Restoring 82 Vision

Started by coinsrus, January 12, 2017, 12:45:46 AM

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coinsrus

Hi Everyone,

I have been reading posts and learning from you guys about Visions for a couple of years now and have never posted before.  I inherited a 82 Yamaha Vision from my father.  It hadn't ran for about 10 years.  When I started to work on it, I was only going to get it running.   But before I knew it it was all apart with just the frame on the floor.
So I decided to fix everything I found wrong.  I powder coated the frame, painted and polished all the parts.  Rebuilt the starter and forks with progressive springs.  Rebuilt the caliper.  New master cylinder.  New tires.  There were parts that were bent, broken, old and so on.  Found the best ones I could find on Ebay.  Sometimes bought new stuff.  Well after a year of working on it in my spare time, its all together and running again. Sounds pretty good to.  I have only driven it around the block a couple of times, so far.  But it seems to run pretty good.  I still need to put the faring on.  I don't want to do that till I ride it some to be sure all is ok.  I will post some pics of how it went. I just want to thank everyone at rov for all your help to get me this far.  I couldn't have done it without all of the info on this site.

fret not

Well, that is an impressive effort and result.  Congratulations!
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

coinsrus


Walt_M.

That is indeed an impressive result from what must have been some serious effort. However, you are right in not installing the fairing as I would be surprised if it runs as good as it looks. Have you checked the charging system? Have you synched the carbs? Have you cut/disconnected the rev limiter wire? Don't mean to try to discourage you after all that work but there is a lot involved in getting a Vision running and riding properly. Where are you located?
Whale oil beef hooked!

The Prophet of Doom

That's one of the shiniest we've seen.  Once you have it dialled in it will be a really nice ride.  Well done

coinsrus

#5
I did syc. the carbs.  I built a manometer out of two glass bottles and syced it that way.
I have taken it around the block a couple of times.  Runs well.  It does have a little hesitation at first but it jumps to life.  It kinda shocked me how hard it took off.  I was just taking it easy and it wasn't having any part of it.  I know now to really hang on if it you want to keep up with this thing.  It was fun and impressive. As far as the charging system goes I put in a new stator and rectifier,  from ricks I bought off of ebay.  I was running the bike in the garage and the head light was on, it had been running for about  15 min.  while i was playing with the carbs.  I shut it off for a min and went to restart it and the battery was dead.  The battery is new, and was fully charged when started.  So I might have a problem in the charging somewhere, haven,t had time check that yet.  Bike only gets a chance to be worked on when its raining.  If the sun is out I've got a fence project out side that needs to be done.
I copied the flow chart on how to diagnose the charging system. Will see where that goes.  I welcome any help with this.  Although I have had hand in mechanical things,  I have never tore down a bike before.  But I knew going in, from reading rov  that this bike was going to be a challenge.  I had a lot of trouble getting the carbs rebuilt. For which I won't go into now.  They seam to be work well now.   No I haven't yet cut the yellow wire.  Also I'm in Oroville CA.  Thanks again.

Walt_M.

I guess you really have been paying attention, a lot of guys don't. As for the charging system, even if it isn't working, the battery should be good for several hours of running. You may have gotten a bad battery, it happens.
Whale oil beef hooked!

iain

Hell that looks nice..

Iain
NZ

QBS

Thank you for your perseverance.  It's stories like yours' that inspire us all and keep the dream alive.  Your project turned out very nice indeed.  The charging issue shouldn't be too difficult to diagnose.  What was the voltage at the battery when it was running?  How many miles on the bike?  Did you upgrade the steering head bearings?  Did you reattach the starter clutch?  Did you upgrade the starter motor seal to a spring lip design?  Is the paint factory?

I learned early on in my V experiences that when one pulls the trigger on a good running V you damn well better want to be where the bike is pointed because you're fix'en to be there.

Congratulations on a job certainly well done.

coinsrus

I haven't check the voltage at the battery yet.  The bike had about 6000 thousand miles on it.  I had bought a different set of gauges with 7000 thousand miles on it, because the original one was faded.  I did put tapered roller bearings in the neck where the triple tree goes.  I rebuilt the starter, but just with new original parts.  Didn't know about the spring lip design.  It was full of oil when i took it apart.  Don't know what you mean about reattaching the starter clutch.  The tank and everything but the frame is  factory paint.  After i polished the motor I shot it with 500 degree clear ceramic paint. 

Walt_M.

The starter clutch will start making noise that sounds like a bad Rod bearing at some point. It used to be at around 25K miles but time can cause it I suspect. The fix is to remove the stator cover and pull the flywheel to expose the starter gear. There are 3 screws that hold the starter clutch that must be removed and replaced with high strength screws that must be securely loctited and peened then reassembled. I have not yet done this on my 83 with 15K original miles but I will, eventually. As for the starter seal, it will leak and fill the starter with oil in 5K miles or less. Still, you have a beautiful bike, enjoy it.
Whale oil beef hooked!

QBS

#11
The initial tell tale of inevitable V starter clutch attachment failure is a tapping sound that begins by sounding like a loose valve.  As mileage increases, the tap progresses to a light rap. At approx. 25K miles it ends up sounding like the worst rod/main bearing failure you can imagine.  The definitive diagnosis is that the sound disappears above 2500 rpm and reappears below 2500 rpm, and is worse at idle.

If left unrepaired, the starter clutch will cease to function, the starter clutch housing will crack, and the starter clutch attachment threads in the flywheel will become nonexistent.  Needless to say, all of these are really bad things.  The good news is that proactive repair will avoid them for the cost of an oil change, three bolts, a tube of Loc-Tite, and about 2.5 hours hours of labor.  And....the repair is permanent.

QBS

Another bit of easy proactive maintenence is to grease the speedometer cable carrier bushing in the base/underside of the speedometer unit.  Do your utmost to force grease into the socket that the speedo cable plugs into.  Try really hard to fill that hole.  Because the socket hole is closed ended you will fail to get any grease into the interior of the unit.  But..... in the process of trying to do so you will force a small amount of grease into the  space between the speedo cable carrier bushing and the speedo head housing that the bushing rides in.  This will insure that your speedometer will live for a very long time.

coinsrus

Finally got the charging system working.  Haven't  worked on the bike for a while.  I found that the charging system I bought from Rick's was wired wrong.  2 of the wires were in the wrong place.  So I used the old r/r and it seems to be charging fine now.
I would like to wire in a volt meter,  but don't know how to go about it. I would welcome input. 
As for the starter clutch, I think I will do that one next winter.  It doesn't have that many miles on it, and want to ride it a little before I go back into something I have already put together.  Thanks, Mark

Walt_M.

Good on you for figuring your charging problem. I agree with you on the starter clutch but I know it will have to be fixed. Better to fix it before it is too far gone. As for the voltmeter, there are several ways to do it. I soldered a second wire to the signal wire at the fuse block. This was originally for my fuel pump but I extended it to the voltmeter. I just ran the ground to a bolt on the frame. If you have a wiring diagram you may be able to run it another way but it depends on your skill level.
Whale oil beef hooked!

fiat-doctor

Another great place to grab a signal for a voltmeter is at the horn...  one side is battery voltage, the other gets a ground from the button when pushed.  Read it on here somewhere, but can't remember who to credit.
Works great,
                    Steve

Rikugun

I'd second a brown wire as a good choice. There are several branches near the front of the bike. Including the horn also check the plugs for key switch, idiot lights and speedo/tach unit.

I've been following your progress BTW. It's nice to see another Vision getting some TLC and being made road worthy.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan