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is the Haynes book enough for the job?

Started by Buffo, May 11, 2005, 06:00:29 PM

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Buffo

i am going to rebuild my carbs (1982) and i have not done this before. i am not all that worried about the task but i do have a few questions.

1. is the haynes book sufficient in its rebuild directions?

2. are there any little "tradesman secrets" that will elavate the quality and/or longevity of the rebuild?

Thank you

Don

hfarley

I personally have not rebuilt my carbs yet, but I am a newbie still. I personally have the original owners manual, the yamaha manual, and the haynes manual. I find that for some things it helps to look in all three. Sometimes one will explain the process in a different way so that it is easier for me to understand. I don't know if that helps at all, but I have found them all to be helpful. Although if I had to pick one to use exclusively it would be the haynes. I am finding that I am using that one the most. Good luck and let us know how you do!
-Heather
Sometimes being insane in an insane world IS being sane

I don't suffer from insanity....I enjoy every minute of it!

Lucky

If you want the Yamaha manual, i have it on CD, shoot me an Email. it also includes the haynes manual, OEM parts Fiche, and the wiring diagram.

--Lucky
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

h2olawyer

Don -

If you've done other carbs in the past, the Haynes should get you through OK.  Study the diagrams closely before you start & keep track of which jets go where.  Procedure is set forth in Haynes fairly well.  Don't let the carb bodies sit in the dip too long (30 minutes should do it).  You don't want to remove the butterflies from the bodies & a longer dip in Berrymans will likely start to eat the butterfly shaft seals.

I've done mine three times, now & the V runs better each time.  It's had several multi year periods of poor storage prep & non-use.  The carbs were really gummed up.  After the latest cleaning & synch, all the stumble is gone and it pulls strong from idle to 10K.  Never did that even when new from the dealer.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to post before you try something you're unsure of.  Rick_G and Lucky have done lots of V carbs & I've got lots of general carb experience + the three times I've done my V's.

Good Luck.

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

Lucky

#4
a couple of tips:

--it's easy to strip the heads on the carb screws. instead, lock a small pair of vice grips on the screw & crack it off.

--to remove the float pin, use chanell locks to gently push the "small" end of the pin flush with the post (you'll see what i mean when you have the top off) then use a small flat screw driver under the 'head' of the pin to pry it the rest of the way out. i have one i've ground a groove in just for this purpose. use care, these posts can snap off, & then you have to buy a new carb top from me... ;D

--under the bowl gasket you'll find the brass emultion tube sitting nearly flush with the surface of the bowl. they can be hard to remove. i generally use a flat pair of linemans pliers to grip them & twist them back & fourth while pulling up. don't use regular 2 position pluers, their too sloppy. ? if the 'head' of the tube gets messed up enough that you can't grip it, use a dremil tool to cut a small slot in the top of the tube & use a screwdriver to twist the tube loose, then grip it again & pull it out. you can still use the tube just fine even if the top is a little 'ugly'

--before pulling the carbs, see if the accelerator no1zzles spray. if not pay attention to it's pump durring the rebuild. the nozzles themselves can be removed by clamping them in a large pair of vice grips & carefully & slowly twist & pull them out. do not lose the ball check & small weight underneath. ?clean the end of the nozzle out with a single strand of picture hanging wire. to not enlarge the hole in the nozzle in any way.
reinstall the nozzle, putting the ball check & weight in first. tap the nozzle in straight with a small hammer. ?when the nozzles spray, the spray should go between the wall of the carb & throttle plate, if it hits either, then gently adjust the nozzle. ?if the nozzle gets a little out of round from the vice grips, use a file to clean it up so it fits back into the top of the carb.

have fun, they're not that hard.

--Lucky
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

Buffo

one of the accelerator nozzles brass tube is loose from the brass nozzle body. can i just sweat the nozzle back on to seal it or do i need to buy a replacement?

Am i being clear to my delema?

Don

Lucky

I had that happen on mine. i heated it up with a small butain torch & it's held well, & i'm a lousy plumber, lol you have nothing to loose by trying, & as long as it's not an 83, i should have a spare if you need it.

--Lucky
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

Buffo

like you said it cant hurt to try.

Thanks once again for the use of your brains. ;D

Don

Lucky

no problem, please return them to their storage recepticle for charging when finished...
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black