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YICS ports appear to be connected to each other.

Started by MikeScoot, November 24, 2019, 02:16:33 AM

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MikeScoot

Bought two XZ's yesterday over the border in Queensland. Stripped a lot off the 'A' bike today and got to work cleaning, cleaning, cleaning, grinding rust (etc etc etc) to get the frame ready for some in-situ painting. Whilst at it I noticed the YIKS ports seem to be connected to each other by a hose. Is this a common thing for people who have trashed their YIKS units? What would be the effect?

Anyway, I'm pretty happy to have bought not just one, but TWO XZ's! They are very rough, but not as bad as they could have been. Both have most parts although exhaust set-ups look like a drunken plumber did 'em. Tanks are fairly rust inside too. Oh well.

Won't even try starting either of them until we 'get aquainted' and I've serviced the carbs and front brakes.. Will probably rip the carbs off the 'A' bike and service them along with doing the front brakes.

Mike
Both Luthers had their dreams,
But I've just got one Vision.
Theirs got them into strifes,
Mine just takes me fishin'.

fret not

#1
Welcome! 
The tube connecting the ports is PROBABLY just to close them off.  The YICS canisters often leak so frequently they are simply discarded.  The tube is an easy remedy, usually we see rubber caps, but a tube would work.
Regarding your tank, you can clean and  coat the inside with various sealers but you have to be careful choosing the sealer because some are better and some are not.  Here in the States we have ethanol in almost all gasoline.  There are exceptions but for the most part we have alcohol in the gas, and the alcohol is a nasty solvent that mixes with water and attacks many many things.  You will very likely get some suggestions soon. :angel:
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

MikeScoot

Hi Fret Not.
Then that tube is nothing to worry too much about then. Thanks. I read here a couple o days ago about home-made YIKS gadgets. Might do something like that further down the track.
Yeah, we have ethanol in the cheaper fuel here too. Suggestions on gunk to treat the rusty tanks with would be great.
Plenty to keep me busy in the meantime.
I'll prepare all the appropropriate parts and get them off to be sprayed , wheels off for powder coating, grind rust off the frame and paint etc etc etc.
New battery will arrive late this week so might even see if one or both actually crank.
Cheers
Both Luthers had their dreams,
But I've just got one Vision.
Theirs got them into strifes,
Mine just takes me fishin'.

The Prophet of Doom

Congratulations - they seem pretty rare in Australia. 
I presume 16R variants?



Quote from: fret not on November 24, 2019, 02:38:52 AM
usually we see rubber caps, but a tube would work.
I'd recommend you blank off the ports individually if you don't have a well sealed YICS.  Blanking caps are only $1 or so each.  There's a bit of pressure so best to wire them on.

My #2 had a linking hose setup like this and it ran truly horribly especially at low RPMs.




injuhneer

It is interesting that the YICS is different than the 4 cylinder versions. The tube across is probably not good for low speed. Putting a restrictor in it would change the behavior.

Maybe I should use those ports for NO2.   ;D

- Mike O
1982 Yamaha XZ550RJ

MikeScoot

Yeah, it seemed like a weird thing for someone to have done. But I won't mess with it just yet - plenty of other stuff to keep me busy.

Ordered fork seals, new master cyl., battery, tank cleaner/sealant, and am negotiating a set of stock mufflers that look pretty good. Have a fair bit of the frame cleaned up and painted too. Soon it will be time to have a good look at the carbs.

The front calipers are pretty rough-looking. Any tips on cleaning 'em up and making 'em pretty again?

Also, the swing-arm really needs to come off for clean-up and a paint. PLENTY to keep me busy over the Chrissy break!

Thanks for all the replies.

@Prophet of Doom; One is an '82 (single front disk) and the other is an '83 (twin front disks). 16R rings a bell but I'm not certain. Will check in due course.

Cheers,

Mike
Both Luthers had their dreams,
But I've just got one Vision.
Theirs got them into strifes,
Mine just takes me fishin'.

fret not

That would be the beginning of your frame number (VIN).
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

The Prophet of Doom

Also the beginning of the engine number - the same number as the frame.
The reason I mention is that you are from the west island.  16Rs were marketed in Australasia/Zealandia.  It's twin disk but an 82, not an 83.


Tread carefully as information from our USA cousins is not always right for other markets

MikeScoot

Thanks POD. I noticed that last night. I think I read that there are two quite different sets of carbs on US models but only one type on ours. Is that right?
Speaking of carbs, took mine off about an hour ago. Hoses bluddy everywhere! Hope I can remember where they all go back on! lololol  lololol GREEN crap dripped out of them! But I suppose it's good that SOMETHING dripped out - even if it was a bit alien-looking.
Plan on clearing a big table to pull them apart on.
Tomorrow, between driving shifts, I'll start on cleaning and sealing the tank. Once that's done I can get moving on new paintwork.
Both Luthers had their dreams,
But I've just got one Vision.
Theirs got them into strifes,
Mine just takes me fishin'.

MikeScoot

Quote from: Prophet Of Doom on November 24, 2019, 05:56:38 AM
Congratulations - they seem pretty rare in Australia. 
I presume 16R variants?



Quote from: fret not on November 24, 2019, 02:38:52 AM
usually we see rubber caps, but a tube would work.
I'd recommend you blank off the ports individually if you don't have a well sealed YICS.  Blanking caps are only $1 or so each.  There's a bit of pressure so best to wire them on.

My #2 had a linking hose setup like this and it ran truly horribly especially at low RPMs.


