#7 joins the fleet

[fiat-doctor]

Nice work, it turned out beautiful...  Hope she runs as good as she looks!

[Prophet Of Doom]

Nice work, it turned out beautiful...  Hope she runs as good as she looks!

I hope so also after all the time that's into this.  At least if it blows up I'll have a nice stash of nearly new parts.

Here's the other side so this is a good log

[kevin g]

Mr. Doom, very nice work.  I take it that the engine in the first shot, entangled with the blue and yellow hose, is the same one that looks brand new in the second photo?  If that is the case please share with us what you did to address all of the corrosion.  The engine in my bike is not nearly as bad as yours was but I want to restore it to look like yours and your experience would help.

[MikeScoot]

It's come up really nicely! Great work!

[Prophet Of Doom]

Mr. Doom, very nice work.  I take it that the engine in the first shot, entangled with the blue and yellow hose, is the same one that looks brand new in the second photo?  If that is the case please share with us what you did to address all of the corrosion.  The engine in my bike is not nearly as bad as yours was but I want to restore it to look like yours and your experience would help.

I used the best of three engines for each part - but they were all in a similar state.
Start by washing in degreaser, then hot soapy water with a stiff nylon brush.
The sand with wet 180 grit paper till there are no signs of corrosion. Then rinse with warm water and do the same with 240 taking care to sand out all of the scratches made with the 180, repeat with 400, 800, 1500
Finish with Autosol Aluminium polish.  You can get to a mirror finish using rouge and a buffing wheels, but that makes it way too shiny.
The rough cast parts, I just used degreaser and a brass brush, followed by aluminium polish.
There are plenty of tutorials on Youtube.  It takes a long time.  Up to a couple of hours per part.
It won't stay nice for long if it gets rained on without some protection.  You can clear coat, or use a protectant like sharkskin, or just be prepared to clean it after it gets rain on it.  I don't ride in the rain so not a big deal for me.

[fret not]

If I decide to strip and 'coat' my cases I think I will just sand blast them and let that be good.  It gives a rather stark appearance of some racing machines that do not spend time on things that don't make it go faster.  It is good to have a 'clean' appearance.

[Prophet Of Doom]

If I decide to strip and 'coat' my cases I think I will just sand blast them and let that be good.  It gives a rather stark appearance of some racing machines that do not spend time on things that don't make it go faster.  It is good to have a 'clean' appearance.

Sand blasting gives you a finish that is very attractive to dirt, and a greater surface area for corrosion.  OK for racers, not for street machines.

Paint would be a better option if you don't want the hassle of maintaining a shine.


Also... if you are sandblasting take a lot of care to mask off the water pump mechanical seal on the clutch side case.  One speck of sand will ruin that seal.

[Prophet Of Doom]

I'd got my frame powdered a while back ($180 !!!) so now the engine is bolted in, but still flat on the floor. 
Because nobody could afford outsourcing all the black parts to a powdercoater (not to mention we are in lockdown)  I have my own Eastwood powder gun and oven for small parts.  So far I have done:

• Engine mounts
• Handlebar Risers
• Triple tree upper and lower
• Brake Calipers
• Brake MC
• Main Stand
• Side Stand
• Grab Bar
• Seat Mounts
• Master Cylinder
• Clutch Perch
• Footpeg Assemblies
• Hose clamps
• Swingarm Caps
• Left and Right Switchgear
• Manifold Clamps

Picture is of the second batch I did today (sorry I forgot to image the first batch) - about twice that amount in total.  Used $30 of powder, some electricity and about 40 hours of prep time.

[MikeScoot]

Excellent work! I didn't realise that one could use a normal oven for 'fusing' (?)  powder coatings.

BTW; I have long been intreagued by your profile image. The tank looks to be bare or transparently coated steel. Was it simply awaiting paint or a finished item?
Also, is that a nitrous cylinder attached to the front of the  frame?

Cheers,
Mike

Ps All the best to all with all this Corona/economic meltdown business. lololol I'll be driving a ghost bus tomorrow - school bus with only one or two passengers.  All the usual students will be at home running amok and driving whoever potty. And I feel much safer that way!

[Prophet Of Doom]

Excellent work! I didn't realise that one could use a normal oven for 'fusing' (?)  powder coatings.

BTW; I have long been intreagued by your profile image. The tank looks to be bare or transparently coated steel. Was it simply awaiting paint or a finished item?
Also, is that a nitrous cylinder attached to the front of the  frame?

