Moving R/R question and other I did and hello to everyone!!!

[Prvi Vozac]

Hi everyone,
Yesterday I started to move R/R to stay cool. And I'm thinking to fix it to the screw on the chasis (which is probably for fairing, my bike is naked) left down from the fuel tank.Here's the photo: http://img128.imageshack.us/my.php?image=possiblerrplace2ov.jpgNote how beatiful fuel filter is  ;). I bought a bracket and I pulled the wires, and today I'm thinking to paint bracket and finish it. Only - maybe there's too hot? I would move it to the passenger peg but I'm afraid it will burn leg of my girl. I know many of you have it there, and please could you tell me your experience with this place and legs of your passengers.
Btw, I'm reading forum all the time, and rode big amount of topics, and forum is great, nad you all are great, and very very thanks on everything untill now. I don't know what would I do without forum. In the times the Internet many Visions waited in theirs garage to be repaired. Without it was very hard or impossible for many people to find and repair a lot of defects. In the start I was angry and desperate, but now I'm more optimistic, and believe I'll restore my bike to very good condition.
Untill now I cleaned my carburator, air filter, put (car) inline fuel filter, which looks perfect under the tank, cleaned tank filter, fixed YICS on Lucky's advices (works much stable with it), changed hoses for fuel and air, sprayed and checked all connections, TCI; and yesterday rewired R/R wires, and try to move R/R somewhere. When I finish moving, I'll post some pics of the bike. Here's my, for now little, blog diary of my V: http://xz550.blog.hr/
Next thing is to clean radiator and look inside the starter for an possible oil in it. Bike is very strong and stable, has a beautiful sound, and the top speed is cca 150km/h (cca 93mph) whic is totaly enough for me :).

Greetings to all ROV's!!!

Prvi Vozac

[louthepou]

Hi Prvi,

I think your location for the R/R is ok. there's a lot of air flow, so as long as it does not touch the radiator shroud or the clutch cable (the R/R gets hot), I can't see why it couldn't work.

Louis

[Lucky]

Just so your aware, that wingnut screw isn't for the fairing, it's for a plastic air deflector that runs in front of the cylinder & slides into a rubber grommet on the other (right) side.  it looks like you are missing yours, but if your not having hot starting problems, i wouldn't worry about it.

--Lucky

[67GTO]

I left my R/R where it was, and mounted a 12V CPU fan on it. (helpful tip from this web site) and wired it to the running lights. Works great!

[ps2/bikevision]

prvi. i dont see why it wouldnt work but its alot easier to move it to the footpeg or to one of the inner fender bolts as i did. ive yet to have a complaint from any passanger. 

and that fuel filter will work but you may have a problem with vapor lock with that much hose in there. i had to do the same setup last year and it worked till i could change it. i start to have problems with it vapor locking on me so i got a small cone shaped filter and installed it just before the carbs. you should be able to fit that filter in there too i cant remember how much room was there.

[Night Vision]

prvi. i dont see why it wouldnt work but its alot easier to move it to the footpeg or to one of the inner fender bolts as i did. ive yet to have a complaint from any passanger. 

I moved it to the rear peg but turned the fins towards the wheel. Still gets plenty of air and has short wire runs.

[Tiger]

I moved it to the rear peg but turned the fins to wards the wheel. Still gets plenty of air and has short wire runs.

I did it the same way....made a bracket for the R/R to attach to the rear left footpeg bolt....fin's inward as the movement from the rear wheel keeps air flowing when I'm running....easy fix.....NO complaint's from the wife when she's on the back.......Well...not about the position of the R/R anyway..... ::)

                      ;D       TIGER        8)

[Prvi Vozac]

Thanks a lot everyone on answers, yesterday we put R/R there left under the fuel tank and it does'nt look so ugly at all  :). Also we put new (no name) air filter.

BUT:  >:( >:( :'( :'(

I have a gas problem. It happened a few times from last carb cleaning, I thought it desapeared, but it didn't - now it's all the time. Gas/iddle is uneven - iddle normally, and on the next traffic light it just dies. Sometimes I hardly start on the light in the first gear. And when I give the throttle, about 4000 in the 2. gear it strangles a few seconds, a then explode and abruptly accelerate. In fourth gear it is on 5500 rpm. When iddle, I tried to keep throttle on 5500, it holds there a 10-15 seconds, and it fast falls down to 1500-2000. And when I give the gas strong, i hear fart from the exhaust.
We removed the fule filter we put before, but it isnt. We removed the YICS because I thought I didn't seal it goog, btu it isn't.
Is it a carb problem?
Please help, help  :)

All th hoses are new. Maybe rubber under the carb is old, or the pilots there leaking air. Or the fule pump leaks air.

Thanks guys!

Prvi Vozac


P.S. sometimes oddle constant on 3000rpm, then I put it on 1200, and after some time I have to return it back high to be on 1200 because it is too small, and then again...

[Extent]

That's almost exactly where I moved my R/R recently.  I had it on the passenger foot peg for a good while but the crappy metal I used for the bracket finally fatigued and broke on my during a ride.  I took the oportunity to redo the wiring and relocate it, and I've since removed the kickguards entirely.  Supervison had his mounted really slick right in front of the shaft casing I think it was, don't remember exactly but I thought it was brilliant.  I really don't think it matters where exactly you put it as long as you get it away from the heat of the rear header, the casing should cool well enough passively as long as the ambient temperature around it is low enough.  If heat from the radiator gets to be too much a simple heat shield would be extremely effective in fixing that, but I haven't seen any need for that as yet.

1500 rpm is a hair on the high side for the idle, spec is 1300 I belive, I usually run 1350-1400.  It should defenatly not be returning to 2k, that's too high, and if it's not consistantly returning to the same rpm (like if sometimes it goes down to 2k and the rest of the time it returns to 1.5k) then something's not right. 

