DE-CRAPPING THE CARB

[§pace_§uitor]

While I am in there again, would anyone care to explain any importance to the orientation of collar flange which slips inside the bore, and the set screw which seems to lock it in place?

Also, is there any rotational importance for placement of emulsion tube?

Might not mind dropping in some rare earth magnets as suggested elsewhere, if they were affordably available, have not yet investigated.

[Walt_M.]

It's a mechanical safety. You really don't want one of those screws going through the engine. When I last did mine I put a long screwdriver bit in a vise to support the screw head. It is very fiddly but you won't have to do it often.

[fret not]

For a vast assortment of magnets google K&J Magnets.

[§pace_§uitor]

Thanks a lot.  You guys are great.   ;D

[§pace_§uitor]

Today I removed petcock assembly, cleaned filter and mating surfaces, shook/rinsed out the tank over a sink.  Blackness.  Possibly of satanic origin.  ⛽

Then I plugged the hole and poured a mixture of white vinegar + filtered water down the hatch.  Shook it up every couple of hours.  Drained and rinsed, but I am not convinced.  It also left a fine film of rust residue, so I think another vinegar rinse is in orser, this time without water.

Stymied about the RESERVE tank, and how that operates....what is the best angle to tilt to drain it?

I also took some time to work on Ye Olde Dent, which happened several years ago when I whacked the tank in frustration.  Ahh...my very-first no-start.  #Nostalgia.

Anyway, I popped a large amount of it out.  I can live with it for now.

[§pace_§uitor]

Oh, boy!

She runs and rides again

...and there were only a couple of extra pieces, uh-heeYUPPP!

;D  ;D  ;D

[§pace_§uitor]

Well....she DID!!!......zzz
:-[

She started to fire up this morning but spluttered and coughed out and then quit firing.  Nearly drained the battery again, trying.

One problem I'm facing is a broken tachometer, which has never bothered me, except I'm not sure how to find 1300RPM.

Spent a while yesterday screwing back and forth with the idle adjuster.  Damn, does that thing like to rev!  Seems like even the slightest raise causes the thing to raaaaaaace high on idle before it will drop down to the actual setting.

I feel like I should have just left the floats where they were, jeep-dangiters!

[The Prophet of Doom]

You HAVE to sync your carbs with a manometer.  A bench sync only gets it so close.  It's an absolute MUST DO, and in my experience the #1 cause of hanging idle.  Also not helped by vacuum leaks or poor float bowl levels.  You have to re-sync after every mixture adjustment, then re- do your mixture till nothing changes.


1300 is too fast to adjust mixtures.  Drop your idle till it's just on the verge of dying first


PS could you please downsize your images. They are impossible to see the whole thing at once.  I reduce my iphone pics to 30% before uploading them and it works out about perfect size.

[§pace_§uitor]

Yah sorry about my giant images.  Kind of a problem, I'll see what I can do.  Blame it on the touchscreen contraption here....(those viewing on PC should be able to right click/open in new tab for better view.)  Why is everything in my life a pain in the ass?   :-\

Ok, I hear what you're saying about the synch and will construct one with a better design.  Nevertheless.....damn, how could such a crude device be more precise than the bright light test?

I miss the days when she was all right and dialed in, shiny and reliable.

Damn, I can't wait 'til I get a Kawasaki Vulcan!  8)