Cheers,
Mike

Ps All the best to all with all this Corona/economic meltdown business. lololol I'll be driving a ghost bus tomorrow - school bus with only one or two passengers.  All the usual students will be at home running amok and driving whoever potty. And I feel much safer that way!

Yes, powders cure at around 200C (400F) so well within the range of a domestic oven.  I started with a tiny toaster oven, now I have a small laboratory oven which will fit a whole 18" wheel.  Whatever you get, it's well worth replacing thermostat with a PID controller.
Even with the cheap Eastwood gun I consistently get commercial quality results at a fraction of the price.

The tank is bare steel coated in fish oil while I wait to get around to hammering out this big dent.  That means cutting an access hole for the dollies. Plan is to nickel plate, but it needs to be perfect.

Alas no, it's not nitrous, that's my DIY Radiator overflow, with an identical oil catch can on the opposite side.  I way still change my mind on those when I get back to working on that bike.

We are in full lockdown, not a bus to be seen.  Very odd it is too.

[MikeScoot]

 A whole 18" wheel? That sounds like a pretty decent oven! Probably also capable of high enough temp. for good for family size pizzas!

 Good luck with that tank. Sounds like a pretty serious operation and finishing it off with nickel plating would be a great way to go.

[iain]

Those parts are looking flash  ?

Iain
NZ

[Prophet Of Doom]

Those parts are looking flash  ?

Iain
NZ

Thanks, nothing quite as nice as a pile of freshly powdered parts.  Did you notice your rusty old main stand in there?

[MikeScoot]

  Is there nothing you won't powdercoat in that oven?
Heard of powderfinger, goldfinger and even goldmember. Aren't planning a powdermember are we?
 Good luck and stay warm. (For those on the wrong side of the equator who might not realise; we are going into the cooler seasons here down under)

[fret not]

Cooler weather is always welcome after a hot dry and combustible season.  Here in northern California I am watching the weeds grow as now is the beginning of Spring, and our warm season.  I live on a mostly tree canopied 20 acre 'ranch', about 5 acres are accessible for mowing, the remaining area is too steep and rocky to access with the mower.  But the weeds grow everywhere and provide lots of ladder fuels if a fire happens.  So preparation for our 'fire season' is in my thoughts year round.  Now that I'm retired this keeps me busier than I would like, especially because I would prefer to work in my shop and get my XZ550 on the road.  Being physically active has been a benefit for my health but now we have the COVID19 and at 75 I need to stay clear of that.  So in the mean time I 'ride' the chain saw, drag brush to the piles for chipping,  and drive the riding mower with a trailer to bring in the firewood I have cut.  I have some piles of 'rounds' to split and stack for drying so I have firewood for the coming winter.  I think I am pretty fortunate to be here and be able to manage all this. 

Please, everyone, stay safe and avoid getting sick.  Give thanks for the day, and be grateful for this Life.

[pullshocks]

POD, you are on track to equal or surpass the restoration done by Yellowjacket! a number of years ago.

One benefit of doing the full rebuild is you can get the valves adjusted with full accessibility.....

[MikeScoot]

... I 'ride' the chain saw ...

 Funny you should mention chainsaws. I used to do all the warranty work and in-house service work, among other things, for Husqvarna Australia. After years of doing that they sent me out as a rep. up and down Australia's east coast.

[Prophet Of Doom]

My swingarm bearings are in covid parcel hell, so I changed tack for this weekend's activities.

I powdered the switchgear shells, and completely cleaned and lubed all the insides so they are good as new. 

For the lettering, it's really hard to get a perfect font match, but I settled on "Stenciletta Solid" 12.5point 100%scale Expanded 2.0px.  I used Sunnyscopa film-free waterslide paper (white).  Still need to get some white paint in the Horn/Start buttons.

The waterslide making process is a little long-winded, and they aren't too easy to reposition once placed.  You can see I didn't get them on perfectly straight, and messed up the N in TURN a bit, but not bad enough to repeat the whole thing.  I do think they look better than without the lettering.

I've attached a PDF if you want to do the same.

[fiat-doctor]

Wow that looks great!   With rebuilt/cleaned/lubed internals it is better than new.  Well Done!

[kevin g]

The controls look great.  I have been wondering what to do with mine and this is a great option.  One concern I have is the wear resistance of the lettering.  Waterslide decals are very thin and easily scraped away.  In my days of building precision detailed models the decals were always over-sprayed with a clear coat.  Did you do that on these?  How tough do you think the letters are?