, and back, be sure each gear clicks solid into position . then take for test ride, should be resolved
keep your bike running,your beer cold ,and your passport handy.all are like money in the bank .