I'm no expert but my guess would be a vaccum leak.  I would leave your YICS off for now, just until you can get a stable idle and get rid of the stalling, then put it back on (make sure you cap the YICS ports tightly, it's no good to remove the YICS and have the caps leak instead)  What condition are all of your vaccum lines in?  Are the carb boots cracked?  How close is the sync on your carbs.

Of course I'm assuming that when you say you cleaned your carb that you dipped it and didn't just go over it with spray cleaner.

[Prvi Vozac]

1500 rpm is a hair on the high side for the idle, spec is 1300 I belive, I usually run 1350-1400.  It should defenatly not be returning to 2k, that's too high, and if it's not consistantly returning to the same rpm (like if sometimes it goes down to 2k and the rest of the time it returns to 1.5k) then something's not right.  [/b]

I'm no expert but my guess would be a vaccum leak.  I would leave your YICS off for now, just until you can get a stable idle and get rid of the stalling, then put it back on (make sure you cap the YICS ports tightly, it's no good to remove the YICS and have the caps leak instead)  What condition are all of your vaccum lines in?  Are the carb boots cracked?  How close is the sync on your carbs.

This morning I moved away YICS but it's the same. YICS and fuel hoses are new, strong, tightly connected. Carb boots have rips on it but onla from outside. MAybe a little pilot tjem is flimsy. I didn't sync my carb at all, I just rode some texts aobut it. I dip my carb into the nitro dilluter, I didn't find any apropriate liquid for this in Croatia, and mechanic said me to use dilluter. Why that problem occured 100 km I cleaned my carb?
Ten minutes ago I found some topics on forum with the same or similar problem: http://ridersofvision.net/forum/index.php?topic=3680.0 but I don't understand the solution very good. I think I'll have to dip my carb again  :(. Could it be a fuel pump?

Tanks Extent

Vozac




Of course I'm assuming that when you say you cleaned your carb that you dipped it and didn't just go over it with spray cleaner.

[Extent]

I don't see how the pilot jet could be flimsy, though if it's not staying in place you'll have loads of problems.  Remember that one isn't supposed to be screwed in tight, that's what the spring is for behind it, to keep it from turning on it's own.

If you haven't synced your carbs that would be a good place to start, even if you weren't having problems.  Having the carbs out of sync can keep the idle from returning smoothly.  I'm too tired to give a full run down on syncing (it's 4am here) but I'm sure someone else will chime in.

It dosen't really sound like your problem is a sticky throttle to me, and I don't think it sounds like a fuel pump issue either, unless it's the vaccum line that feeds the fuel pump leaking.

[Prvi Vozac]

Pilot jet - maybe I expressed wrongly, it's a little pipe which goes trough these rubber boots on the cilinder. It goes very easy here-there.
I suppose it is some carb problem, because it's like struggling, and after this big burnout, like there's unburned fuel which is accumulating, and then abruptly burn. It is almost dangerous in the traffic, you could almost smash into a car in front.

4am? I knew in the USA is early now, but.. ;D. Nice feeling when someone help wiht your problem on the other side of the world, in this time. Here's half past one and I'm sitting on my job in the chair and trying to repare my bike online. Virtual repair of the bike!

[Extent]

Well if it's on the rubber boots those would be vaccum taps or ports or something, there should be 3 of them, one on the rear cylender and two on the front.  One goes to the petcock, one goes to the fuel pump, and the last one is capped off.  Those are where you'll hook up your monometer to check the sync (unplug the petcock and take the cap off the other one, leave the fuel pump plugged in)

I'll also be at work when i next log on, honestly, I am going to bed now :p

[Prvi Vozac]

OK, I'll dissasemble everything today afternoon. If anyone is there, can I stick these boot with high temperature red silicon? Here in Croatia we haven't Liquid electrical tape  :). Thought combine silicon and bicycle gum, or duct tape.

[Night Vision]

Prvi - when you cleaned and dipped your carbs, did you separate them? dip them one at a time?

If you separated the carbs then you MUST sync them. Just a tiny bit of adjustment on the linkage makes a big difference. Even tightening the jam nut can put them slightly out of sync.

Do you have a Haynes manual? The manual shows how to sync the carbs. You can build the manometer cheaply with clear hose and a yard stick / ruler

[Prvi Vozac]

Yes,I separated them,at least I think I did, I separated everything I could. No, I didn't sync.
I have all manuals. And I printed all materials from Luckys site I found.
I have some manometer which is used for central heating installing and maybe some other stuff.

[Night Vision]

before you go and disassemble everthing to coat the intake boots, I would sync the carbs first.
you might find that is the cause of your sudden acceleration / gas problem.

you can check to see it the intake boots are leaking by spraying (small amount of) starter fluild on them. if the idle increases, then there would be a leak. the cracks in the boots may just be on the outside. they are thick rubber.

[haunter]

before you go and disassemble everthing to coat the intake boots, I would sync the carbs first.
you might find that is the cause of your sudden acceleration / gas problem.

you can check to see it the intake boots are leaking by spraying (small amount of) starter fluild on them. if the idle increases, then there would be a leak. the cracks in the boots may just be on the outside. they are thick rubber.

x2

[Prvi Vozac]

O, I gotta have a vacuum manometer first, yesterday I hadn't succes. Thanks, I forgot to put spray on the boots, must first find starter fluid here. Is there any other spray I could try with?
I falled into a Vision depresion  :-\

These abnormal strong accelerations are very dangerous, my bike almost ran away from my arms a few times.

[Extent]

I think you can use carb cleaner instead of starter fluid.

You can make your own manometer very easily, lucky's got a picture describing how on his site
http://www.xz550.com/art_files/4dollarmano.jpeg
that's what I use when I do mine.