Think I have a starter problem too

[xsive11]

All I get is click, click, click, from the starter or inside the left casing. I took the casing off and checked the gears on the starter, the "engagement" gear, and the one on the cam- all looked good.  I've already rebuilt the starter (brush assembly, all seals/o-rings).  I tore it apart again anyway.  It was covered in oil inside.  Is this a no no?  If so, how do I prevent this?  Is this whats causing it to slip/click when trying to "engage?"  Please help me out here fellas.  I've done everything to get this bike to run and I know when this problem is solved, I'll have a great running bike.

[Lucky]

if you have oil in the starter than that seal is no good. did you use a seal with a spring in the lip? the stock Yamaha's generaly do not (but I think it depends on where their regional wharehouse buys them)


I'm talking to Jason as we speak, he has extra seals and a rebuilt starter for sale
--Lucky

[jasonm.]

Yup, I have seals and a rebuilt starter. I can send you a seal for what they cost me($3.50+ postage) OR sell you a perfectly good starter. That has a new seal, turned commutator(evened out) , segments undercut and everything greased. Spins like a top. I have lowered my price to $50+ shipping. My email is jsmthefix@msn.com :)

[xsive11]

Jason and Lucky- I've checked out your websites again for info on this seal w/ spring and I still can't picture in my head were it's located. Obviously this is an internal part and not the external o-ring that is closest to the crank case. I probably just answered my own question.  Still- where inside is this thing so I can triple check it!!  If I do infact need it, you'll be the first one I buy it from!  Thx again for your help!!

[Lucky]

You do need the seal, that's a given. you have oil inside the starter.

to get to the seal you first have to remove the drive gear on the outside of the starter nose by removing the snap ring. slide the gear off the shaft, then you will see a second snap ring, remove this one also.  slide the shaft out of the bearing, and you will see the seal. follow the instructions on my page here:
http://www.geocities.com/lucky_142/starters.html to continue on.  note that the snap ring should be removed with snap ring pliers. you can get them at sears for 6 or 7 dollars.
also note that the snap rings have a flat side and a rounded side. when you put it back together, make sure the flat side is down, that is, facing away from you. you'll see what i mean when you do it.
BTW, sometimes the shaft won't slide in or out of the bearing easily. if you have this trouble, put the shaft in the freezer for half an hour and give it a shot of WD-40 before you try to put it in, alternatly, you may have to put the nose housing on a couple of 2x4's and tap it out using a soft face (plastic, not brass) mallot. be carefull, this might take a bit of work, but that bearing is pretty tough. just be sure the shaft goes in straight, not cocked.
--Lucky

[Lucky]

if the starter just clicked, then you probably will need to replace the brushes as well.  oil destroys copper/carbon alloy brushes, turns them to mush. replace them with the same type of brushes. solid copper brushes will wear out the commutator, and their harder and more expensive to find, and carbon brushes will wear out in a couple of months. Talk to Jason for more info on this.
--Lucky

[jasonm.]

Okay, imagine you are listening to Elmer Fudd... Be very very careful when prying out the seal.
  Their is a bearing retainer clip(wire) under the seal. DON'T hook it.
  I have done a bunch of seals and driving out the shaft that sits in the bearing is not a big deal. Lucky gave you good tips. But I have never done the freezer thing. Give me a shout for a seal. :)

[Lucky]

You might be an engine freak if your wife goes to pull something out of the freezer, and tells the kids we're having "bearings" for dinner.........