Moving R/R question and other I did and hello to everyone!!!

Started by Prvi Vozac, July 04, 2006, 03:25:03 AM

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Prvi Vozac

#20
July 06, 2006, 03:40:25 AM Last Edit: July 06, 2006, 04:07:55 AM by Prvi Vozac
I thinks we don't have carb cleaner here in Croatia  ;D. I'll search, but maybe it's easier to find kerozin here  ;D.
O, thanks for the picture, I' didn't see it yet.

What is ATF fluid? Is it automatic transmission fluid  ???, it's only I could fint on the net?

This gauge seems pretty simply.

Extent

#21
July 06, 2006, 05:16:42 AM
I just mean the spray carb cleaner, I'm pretty sure you said you used it before the first time you cleaned your carbs.

And absolutely right, ATF = Automatic Transmssion Fluid :D
Rider1>No wonder, the Daytona has very sharp steering and aggressive geometry.  It's a very difficult bike for a new rider.
Rider2>Well it has different geometry now.

Prvi Vozac

#22
July 06, 2006, 06:23:09 AM
Could it be WD40, I used it for a first cleaning? But I can buy carb cleaner in spray, too.

Extent

#23
July 06, 2006, 06:49:39 AM
I did a quick search around and it seems that WD40 would work as well.  Most of the sites I found were talking about car engines, but the idea is the same.
Rider1>No wonder, the Daytona has very sharp steering and aggressive geometry.  It's a very difficult bike for a new rider.
Rider2>Well it has different geometry now.

Prvi Vozac

#24
July 07, 2006, 05:03:34 AM
I really don't know what to do. I bought a hose for the vacuum manometer build, and I'll sync carbs tomorrow, but I think it could be a TCI, because bike it sometimes works perfectly.
     1. In the morning 7.30 I started, drove terrible, stregnling, exploding etc.
     2. After work, 16.00, abnormal high idle (on the streetlight I unsrewwed idle screw till the end)
     3. After coffee, 16.40, normal idle, but acceletaring, exploding, strengling.
     4. we went to shop fot 10 minutes, started bike, and it was perfect! Idle about 1000, clear acceleration without all the simptoms, and we made about 10 km, trough the city, went out of the city (normal speed, cca 80km/h), and then stop on the streetlight, and then idle falled totaly and she turned off. And in the next 7-8 stopping she wanted turn off too, but I gave throttle not to turn off (and again screwed idele screw)
      5. went to big shop, been there 2 hours  >:(, started, and she drove beatiful, without any convulsion. This morning too. But It makes me crazy.

I think if the carb's aren't synced, she wouldn't drivven normally at all. And sometimes she works wonderfull, sometimes terrible. TCI?

supervision

#25
July 07, 2006, 07:55:52 AM
 Visionmiester had a similar running experence, it was the yics,
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Night Vision

#26
July 07, 2006, 08:05:24 AM
he said he fixed the YICS box per "Lucky's advices" (I assume he means his website)
My first fix on a YICS box didn't last long and had to do it again

Prvi- test the YICS box again for leaks...
I agree that I doesn't sound like a sync problem because sometimes it runs great.

otherwise, can you open up the TCI and look for bad spots? like broken solder joints?

can you borrow one from somebody over there and try a different one?
if it ain't worth doing it the hard way....
it ain't worth doing it at all - Man Law
;D


if it ain't broke..... take it apart and find out why


don't give up.... don't ever give up - Jimmy Valvano

d0n

#27
July 07, 2006, 02:18:14 PM
dumb question... what the heck is a R?R and why does it need to be moved?

h2olawyer

#28
July 07, 2006, 04:27:58 PM
The R/R is the regulator / rectifier.  It sits behind the battery, bolted to the back of the battery box.  In that location, it tends to get very hot - both from performing its electrical function & from the hot exhaust.  Moving it to the rear passenger peg gets it out into good airflow to keep it cooler.  Some of us have adapted 12V CPU cooling fans to try to accomplish the same thing.  A failing R/R could lead to a fried stator.  These modifications have been made to hopefully prolong stator life.

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

Prvi Vozac

#29
July 08, 2006, 03:33:50 PM
Quote from: Night Vision on July 07, 2006, 08:05:24 AM
he said he fixed the YICS box per "Lucky's advices" (I assume he means his website)
My first fix on a YICS box didn't last long and had to do it again

Prvi- test the YICS box again for leaks...
I agree that I doesn't sound like a sync problem because sometimes it runs great.

otherwise, can you open up the TCI and look for bad spots? like broken solder joints?

can you borrow one from somebody over there and try a different one?

