How do you adjust down a high idle? *PROBLEM SOLVED*

[YellowJacket!]

OK, got her running today but she idles between 4 and 5k RPM.? I pretty much have to start out in 2nd or 3rd gear to keep from popping wheelies.

The Idle adjusting screw is all the way back (the bigh thumb screw) and there is a gap between it and the linkage, so that is not the problem.

When I was rebuilding the carbs, I noticed that the "plugs" were removed from the idle jets as opposed to the ones on the carb that came on the bike.? Could that be the problem?? They are two small jet screws right next to each linkage bar on the bottom of the throttle body before it seats into the rubber boots.

Any other suggestions or tricks that I should know?

David

[Lucky]

"the "plugs" were removed from the idle jets as opposed to the ones on the carb that came on the bike."

not sure what you mean here...

the 2 screws just above the intake boots are the pilots. i hoped you pulled those & their springs, washers & o-rings before dipping the carbs..

if your idle won't drop you either have a huge vacuume leak, or you may have the synq rod out of adjustment. did you loosen it while it was off the bike? did you turn it at all?

if it's vacuume, look for a leaking YICS (cap it off to check) or petcock, fuel pump vaccuume leaks

shine a light down the carbs & see if the throttles are all the way closed (with the bike off) there should only b4e like 1/32 gap between the throttle plat & wall of the carb.

is the throttle cable screw adjuster too tight?  mine is normally almost all the way backed off.

look at the synq rod side of the carbs, i forget why, but i've seen them hung up on the intake boots.

suspect something physical first, like interference, then check for settings.

--Lucky

[h2olawyer]

the "plugs" were removed from the idle jets as opposed to the ones on the carb that came on the bike.

I believe he means the plugs over the pilot screws.  If they're intact, maybe he can finally tell us what the factory settings were!

H2O

[Walt_M.]

Might want to check the throttle cable adjustment.

[YellowJacket!]

OK, I disconnected my "UYICS" or modified YICS and capped off the ports and voila, she idles at 1400 to 1500 RPM.  She has a little stumble that improves when she warms up.

I think the problem is that I used two 1 foot vacuum lines - one for each YIC.  I'm going to change to shorter braided fuel lines that are stiffer and give them a try.  Until then, I'll be riding with them capped.

David

[Walt_M.]

Do you still have your idle speed adjuster backed off? You may still need to adjust your throttle free play. Also synch the carbs. If I back my idle adjuster down, it will idle about 500-800 rpm. I don't ride it that way, too easy to stall it on take-off, but it will idle that slow.

[YellowJacket!]

YICS is still disconnected until I can get some denser hoses.? Idles now at about 1100 to 1200.? I think it was a combination of "be nice to me I haven't run in 12 years" and oops, I missed one vacuum hose.

Lucky pointed out to me where to hook up the modded airbox hoses on the front carb and I realized that I missed one hose completely.

My carb boots are in fair shape after using liquid electical tape to seal thm up but I think I'm going to replace them this winter just to fend off any phantom leaks.

Throttle free play is adjusted.? Surprisingly, carbs appear to be very well synced but Im going to make a gauge and check them soon.

Thanks for the reply walt.

David

Addendum,

No backfiring on decel and downshifting and only a slight hesitation at 3k RPM (modded airbox is not functioning yet)

almost no exhaust smoke either.  I think what is left over is from the oil I put in the cyls during the restore.

DA