drivetrain noise ouch!

[haunter]

alright, so in combatting the vision stumble I reaimed one of the accel pump nozzles, I redid the pilot jet screw settings to the 2.5 and 4.25, mine were WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY off.

now it runs FAST compared to before and no stumble, fanstatic even!   in first gear


in second any decent amount of power = CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK from the drivetrain and no go in second and third, not really wearing any gear since I was just going down my street so I didnt feel like going that fast and having a mechanical failure.


any ideas to run through before I get more wrench time tomorrow night??

[Superfly]

That Clunking cant be good. 
What do you mean by no go in 2nd & 3rd gear?
No clunking or no transmissoin?

[haunter]

That Clunking cant be good. 
What do you mean by no go in 2nd & 3rd gear?
No clunking or no transmissoin?

it just CLUNKS in 2nd and 3rd

if I back off the throttle and only give it light throttle its fine


but if I grab alot of it it clunks and doesnt accelerate

[Superfly]

Clunk is a tough sound to understand.

Does it feel like a carbureation problem, or is the clunking a mechanical problem (transmission, etc..)

[Night Vision]

Clunk is a tough sound to understand.
Does it feel like a carbureation problem, or is the clunking a mechanical problem (transmission, etc..)

In first gear, can you roll on from start to redline (ok, 5,6,7k rpm) and not in the other gears? Or do you shift around 3500 and then try to accelerate in the upper gears and have the "clunk"?

[haunter]

I can go to 11,500 in first


it is DEFINITELY a mechanical noise and not carburation


I tried to go from the low end to the top of second and thirdIie 3k - 10k rpm's) and if I give it a decent amount of throttle this mechanical clunking noise occurs untill I back off the throttle, and the bike doesnt accelerate when this noise occurs.  Its as iff the shaft is spinning and the rear end isnt or its just not going into gear.

Tonight I will check 4th and 5th

[Night Vision]

check or spend a buck-seventy-nine and change your drive shaft oil before you go blastin off again

[haunter]

check or spend a buck-seventy-nine and change your drive shaft oil before you go blastin off again

exactly how do you change that oil


since the manual merely says "take bike to service dept' for anything drivetrain related

and how much fluid?


4th gear is fine

[MotorPlow]

On the Left side of the bike, at the rear wheel, on the outside hub of the drive shaft, there are two bolts and one vent. The bolt that sits on the hub end of the drive shaft, on an angle, is the filler bolt. Take that bolt out. The rear drive oil should be filled up right to the top of this bolt hole when the bike is on the center stand. The oil in there should be gear oil (Not Motor Oil & it shouldn't look like motor oil), I don't remember the weight at the moment.

To change this oil, remove the lower bolt on the underside of the hub at the  rear wheel end of the drive shaft, the oil should drain out if there is any in there. The drain plug should have a magnetic end... Check to see if there is any debris on the drain plug.

The vent at the top of the hub has nothing to do with much of anything, just wanted to point it out as a point of reference.

[dchakrab]

How often should you change the drive train oil? I'm about to do an oil change on the bike I got from Dion (basic crappy 20w40 for 1,000 miles, then replaced with something more expensive, maybe Castrol synth blend?)...and I was wondering if I should change the oil back there as well. The weight's stamped on back there...it's something heavy (80?). I can post the exact weight in a minute.

How often does that need to be changed? Any recommendations on what I should change it with?

  Thanks,

    Dave.

[vision_chris]

I just changed mine and used 80/90 gear oil

[haunter]

On the Left side of the bike, at the rear wheel, on the outside hub of the drive shaft, there are two bolts and one vent. The bolt that sits on the hub end of the drive shaft, on an angle, is the filler bolt. Take that bolt out. The rear drive oil should be filled up right to the top of this bolt hole when the bike is on the center stand. The oil in there should be gear oil (Not Motor Oil & it shouldn't look like motor oil), I don't remember the weight at the moment.

To change this oil, remove the lower bolt on the underside of the hub at the  rear wheel end of the drive shaft, the oil should drain out if there is any in there. The drain plug should have a magnetic end... Check to see if there is any debris on the drain plug.

The vent at the top of the hub has nothing to do with much of anything, just wanted to point it out as a point of reference.

ok I changed that last week

used Mobil 1 gear oil

I did ride it w/o this problem fine last week, this problem surfaced yesterday only after I had sorted out some carb problems


after talking for abit with my buddy who has owned two shaft drive yamaha's(most recently a 83 Turbo SECA) that the dogs for 2 and 3 are probably mangled just enough to cause problems, but I have to crack the case to know that for sure :'(

[Night Vision]

4th gear is fine
[/quote]

bummer. Since you changed drive shaft oil (filled up to overflowing at the top bolt? about 8oz.?)

and you say first and fourth gear are fine, looks like your dawgs might be tired.
wish I knew more about the tranny, maybe it's good I don't. someone else will

[haunter]

yup, filled her up untill some leaked over, then topped it off again to double check


about 240ml

[QBS]

Definately sounds like its time to either find a different engine unit or spit the cases on the one you've got.  You have my most sincere condolences.

[haunter]

Definately sounds like its time to either find a different engine unit or spit the cases on the one you've got.  You have my most sincere condolences.

anybody want a in great shape minus two gears 82, freshly cleaned carbs, full fairing, new windshield for 600 bucks?  11500 miles?

there is a 85 FJ1100 in immaculate shape for 1 grand but I dont have that laying around or I would be picking her up right now and keeping the vision actually

[MotorPlow]

Crack it open and see what you got...
I have a spare drive shaft and swing arm...

[Night Vision]

haunter; before you turn rat and jump ship... consider this:

Many of these bikes have been sitting around in garages, sheds, under tarps for years and are now being dragged out of the woods and weeds because of the gas prices.

I think some of them just need a good ole fashion  8) "Italian Tune Up"  8) - take her out on a dark back road and beat the crap out of it.

Before ROV sends Guido to your house, try this.....

Drain a quart of engine oil out and replace with a quart of tranny fluid..... run it through the gears, put some miles on it, especially in the 2nd. and 3rd. gears your having trouble with. How many miles? I don't know, 10-20-30?   ROW THAT GEAR BOX
replace the oil with fresh Yamalube 20_40... rinse... repeat as necessary..

The ATF fluid is loaded with detergents and is thin... that's why guys use it to try to free sticky lifters.
The Yamalube 20_40 is the stickiest oil I have ever seen.....

Maybe you just need to flush some crap out... and then stick it all back together  ;)
11.5k miles seems pretty low to have a whupped gear box

It took some miles to get my clutch pack used to clutch'in again.

What do you got to lose?  $25?  Besides, it's not my money  ;D

[haunter]

I have delo 400 in it now for oil

guess I can try the ATF thing afterwork

[Superfly]

I have cracked open a engine case (not a vision) and the transmission had spots of rust.  I would suggest doing what NV said, but take it easy at first.