OK, I'll test it tomorrow for a leaks. Yesterday she went perfect all day. I don't understand. I can open TCI but I'm little bit afraid not to brake something, when look on the other side.
Should I solder if I find something? In whole Croatia there's maybe three Visions, and no one in my city, at least I think.
I'll note tomorow when I test YICS and go on the test ride, little bit longer one. Today is rain. Yester day was my first rain ride in the midle of the night. Thanks to everyone, a lot, lot, I don' know what should I do without ROVForum, I believe there's rare mechanics which could repare so specific stuff.
Ciao,

Prvi Vozac

KoenigsTiger

#30
July 09, 2006, 06:16:13 PM
Iam planning on putting on a more powerful Case fan on the R/R.  The Tornado, would 9.1 Watts at 0.76Amps over load the system??? Could I wire straight to the battery?  I dont run lights on all the time because Ive killed one R/R.  And some one told me that in '82 the system was not intended to support daytime running lights.  I was thinking of drilling the R/R heat sink and then mounting the 80mm x 80mm fan, so I would not have to use a bracket for it. Any suggestions???



Thank you :D
'69 Beetle
'82 Vision
'86 GS450

QBS

#31
July 09, 2006, 09:27:19 PM
You've been given really bad information regarding running the lights all the time.  Read Leathers' electrical site via Luckys' site.

Lucky

#32
July 10, 2006, 01:29:56 AM
FYI:
Euro lights are switched, US models are not, they are on all the time. when i unpack my manuals, i'll have to take a look & see how the EU ones are wired...

--Lucky
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

KoenigsTiger

#33
July 10, 2006, 08:20:18 AM
Interesting,  I still have to read that entire site on electrical...


Thank you! ;D
'69 Beetle
'82 Vision
'86 GS450

Prvi Vozac

#34
July 11, 2006, 08:11:42 AM
Just noting: friend and me synchronized carbs with hose manometer, and it was very simply, quickly, and fun - we made it with broom turned upside down  :). They were totaly unsynchronized, we had to move the rod more then 0,5 cm. Now the bike goes faster and work cleaner, when it work properly. Now I'm almost sure it is the TCI. I tried to test rubber boots under the carbs with WD40 but I think I don't do this properly. I met Dpanijan from this forum and from my city, he is now ex-visionarist, and he had similar experience with his TCI.
Now I'll try to repare it.

Hello to all!

Prvi Vozac

QBS

#35
July 12, 2006, 08:46:05 PM
Do not tear into the TCI box yet.  Now that you have the carburators sychronized, what are your operating complaints?

Prvi Vozac

#36
July 13, 2006, 02:38:49 AM
Quote from: QBS on July 12, 2006, 08:46:05 PM
Do not tear into the TCI box yet.  Now that you have the carburators sychronized, what are your operating complaints?

Complaints are the same as before: once the bike goes perfect, accelerating without cuts, clearly, iddeling normally, about 1000-1500rpm, depend I make it. When goes bad, it iddles so-so, or good, or strengles, and when I give throttle, it strngles, barely goes, and then explode and strongly accelerate (sometimes dangerous), and has cuts about 4000 and 5500 rpm, tachometer is CRAZY under 4000. When I go fast, over 6000, it isn't bad. And there's no rule when it will go bad or good. Doesn't matter it is hot or cold, doesn't matter how I set the iddle screw. Sometimes it's goog int the morning, sometimes not. Sometimes I drive and stop for 10 minutes, and then she changes her behavior. I don't believe it could be and air, because when it works it works perfect (for me).

After syncing carb when goes, she goes better and stronger. We had to move the rod on the carb for cca 5mm!(I think I wrote this).

QBS

#37
July 13, 2006, 10:22:22 PM
Not real sure what to advise.  But feel confident that failed TCI boxes definately do not act the way your bike is acting.  The crazy tach indicates electrical.  The tach gets its signal from one of the spark coil feed wires.  Look there for bad connections or shorting wires.  Inspect all spark plug related wiring including the high tension leads and their related spark plug cap conections.

Prvi Vozac

#38
July 14, 2006, 03:51:14 AM
Thanks QBS, I'll try to do this today. I think I'll wait untill I give my TCI to dissection. Tomorrow I go to a three weeks vacation, so I'll be without my bike (gotta drive the dogs with a car) and I'll be missed a screwing on to a bike  :-\.
But I'll be so-so present on the forum.
BYE GUYS! Have a nice summer rides!

Prvi Vozac

YellowJacket!

#39
July 14, 2006, 05:55:34 AM
Hello Pri,

I have similar problems frome time to time. Usually whenit happens I get some fuel leaking down onto the pavement from one of th eoverflow tubes on my carb which indicates a sticky float.  Also, Lucky told me that my emuslion tube in one of my carbs could be inserted too far causing th e fuel to overflow.  Make sure your overflow tubes are not clogged up and make sure your float is not sticking.
Since the bike runs perfect at times, I doubt it is a bad tci.

Best Regards,

David


Living the dream - I am now a Physician Assistant!!   :-)
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