Which fuel filter?

[mark_m]

I read another post on this awesome website where Lucky talks about putting an inline fuel filter between the bracket and the pump. I'm about to install a filter (I can hear stuff that sounds like sand in my tank when I remove it and shake it around) and want to know which filter is best. Lucky mentioned JC Whitney, but I couldn't find the model/part number on their site. Here's what I did find:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Browse/tf-Browse/s-10101/showCustom-0/refId-600001937/N-111+10211+600001937/c-10111

Is it any of these three? I'm going to stop by the yamaha dealer tomorrow and want to be able to describe what I want.

Thanks!
ps: I'll probably drain the tank out the fuel cap by flipping it upside down to try and get the 'sand' out. So let me know if you guys have any tips for doing that.

[ProfessorRex]

Either of these should work well:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2002784/showCustom-0/p-2002784/N-111+10211+600001937/c-10111

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2002783/showCustom-0/p-2002783/N-111+10211+600001937/c-10111

I had one like the second and now I have the first.

At the yamo'dealer they'll definately have a fuel fiter that will fit no problem

-Rex

[h2olawyer]

The first one on your link edit:(cone shaped one) is probably your best bet. ?You'll need to get some additional fuel line & make a kind of loop to make room for the filter.

Dennis Kirk has one that is similar but the ends are @ 90 degrees from each other instead of 180. ?Looks like it just might fit between the petcock & the opening in the bracket where the fuel line goes.

I knew there was something besides the stator I wanted to order from DK - it took reading this post to remember - that *@#% fuel filter! >:( ?Got so wrapped up in the stator project I totally spaced out the filter.

H2O

[ps2/bikevision]

the middle filter (cone shaped ) is the one i use. i got it at napa. and a 2.5 to 3 in. piece of fuel line and a couple of small hose clamps is all i needed.  i havent had a problem on with it on the bike or the boat. just be careful you dont over tighten the hose clamps and snap the nipple off the filter. which i did twice. once on the bike and once on the boat.

i think of all the filters ive seen i like the looks of the cone bronze element one the best. no more trying to tuck it under the tank. just let it hang.

[Coil Coyle]

MarkM

Blow the sand out with goggles on, an air gun with a bent tube "J" so you can disturb the area around the filler and hold the tank upside down,
or remove the petcock and seal the filler with a rag while you blow and shake everything toward that hole.
If you can't use air use a water hose and some dishwashing liquid on a warm day, wash it out, rinse with WD40 and leave in the sun, rolling occassionally, until its dry in all of the seams.

coil

[mark_m]

I stopped at Kragen's auto parts in Fountain Valley (CA) this morning and picked up a rather large clear glass filter. I got 1ft of hose and used cable ties to attach it to the side of the bike. I actually dig the way it looks and the fact that I can see how much sediment it's picked up at a glance. I installed it so gravity works in the filters favor too. I didn't realise it but the bike already had a tiny filter between the bracket and fuel pump - just didn't notice it before. I've removed that because it looks old and the one I have is much better quality.

Bike is running fairly well now - just surging a little on accelaration and needs some idle adjustment.

Mark.

[Lucky]

Mark, there is a good chance i've rebuilt your carbs.  on every one i did i installed a filter behind the bracket...
just an fyi
--Lucky

[mark_m]

Well if it was you Lucky you've made sure I bought a bike in much better condition that it might have been. Very cool. :)

I spent last night trying to make a home made manometer and after two tries and some research realized that using 10w-30 oil is NOT a good idea. I need something with a much lower viscosity - so I'll probably pick up some hydraulic oil because I googled and heard that worked for a BMW owner who made a home made manometer.

Mark.

[h2olawyer]

ATF works great.  Red is easy to see & viscosity is light.  Works well for me.  It won't hurt anything if it gets sucked into a cylinder because your carbs are way out of synch or one of the hoses comes off.

H2O

[mark_m]

Awesome - thanks h20. I'm going to have to pick up some more plastic tubing because I can't get the oil out of the stuff I've used. I was desperate last night and ended up buying an ice maker repair kit for $6 at walmart just to get the 25' tubing that came with it.

Mark.

[mark_m]

Got the ATF, stopped by a pet store to pick up plastic tubing and succesfully synced up my carbs. The bike is running a little cooler now and stumbles less.

I guess I was expecting the ATF to sit at the bottom and act like mercury. The bidirectional suction basically splattered it all over the inside of the tubing, but I could see from the way the oil was flowing which side had the most suction, and adjusted until it seemed to sit in one place. Clumsy, but effective.

Thanks for all the help.

[h2olawyer]

Works smoother if you clamp off the YICS & synch @ about 1500 ~ 2000 RPM.

Glad to be of help.

H2O

[jasonm.]

Works best if you have a restrictor of some kind at each end of the hose. Like a carb jet. Makes a big different, reducing the big pulsing effect of the vacuum.

[ProfessorRex]

I used synthetic 10w30 motor oil.  It is perfect.  It doesn't slosh around or foam, or any of that nonsense.  I didn't need to use any restrictions.  I tried using a lighter weight oil first and it sloshed and splashed around.

[Kenny]

    I just put on a 90' filter from Dennis Kirk  p/n 182519 (visu-filter) for $2.99. It makes installation a snap as the 90 does the bend from the carb to line up with the petcock.
      To easy.
                     Cheers Ken S.