Thanks. I just noticed what you wrote about the hose. I'll dice the hose and blank the ports. Cheers!
Both Luthers had their dreams,
But I've just got one Vision.
Theirs got them into strifes,
Mine just takes me fishin'.

MikeScoot

I checked the engine numbers. One is a 16R and the other is an 11H. Are engines and carbs the same does anyone know?
Cheers
Both Luthers had their dreams,
But I've just got one Vision.
Theirs got them into strifes,
Mine just takes me fishin'.

The Prophet of Doom

Don't have a parts list for 11H - Canadian 82 I think.
Probably very similar but watch out for carb jetting, wiring in particular


Best you post a picture of them








MikeScoot

Quote from: Prophet Of Doom on November 26, 2019, 05:35:06 AM
Don't have a parts list for 11H - Canadian 82 I think.
Probably very similar but watch out for carb jetting, wiring in particular


Best you post a picture of them

You sure you want pics? Might give you nightmares! Actually, the 'A' bike (the 16R) is coming along well. Have done most of the frame and cleaned up the wheels and front disks a fair bit. Have also removed a lot of evil baked-on gunk from the exhausts.
Still a long list of things to do, of course. Carbs, tank sealing, painting, swapping forks, getting short mufflers for the bodgy collectors etc etc etc. Seats are good so that's one thing that DOESN't need doing! Yay! Instuments and switchgear are also marginally acceptable. Yay! Airbox screws are stripped (drongo previous owner) so I'll need to work out a fix there but it won't be rocket science.

Busy day tomorrow but I'll try to do some photos.

Cheers,
Mike Scoot
Both Luthers had their dreams,
But I've just got one Vision.
Theirs got them into strifes,
Mine just takes me fishin'.

fret not

Both of my '82 frames start with 11H, and I assume both are USA models as I found them here ( 'Here' being in the USA.)  Both are 11H with single disc front brake.
Retired, on the downhill slide. . . . . . . . still feels like going uphill!

MikeScoot

#14
Here are some pics of the bikes before I bought them (from the fella's advert.)
The black one is the 11H and the red on is the 16R. If you click the pics they appear larger in the same page and are easier to view without scrambling for the strong specs.
Both Luthers had their dreams,
But I've just got one Vision.
Theirs got them into strifes,
Mine just takes me fishin'.

cvincer

#15
A few thoughts on your project:-


The XZ550 starter clutch should be checked as OEM the holding bolts weren't secured well enough, resulting in it coming loose & destroying the flywheel bolt holes. Take the flywheel off (it will probably 'pop' off so put something on the floor to break its fall), remove the starter clutch retaining bolts.....& if the bolt holes are ok & the clutch not cracked, replace, bolt up using Loctite & peening.     Before putting the LH side cover back on, clean the oil level sight glass.


The petcock is vacuum operated.  If it needs repair, spares are so expensive when postage from USA is added, I'd recommend buying a non-vacum petcock off ebay for $7-8 (even though the outlet will necessitate a longer hose).  Remember to cap of the vacuum take off point at the carb boot mount ..... & put in an in-line fuel filter!!


You have '82 & '83 machines which will probably have different carbs though visually similar.  Either will work but it's most important they are really really clean.  Ultrasound, compressed air, solvent if possible... petrol 'varnish' might will have choked all the little passage ways if the carbs have been stood for a long time.  Read the website re the 'Vision Stumble'.  Instructions can be found on the ROV website re making a carb balancer (manometer) for only a few $$, if you don't have one.


The  'y'  branch of exhaust is often difficult to seal where it is attached to the rear cylinder.  Use high temperature silicon sealer (red) as well as the copper rings.


The OEM position for the reg/rectifier is down in the bowels behind the rear cylinder/ & 'y' exhaust ....what a dumb place for something that's supposed to be kept cool.  Relocate to a position where it will get a flow of cool air.

The starter motor has an ordinary  'O' ring where it's pushed into the engine, but inside the nose cone is another seal that stops engine oil getting into the starter motor.  The OEM seal had a single lip; when it's necessary to renew ('cos you've found oil inside the starter motor) use a double lip seal.  Those large thin square section 'O' rings (backer rings) separating the 3 sections of the starter motor available at a decent shop for <$1 each.


Battery...here in Oz I'd recommend an  SSB Powersport   Absorbed Glass Matt RB14L-A2 putting out 310cca for A$100 from Challenge Batteries

If the fork struts are leaking oil the seal size is  35x48x8  (though I did once use a 34x48x8 to defeat a particularly persistent leak).


The brake calipers use a square section 'O' ring, which I couldn't find in my part of Australia (though now the appear to be available at wemoto.com.au)  I used instead a round section 'O' rings 221EPR & 127EPR @ $1 each without any problems.


Remember there is a single fuse in the headlamp housing (as well as the fuse box on on the back mudguard).


The silencers on the black bike were made by  'Tranzac' in Queensland.


MikeScoot

Thanks for taking the time to write such a helpful post. Lots of great info there for sure. The inside of the tank is cleaned and de-rusted now and a couple of holes (1~2mm) are sealed with araldite. Inside should be dry after blowing the shop vac into it for an hour today but I'll leave it in the sun for a couple of hours tomorrow morning before using the KSB sealant.
Then (while waiting a few days for the sealant to cure) it'll be time to service the carbs - along with a HEAP of other stuff that needs doing.

Mike
Both Luthers had their dreams,
But I've just got one Vision.
Theirs got them into strifes,
Mine just takes me fishin'.