Just got XZ 550

[jefferson]

I don't know about correctly, but what has worked for me is using a small thin screwdriver to work the head of the pin away from the post by prying against the post. You may need to progress to a larger screwdriver also to completely remove the pin. I have also used a small pair of side cutters to pry the pin out the rest of the way once the head is out far enough to grab with them. It would not be advisable to try to punch the pin out from the other side.

[Single Carb Vision]

The owners manual  Section (4-3) says Gently tap the float pivot pin and remove the pin and float assembly BE CAREFUL NOT TO CLOSE THE FLOAT VALVE, WHICH IS UNDER THE FLOAT ARM. If I was familiar with posting pictures here I do that but I'm not. Good luck.

[The Prophet of Doom]

I don't like to follow the owners manual - just tapping puts strain on the very fragile legs.
I put the leg with the pin head up against a vice to support it then tap the other side of the pin with a pin drift.  Works every time.  JIS screwdriver to remove the float valve retaining screw.

[Slav91]

I sprayed the WD40 in top half of each carburator where the hose from the gas pump goes on. The rear cyl top half did make their way to the other exit inside carburator. But the front cyl top half didn't, looks like something is jammed there and gasoline can't go into front cyl carb.  I even tried compresed air but no luck.  :-X Gonna try tomorow to remove float pivot pen. Today I've  found other ball from accelerator nozzle that I lost. Also gonna make new seals for float chamber, I damage the old ones when I remove them, because i was taking emulsion jet out.  :-\ 
And one more thing the float bowl metal part in the middle that press the float needle valve does it suppose to be in line with sheet metal around him or little up? On both carb top half they are in different possition.  ???

[fret not]

Slav91, it is a bit unclear to me what you are asking, but you are so very good with photography maybe you can show a picture of what you are asking about.  This may help others when dealing with the same area.

[Slav91]

Here it is, circle in blue. :D

[The Prophet of Doom]

That tab circled in blue is how you adjust the floats so the fuel level is correct in the bowl.  Floats are all a bit different so there is no set angle for it to be on.
When the carb is assembled, you need to fill it with fuel, attach a clear hose to the overflow pointing upwards and then open the drain screws to check the level.  The procedure for this is in the service  manual. 


Actually the manual lists TWO ways to check.  One is measuring the float distance from the carb top when inverted like in your picture.  This is just a rough check.  The only way to do it properly is the height of the fuel as described above.


If you don't have a service manual, download one from this thread .  I'm guessing for Serbia, but think your bike is an 11U model so download the manual XZ550 (11U) Service Manual EN,FR,DE   The US models have some differences not seen in the rest of the world.

[Single Carb Vision]

Do you or don't you like the Manual? You statements seem to be conflicting.

[Slav91]

Today I got float bowls out of each carburator.
I grinded smaller part of the pin with power grinder and putted the carb top in vise clamps and kick the pin out, and later just got the bigger part of pin with hand clamps and get them out.

Weird part is that nothing was there to block gas way in front cylinder top. Its weird because I didn't have air flow nor WD40 through them :-\ Anyway I'm gonna buy new seals for them also, they look old and kinda like plastic. About the needle valve everything look fine, they don't look like they are damaged.
Thank you guys for the advice.  :D




I also notice this in difference bettwen two carbs, in one carb there is this bras ball and in another there is nothing there just hole? Is that how it suppose to be?  ???




@ProphetOfDoom 
I think I have service manual printed, it's somewhere in garage, gotta check it.   ???

[Single Carb Vision]

Slaz, you might want to avoid all of the problems of the stock carburetors by changing over to a single carburetor. You'll need to make an intake manifold like you see in the picture by my name. It is just aluminum tubing in a "Y" shape. The bottom of the manifold goes to the rubber couplings that are currently at the heads and the top one goes to a single carburetor you can find that will fit in the space you have available and will supply enough fuel for operation. It might be a much easier way for you to proceed.

[Single Carb Vision]

Sorry about misspelling your name.

[Slav91]

Yeah I was thinking the same, but not sure from what bike should I use it. Even if I loose HP ( and i don't have any at the moment   :D ) this bike is in bobber style, it doesn't have to be fast like original one. But I want to start the bike first, then if I have problems with carbs I will see to change them to single one.  And about the name, no problem. :D

[Single Carb Vision]

You're already having the problems! Getting tubing welded to make an intake manifold should not cost too much. You might also need a 90 degree elbow for the top of the manifold to attach a slide carburetor to it. Then just go to a junk yard and grab the cheapest carburetor/s you can find and try a few out. Once you have the manifold you can try anything available. I've never pulled the tank off of mine since it was done so I'm not sure exactly what is there or I would tell you. I'll try and get some more info for you from the shop that did my work.

[Re-Vision]

Why don't you pull the tank and see what carb you have? I'll send instructions if you need them.      BDC

[Single Carb Vision]

Because I'm old and lazy. My back starts hurting pretty quickly when I start bending over to work on things. Never thought I'd make 50 and now I've made it to 71.

[fret not]

Slav 91, your photos are super! 

You might have some passage in the front carburetor body that is plugged. 

[fret not]

I looked in a set of '82 USA carbs and one carb body has a plug and the other does not.  The plug I see is flat, not dome like a ball as the one in your photo.

[Rikugun]

Slav91 and fret nut - regarding the brass ball (going from memory) I believe the carb with the ball is the rear carb which has the accelerator pump. The front carb is not machined for a pump but rather gets it's fuel via a hose from the rear carb.

[Slav91]

@Rikugun
Yeah you are right. :D

I still need to reasemble the carbs just got the o-rings two days ago.
But I wanted to check the marks on camshafts because I was in hurry last time(stupid me) So I opened the front and rear camshaft cover and putted front and later rear cyl at T marks on rotor. The rear cyl camshaft markings are all in place when i put it on "I T2". But he camshafts of front cyl, intake and exaust looks like they slip one toth.  I have one question did I place marking on rotor good on "I" mark or should I put it at "T" ? And how can I move camshafts in right place without any special tools? Thanks.




Mark on first cyl.



Exaust camshaft



Intake camshaft

[Slav91]

I have a problem with my carbs. I have clean them because front carb didn't got any fuel and now its oposite + the fuel is coming out of choke overflow of front carb. Does anyone know where the problem is? I wanted to check the gas level in bouth carbs but the carb of rear cylinder didn't have any gas. And front cylinder if full of gas.  :-\