Quick question for all of you "carb" junkies out there.

Started by dj, May 10, 2006, 10:56:38 PM

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dj

In the process of rebuilding the carbs on an 82 V and I am noticing a lot of dark brown "powder" cacked onto the inside of both carbs.

Is this "normal" residue or does this mean the previos owners were running crappy fuel in it?

Do I need to strip everything down and clean them with the "acid" stuff?  Or what else are my options.  I have 2 young kids in the house and don't like bringing harsh chemicals.  If I tear everything down then does that mean that the carbs will have to be synched?

All I was doing when I started this project was adjusting the level of a bad float (really bad fuel leak) and fixing the petcock.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.
2008 Honda Rebel (Black)

Mutt

If I were you, while your this far go ahead and rebuild them or have them rebuilt. The powder is actually 23+ years of build up. So you can imagine what it's doing to your jetting. You'll definately see a big difference in power and fuel mileage if you go ahead and rebuild it. I'm sure over the years there's been high and low quality fuels run through it.

Just my 2cents.

Mutt
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Extent

There shouldn't be anything on the inside of the carbs, they should look "brand new" clean.  You could try just using a spray carb cleaner but I'ld trust the dip more myself.  It comes in a paintcan so I wouldn't worry about your little ones getting into it either unles their real clever with a screwdriver.

If you touch the sync rod you'll have to resync them, and it's not a bad idea to check the sync at the very least even if you don't take the carbs apart.  Squeaky clean carbs, good sync, a working flapper, and a good YICS are all important factors in avoiding "the stumble"

Once you've got your carbs dipped and perfect you can occationally run a can of "in the fuel" carb cleaner to maintain it if you think it might be getting ditry again, just make sure you don't have Kreem in your tank or it'll dissolve it and deposit it right into the carbs :/
Rider1>No wonder, the Daytona has very sharp steering and aggressive geometry.  It's a very difficult bike for a new rider.
Rider2>Well it has different geometry now.

dj

okay, what is the sync rod.  I might have already taken that off the carbs without even realizing what it was?
2008 Honda Rebel (Black)

zore

The dark brown powder i would suspect would be rust most likely from your fuel tank.
1982 Yamaha XZ550
1995 Ducati M900

Lucky

Having a well running Vision is dependent on a clean fuel system. there are other things that can & do go wrong, but at least half are fuel related problems.

doesn't matter how clean your carbs are if your tank is dirty/rusty, it'll get thru a filter eventually or clog the filter & leave you stuck. the tank needs to be coated with POR-15 (www.por-15.com) get the m/c tank kit for about $35.

the carbs also need to be dipped, some of the passages in there are only a few hundredths of an inch wide.  use the dip outside, use the Chemtool dip from PepBoys, it's only about $12. sometimes after the carbs have been dipped, reassembled & adjusted, & the bike is running well, they may have to be dipped again because vibration from the engine will flake off crud in the passages that dipping loosened.

if (when) you disconnect the brackets holding the carbs together you'll have to re-synq the carbs. the synq rod is the threaded rod that connects the two carbs together on the left side (for 82, 83's are on the right) DO NOT change the adjustment on this rod when you pull it off the carb, you need to leave it where it is to have it 'in the ballpark' (Go Red Sox!) when you reassemble.

rebuild kits for the 82 carbs, fuel pump & petcock are ava on Ebay from Keyster/Sirrus (same company)

check your YICS for leaks per my site (http://www.xz550.com) it probably needs to be resealed.

properly adjusted accelerator pump nozzles, pilot screws & synq, and a properly functioning airbox flapper door will avoid any "Vision stumble" that occures.

along with all that you'll probably have to replace the seal on the starter, test & poss replace the stator and/or R/R if it's not charging (and battery), move the R/R, tighten the Balanace shaft nuts (2) repair the starter clutch & cut the rev limit wire.

this may all seem like a lot, & there is more (cleaning electrical connections, etc) but it can be done one item at a time, as needed, & most of the stuff isn't very expensive to do.

scared now?  ;D don't be. i also have manuals on CD if you need them, shoot me an email.
--Lucky

1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black