Just got XZ 550

[Slav91]

I have detaily inspected and no its not. :D

EDIT: I have grinded those "extra" parts of sheet plate that is damaged. Putted back on rotor and the sheet metal doesn't move and the clutch works. So I don't need anything to hold the plate on place, I'm just gonna press parts sheet metal into holes on sides of the clutch that sliped. I'm just waiting for the screws to come and to get a hold of Loctite 243.

[Slav91]

I have started the bike today, and no more knocking sound, so I got starter clutch sorted out.  ;D But the rpm goes up and down, and when I push throtle a little bit more, about 3000 rpm and let go of the throtle it's slowly going down at about 1200 rpm and still it goes up and down. The bike can't start without giving it a little thortle from time to time.
Now the bike sat about two weeks so I gues that I'm gonna clean the carbs again and check for vacum leaks. The YICS box that was on it had three holes(I don't think thats factory) I opened it and my question is it worth fixing it?  ???

[pinholenz]

Hi Slav. To avoid any hassles with the YICS unit leaking, simply take it off and blank off the vacuum ports on the engine case. When the bike is running well, have a go at putting it back on to see if it makes an improvement. Many people run their 550's without a YICs for trouble free motoring.

[Jirik]

Slavko that's quite a coincidence, in the German forum www.xz550de are solving problem with YICS. One user (XZ-Ernie) is going to make more boxes for another members. I'm also still solving leaking YICS, so I'm writting him for one for me. Try it too.

http://xz550.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=705

[Slav91]

@Jirik
It is not hard to copy YICS(at least I think), I had a plan to measure YICS chambers with syringe and then transfer that luqid into some metal pipe, mark it where it ends, cut it and then weld it and leave one hole for hose.  :D

Now I have blank off the vacuum ports on the engine case for the YICS. And when I'm starting it, sometimes I can hear just one knock noise after that starting stops, true one more time and no knocks, it happens from time to time, the starter clutch is sorted out.

Started the bike couple days ago, and it works fine even throtle response is good. I have driven it out of garage. But as soon I minimise the choke the rpm goes up without touching the throtle. Now I got responce from one guy from FB.

Your pilots are clogged, it's running lean. I've often sad that after cleaning the carbs they can foul up again because actually running the bike acts like a sonic cleaner and loosens scale in the carb dipping didn't get the first time

And after  I have cleaned the carbs once again its acting the same, there was a little dirt in them.  Choke in the midle the rpm are normal when pulling the throtle. When i go on full choke the rpm goes fast down (under 1000 rpm) when I twist throtle and let it go. When I put it in gear and the choke is in the midle, the rpm goes slow down after leting the throtle with clutch on. And sometimes when I twist the throtle and hit 3k rpm it stays like that after leting the throtle, I didn't want to try it out on longer distance because I didn't want to end in some ditch near the road. :D Any idea what to  check?  :D

And I have notice that there was oil in one of the exausts, now the bike had seized pistons couple months ago, and I couldn't move it, I putted the ATF oil in both cylinders and with help of starter and third gear I got it unfreze. Is it posible that one of the ring on piston broke and thats why I got oil in the exaust? One exaust ( I think its the first cylinder) got more smoke coming out then other cyl.  ???

Now those oil holes on crankshaft covers does they have something to do with nice engine runing? I know they go to airbox but i have KN's on my carburator, don't have where to put them up.

[Walt_M.]

Those holes are to vent crankcase pressure. There will be oil vapor coming out of these. As a suggestion you might be able to put fuel filters on them to catch the vapor.

[The Prophet of Doom]

Now those oil holes on crankshaft covers does they have something to do with nice engine runing? I know they go to airbox but i have KN's on my carburator, don't have where to put them up.

Run them into a oil catch can

[Jirik]

Slavko: I have measured that in the past and volumes are: 78-80 ml  ( http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=9982.msg140783#msg140783 )
Stainless YICS from Germany is very well produced, but it is for me too expensive. I planned make something, which will be looking as original.

[Slav91]

@ProphetOfDoom
Something like this?



@Jirik
Ah so somebody alredy got it :D thats good. :D

Any ideas why engine is acting weird?   ???
Like this one from 3:30
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQvmeFD7M9U

[The Prophet of Doom]

Something like this?

Like that, but one with a filter on the top.
The YICS is an awkward shape to reproduce nicely.  Do a search on boost bottles.  They are widely used on small 2-stroke engines and about the same capacity.
Sounds like your carbs are not synced. Have you done that with a vacuum gauge?

[Slav91]

I have just research that, and no I haven't done it. Will see to find the tool for it  or mechanic who does it. If not, then DIY is an option.  ;D Thanks for the tip! :)

[Slav91]

Hi guys.
Here are the updates. I got starter rebuild as it broke down when the buyes came to buy the bike, and they have quit because they thought the starter clutch is broke down (i checked and it stays the same as it use to be when i fix it), the truth is the batery was low and starter looked like it hasn't been touched for decades. :D
And + it stoped runing at first cylinder (dirty spark plug). The bike likes me so much it won't go to other owner.  ;D
Anyways, after that I started the bike and it runned fine with both cylinder and no smoke coming from the first one(i thought it
was the broken piston ring).
But it just stoped smoking and I don't know why. I didn't do anything on it.

Now here are the problems my XZ won't work without choke full ON or in the middle. When I turn it off it starts to get hight RPM. So my gues it doesn't get the fuel in normal way it should. And it got vacum leaks. Is there anything removable under the screw that Is located on bottom of the carburetor?

After all that problem I have putted heat resistant silicon over intake boots and cleaned the carburators, and ordered new carburetor gaskets, they are 1.5 mm thin, and the one I made was 2 mm. Maybe the level of fuel isn't good enough? And after reassembly the carburetors the damn thing won't start.
It fires hard from the exaust when I get the throtle spin. So I gues it doesn't get the fuel like it should be. Altho I have cleaned the carb, every peace of it. Got problem with my emulsion tubes, can't get them out, they are stucked but I found solution for it browsing the forum, gonna try it tomorow.  And I have problem with my jets. They are 120 and 135 marks on it, and which one goes on to the top of carburetor and which ones goes into carburetor? 135 inside and 120 on top?

Sorry for to long text. Thanks in advance. :D

[fret not]

From the description you give it seems you probably have some air leaks.  Also, I would be wary of using RTV silicone on the intake boots unless the container states it is "fuel proof".

[cvincer]

Manuals for all the different models are here in ridersofvision .net


My  16R  has the following:-

  130    (Top of the carbs)        .... these are called PILOT jets

  122.5  (front)  127.5  (rear) .... these are called MAIN jets & are behind the 10mm bolt at side.

# 60    (bottom of carbs)       .... these are under the slotted screw in the bottom of the carbs.


.

[Slav91]

I got 135 and 120 jets.  120 are on top of the carburetors and 135 are main jets. Is that correct?
Slotted screws? Is that place like on the picture I posted? I can't get them out but carb cleaner and air goes on the other end. 
Whats the perfect fuel level from the gasket down? The old and new gasket are different thiknes so I think that where the starting problem Is. 

[fiat-doctor]

Yes there is something under the plug in the bottom of the carb.  That is your idle or pilot fuel jet.

You need to remove and clean them.  You may need to modify a screwdriver to do this...  It needs to fit perfectly in the slot of the jet and also pass through the hole for the plug.  Push firmly down on the screwdriver when you do this and DO NOT damage the slot in the soft brass jet or you will not get it out.

It might be a good idea to get a spare idle jet and find a screwdriver that fits the slot, then grind the blade if needed to fit the hole.

[Slav91]

Thats the problem, I did modify the screwdriver but  screwdriver place on  jets were damage at the previous owner. :( But they are not jammed, liquid passes them.

[Walt_M.]

You have to get the brass jets out. There will be dirt in the passages behind them and it will block things up later. You can not leave anything untouched in these carbs or they will not work right. And that is one of the reasons I did my carb swap.

[fret not]

This is a very sensitive issue, as some times the jet becomes 'locked' into the threads of the carburetor body.  I have unsuccessfully tried to remove a jet in this place, only chipped off the slot for the screwdriver and part of the jet.  The carb body is now useless as the old jet had been drilled out but the threads remain locked into the carb body.  It is impossible to put a new jet into the hole until all the old jet parts are removed, and they are not coming out.  This is why I also began making the change to the carburetors from a Yamaha YZF600R.  Maybe within the next few months I will get the parts welded and hooked up.  If I had it to do over again I would get a larger single carburetor, but the two carbs will probably give better performance.

[Slav91]

So its not just mine carbretors. These things are complicated.