stop using jb weld!!!(fuel tank guys )

[kiawrench]

 Stop trying to use jb weld on your fuel tanks ,and lets fix a few of these fuel tanks. it is a very simple fix, requires no welding ,and this product not only fills in holes, it will cover dents, can be painted or even powdercoated when dry . oh, drying time is about five minutes! 24 hrs from holes to riding .
   
   This product is called lab-metal, it is a aluninum based metal epoxy ,so it does require a thinner, also sold by the same company. here is the link:
http://www.alvinproducts.com/Home/lab-metal_instructions.asp

here is link on where to buy the product and thinner:
  http://www.neverseezproducts.com/labmetal.htm

   this stuff can be cut lightly, used to patch your holes, then when dry ,top coated by cutting it very very thin with the solvent ,and top coated with a paint brush .

    i have used it for years fixing tanks, fuell cells on race cars ,livestock water tanks,body work (even when bondo would have been cheaper ) it sticks to anything you put it on,when surface is prepped good, (just a good sanding around the area to be patched ) i fixed dented fuel tanks ,holes in fuel tanks ,and leaky exhaust pipes by using the high temp formula.
     
   take the time to read the details on the abve links, then try it . the key is to sand the area well, be sure it is clean, then mix to thickness needed for the repair at hand.
    if i can use it ,and a pro body shop paint tech cant see it is even there, it must be pretty darn good stuff.

[2wheelapeal]

looks like some pretty good stuff is it available in like advanced auto or places like that ??

[kiawrench]

i have found it for sale retail in farm supply stores, welding supply centers,high end auto shops,, cheapest place to get it is from the link i posted.

   Food for thought, i used it on my vision tank, to cover a small dent, and as a finish coat prior to painting. But the best project i have used it on was a rstoration i helped on, a 1939 Lincoln Zephyr, so far ,it has withstood 11 shows, winning honors at each event. We used the product as a filler , and to cover major gaps in broken/rusted out parts. this was done 4 years ago,and everything still looks like new, no flaking,peeling or dropping off ,as some other products do . . for a tank fix, i recommend one pint thinner and a 12 oz can of compound. just one thing to remember, it is too thick to use right from the can, as it will set up in seconds. it is best to remove what you expect to use from the can, and then add some thinner to prevent the can from setting up. put the compound into a work container and cut with thinner as needed for the task at hand. . i patched a tank hole using about a table spoon of compound to a teaspoon or so of thinner, mix it fast ,apply with a spreader, let it dry about a minute and recut the same work dish to consistancy of thick gravy and coated it again, also waiting a minute or so, then cut it to point of being almost sloppy wet and top coated it and surrounding area with a paint brush. this lets is do the job, cover and seal, then creats a even transition to surrounding metal. once cured 24 hrs, i sanded it down to match original contour and primed and painted just as if it wasn't there at all.
   The trick is to keep a pool on top of compound in container, mixing only what is really needed, and allowing a solid cure before trying to sand it.

[gmac]

Just my opintion here, but if you want to promote a product that you use, fine, but check your facts before knocking someone else's.

I'm sure that what you use is a great product, but I have used JB Weld for over 20 years, and it hasn't failed me yet.  I guess a product that has been around for over 40 years and still sells can't be all bad.  I have JB on a Ski Doo Elan caburator bowl (aluminum) used to plug a hole worn through by the brake cable fixed 6 years ago (can't get a replacement bowl) that is still holding, even after sitting all the summers.  Still holding on an old lawn mower crank case that I fixed 18+ years ago. Still holding on a JD tractor block that I fixed 10+ years ago and is used at least weekly (hole through the side, not on the water jacket, oil passages, etc).

JB Weld is available pretty much anywhere, doesn't seem to be affected by direct fuel contact (which is tough to find), shapable, sandable, paintable, etc.

I guess the point I am trying to make is if you thing what you use is better, more power to you, but don't discourge someone from useing something else that may work just fine for their application and save them some time, $$, and frustration.  My vision has JB on the outside of the tank and I have no worries about it.

Gary