center steering dead spot

[johnnyb]

Hello, should have noticed before but.....when I move the handle bar left to right and visa versa I feel a dead spot at the center point. Bearing gone or is this normal? If anyone could help that would be great, hoping for riding season to start soon so I must be ready.

Thanks

[George R. Young]

It may be an indented bearing or it may just be hardened grease, if you haven't greased them in a while.

I replaced the stock ball bearings with tapered roller bearings, but even with those, once the grease got hard, it exhibited the centering effect you describe.

So I suppose there is something to be said for this regular maintenance business.

[QBS]

JB, are the stock ball bearings still installed?

[johnnyb]

Yes I believe so, what do you recommend to be my next step. replace or repack

[QBS]

If they are indeed ball bearings, by all means replace with roller bearings.  You'll be amazed at how much more secure your V will feel and handle.  IMHO this is an area where Yamaha built the V to a price point.

[johnnyb]

If they are indeed ball bearings, by all means replace with roller bearings.  You'll be amazed at how much more secure your V will feel and handle.  IMHO this is an area where Yamaha built the V to a price point.

QBS, thanks I'll start start researching the bearing size and get them changed before spring.

[johnnyb]

If they are indeed ball bearings, by all means replace with roller bearings.  You'll be amazed at how much more secure your V will feel and handle.  IMHO this is an area where Yamaha built the V to a price point.

One more QBS, would you have a link to bearing sizes?

[QBS]

No.  Hopefully, one of our group can help out.

[George R. Young]

These guys claim compatibility
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALL-BALLS-STEERING-STEM-HEAD-NECK-BEARING-SEAL-KIT-PART-22-1015-/381517101859?fits=Model%3AVision+550|Submodel%3AXZ550R&hash=item58d430fb23:g:BwYAAOSw0JpV5HMM&vxp=mtr

[QBS]

JB, confused by the "all balls" name?

[The Prophet of Doom]

With steering bearings they come in pairs.  The outside diameter of both pairs is the same, the inside diameter is not.  Make sure you get them the right way round when installing.  They are not easy to remove without damage

[johnnyb]

With steering bearings they come in pairs.  The outside diameter of both pairs is the same, the inside diameter is not.  Make sure you get them the right way round when installing.  They are not easy to remove without damage

Thanks, heading into the Yamaha dealer tomorrow to see if they can tell me the bearing size and price

[fiat-doctor]

Johnny, not the dealer....  the bike came with loose ball bearings like a bicycle... that's all the dealer will have or know. 

You want to replace them with tapered roller bearings.... "All Balls" is a brand name... they list them for the bike...  there are others as well.  See the link above.

Steve

[johnnyb]

Johnny, not the dealer....  the bike came with loose ball bearings like a bicycle... that's all the dealer will have or know. 

You want to replace them with tapered roller bearings.... "All Balls" is a brand name... they list them for the bike...  there are others as well.  See the link above.

Steve

Thanks, yes I did order them from Canada Motorcycles. $39.99 for the set. Thanks again for all the replies and advice

[vl5150]

I just did this job on my RD350 in December. It has that stuck in the middle feeling and makes it run like the rim is bent as low speeds. I used All Balls tapered roller bearings this time as well in the past and I highly recommend going that route.

The tapered bearing will settle in so a tighten it down firmly and be prepared to come back for an adjustment once it settles in. And pack the hell out of it like a trailer bearing when installing it too.

I did my CBR 1000F a few years ago as well and had good results with All Balls.

[johnnyb]

Thanks, I just got my bearings yesterday and will be doing the change in a few weeks, here is to hoping all goes well..LOL

[fret not]

Make sure you get the right parts in the right places.  The parts can be difficult to remove without damage if you get them wrong.  Don't ask how I know, it's embarrassing.

[pinholenz]

Agreed, tapered bearings are the only way to go.

When I did this job, I found that the new bearings needed a lot of coaxing to get them to sit comfortably in the steering head. (I ruined one set!) Next time around I used a threaded length of bar about 2 feet long fitted with washers slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing shell. I then tightened the nuts at each end to pull the bearings in to the casing. Use a decent hammer on the bar to drive them home towards the end.

After re-assembly, as mentioned by others, take good care to readjust the steering head nuts for a couple of weeks as the bearings settle during riding. A proper spanner for this job is a must. Its variously known as a metric "C Spanner" or a "Hook Spanner" . You will need a 40/45mm spanner. Mine is double ended and does 38-45 mm at one end and 45-52mm at the other.

I got my tapered bearing set from "Pyramid Parts", available on Ebay.

[QBS]

IMHO a properly tightened steering head bearing will allow the handle bars to be easily moved (with the front end off the ground) with just one finger, with little to no resistance.  But not be so loose that there is fore and aft play between the steering stem and the bearings.  Under no circumstance should the handle bars offer anything more than minimal resistance to one finger turning.  The more "stiction" the steering head bearing has, the more oversteer the bike will exhibit.  Initially set the bearings up this way.  Then, after a thousand miles or so of riding, the bearings will probably tolerate being tightened up a bit more to again show just the smallest amount of turning resistance.