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Restoring Vision, what needs to be done?

Started by b_racuda, March 10, 2015, 07:27:07 AM

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b_racuda

Ok, then I take the whole side off and hand it to local motorshop to do the changing work.

Funny that when I asked the oil seal from local dealer they said that it is odd size and they don't have it. The same thing has happen with the wheel bearings and their seals. Yesterday I went to http://yambits.co.uk/ and they have the oil seal and the mechanical seal. The bearing is common size and that is sold in many places.

Hopefully this will solve the problem with my Vision. I have had thoughs about the thermostat earlier, but I decided to let it be as long as it has no problems. Now the thermostat is easy to change when I have to take oil and coolant out anyway.

Rikugun

QuoteFunny that when I asked the oil seal from local dealer they said that it is odd size and they don't have it.

Oh, not funny at all.  :(  Dealers tend to have parts for current models rather than those from 3+ decades ago. Even then they don't stock much anymore. Rather than tie up capitol in a large inventory, it's better to order things as the need arises. If there is a minimum order quantity for a particular part, you may end up paying for the entire quantity although receive only one part. This of course they may likely not tell you.

Since the interwebs came along I've found little reason to step foot in a dealer other than to admire the new models.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

The Prophet of Doom

It's not an odd size.  You need to go to a seal supply that works with in Metric sizes.

b_racuda


The Prophet of Doom

Oh, don't know then.  My place had it on the shelf by the hundred.  Don't remember the sizing though.  Anyway, you have one coming from Yambits so you are OK.




b_racuda

#85
Opened today this right side engine cover, I think it was the first time for this engine. The water pump impeller is not turning easily, it feels like the bearing is not ok or the gasket is not soft anymore. Well tomorrow I hand it to local shop and they change the mechanical seal, oil seal and the bearing. I change the thermostat at the same time.

When I drained the oil it looked ok. Also the coolant was normal looking. Changed the oil filter at the same time. Hopefully this water pump repair will solve the problem I am having.

Walt_M.

While you have the cover off, how does the clutch look? Thinking about wear on the fingers on the basket in particular.
Whale oil beef hooked!

b_racuda

#87
I was thinking to leave clutch untouched because it worked fine  :o

Also want to see if the bike starts to work before putting anymore money on it  :-\

QBS

A good point Walt.  I replaced my factory clutch at 72k miles.  The clutch basket fingers showed significant wear.  Also, the basket could be made to move in a wobbly fashion on what I'm thinking would be some kind of shaft. Anybody got any thoughts on that?  Seems like I heard something back in dark ages that Brit twins had a similar manifestation.  I put Barrnet clutch  plates in, and replaced 3 drive plates.  16k miles later, it still feels like new factory.  But the wobbling and worn basket fingers are worrying.

b_racuda

I just got a tip how to get my aftermarket tachometer working. In the manual it says that it should be connected to positive wire of the ignition coil but after I connected the tachometer as said it did not work. Now I heard that with similar tachometer and old Honda CB owner had similar problems, the solution was to connect it straight to pick up coils wire. Have to try that also, only problem is that which wire should I choose...

Walt_M.

You may just want to connect your tach to the other side of the coil. The TCI grounds that side which is what generates the spark.
Whale oil beef hooked!

fret not

" . . .  the basket could be made to move in a wobbly fashion"

Two things I think of here, there are some dampers between the big primary gear and the basket that allow some movement between the two parts, and the gear and basket rides on a bearing (bushing?) on the main shaft of the transmission.  It could be the bearing/bushing is worn.  Any misalignment of the gear teeth with the primary gear on the crank shaft will cause metallic particles in the oil, or worse.  Maybe your clutch needs some TLC.

I looked at a parts fiche and there is no bearing or bushing listed or pictured, so it must be part of the big primary gear.  There has to be something to act as that bearing whenever you pull the clutch lever in.
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

b_racuda

Ok, I received information today that my mechanical seal, bearing and oil seal are now changed. They told me that oil seal was in very poor shape. But I have problems with the thermostat cover, it sits so tight that I don't know how to get it off. How it is designed to be changes? Just to pull forward?

b_racuda

After soaking the thermostat cover with WD40, trying with heat etc. it still sits there. The only thing I was able accomplish was to brake it. Well yesterday I was forced to order a new thermostat cover from Ebay, hopefully it is in better shape and allows me to change the thermostat.

The shop said that my oil seal was in terrible condition, also the mechanical seal was in poor shape. There was also corrosion but after cleaning it seems to be in good working condition. I assume that some of the previous owners had used plain water or the bike has sat a long time because the parts were such a bad condition.

Rikugun

I don't recall the cover requires any special treatment to be removed. Since you found corrosion elsewhere in the system I'd guess the same thing is at play with the cover. Sorry to hear it's till fighting you. The bike doesn't seem to appreciate you are trying to help it...   :)
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

b_racuda

Got new thermostat cover and it is in good shape! It opened easily but new problem occurred. The thermostat which I bought did not fit or it is too short. It was for Toyota Corolla 1.3. There is no Yamaha NOS thermostat available in Finland so anyone know for sure what thermostat is a good replacement and can be found easily?

Rikugun

#96
I have no experience with any of these. I doubt these will look identical to the OEM but that does not necessarily mean they won't work.

Forum member vl5150 used a Nissan(?) thermostat, W0133-1634599. Note this is a 170 degree unit compared to the stock 180(?).

Lucky and/or Tiger advocated Slant 13758
https://www.amazon.com/Stant-13758-Thermostat-Degrees-Fahrenheit/dp/B000C7YQP6/185-5121894-5204161?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
Another member claimed it was not the "dead ringer" it was purported to be. He didn't say whether it just looked different or  would not fit. There are dimensions given on the linked page that may help verify compatibility.

EDIT: This isn't exactly on topic but I found where a member with an "82 European model" replaced his right hand engine cover with one from an '83 or '84 European model. His thermostat cover would not fit on the later model engine cover. He didn't elaborate but depending on the difference, it could affect fitment of some of these non OEM thermostats.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

b_racuda

Thanks for your help, the Toyota Corolla 1.3 litre engine fits fine, just forgot the rubber gasket  :-[ The Toyota thermostat has the opening temperature 82 degrees of celcius (same as original). The water pump cover which I purchased from Ebay did not fit, one bolt is in the different place. But I hammered my original and got the thermostat out. Well the thermostat cover is also little diffferent, but little bit use of Dremel and the problem solved. Got everything back together, filled coolant and oil. And it started and no leaks. I let it run until the fan started, no boiling in the reservoir.  8)

Tomorrow a little test run and then I have to get my mixtures right. Now the bike idles but is bogging when turning the gas fast. With more revs it behaves as normal. So adjustment is needed.

b_racuda

After trying To get mixtures right I admitted that something is still wrong with the carburetors. Well took them out and cleaned ones again and noticed that needle valves o-rings are not in the Best condition and also syncronisation is not ok. So my advice is that when you change the butterfly Valve seals please check the syncronization after that. Well because it was late I put everything back together, also the old old o-rings, and tried to start. It started well but the pipe between the float bowls is leaking. So I have To change that pipe and clamps and also the needle Valve o-rings. But now I feel that after changing those it may start to work again! At least the water pump and thermostat seems to work and were not leaking!

Rikugun

Making mistakes when tired is oh so easy but it sounds like you are making progress now. Keep after it!
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan