Stator Cooling - The Final Solution??

[kiawrench]

i have been looking at the share the love idea for a while. a small t fitting just after the oil cooler routed down and back around to the top of stator cover ,drilled and fitted with a "fan tip" nozzle may do the trick. but a few things have to be noted:
this is going to allow oil to by pass the filter ,possibly sending something into the tip and jamming it all up,
this is going to be tricky as there isnt a lot of room to work with in this area (maybe just a single press fitting to dribble oil in?)
failing this, a new stator cover may be hard to locate.
and my last question- would it be possible for this to do even more harm than good- ie , would a liquid oil flow over the stator cause a short circuit or arc point and fry the bike anyway?

[Lucky]

i have a empty stator cover in front of me & somewhere i think i have a dead stator & flywheel, but looking at it empty, i think the little timming button, or perhaps just taping a fitting roughly 1" above the top of the YICS plate would work. a 1/8 copper (brass?) oil line like those used for oil pressure guages would work. also those lines are plenty long & coiling the extra line would help cool the oil before it gets to the fitting.

adding a pressure sensitive valve would shut the 'sprayer" off at idle, but when the pressure comes up with revs it would kick in..

needs refinement, but it's a thought.

i'm sure i could find you a tap point after the filter.

[Lucky]

couple more thoughts on this idea.
an accelerator pump nozzle is small enough to provide the spray

a simple screw adjustable ball check & spring would provide the 'pressure switch'

there is a 'web' cast into the inside of the cover, i can picture the cooler nozzle in a plate bolted  inside one of the squares of one of the webs (all this stuff is tiny)

i'll do some sketches & see if i can make this make sense...

[Extent]

I think going through the YICS plate would be preferable if possible, if just from an availability standpoint.  It's smaller and would be a lot easier to make replacements for than the whole side case (for when numbnuts like me break 'em)

Really it would be good if someone would put a thermocouple on their stator just to see how hot it is getting at the top.

Don't worry about oil over the stator, the system is designed to be in an oil filled environment.

[Lucky]

found my rotor & set it inside, going thru the YICS plate would only spray it on the crank bolt & rotor hub, it needs to be higher.

i taped the engine case for the oil cooler, side covers are easier to find...

[Night Vision]

.......going thru the YICS plate would only spray it on the crank bolt & rotor hub, it needs to be higher.

if the spray hit the crank bolt, you could put an "oil slinger washer" on it. a concave washer with a notch in it to sling the oil.

why is that YCIS plate there anyway?

[Lucky]

to turn the engine by hand when checking/aligning the timing marks

[Lead_Deficiency]

What year was the venture's updated stator cooler installed? Could that updated venture flywheel bolt be used to spray the oil ?

if its the same size as the V's could a pressure relief (spring/ball) be placed into the hole before the bolt is threaded in?

[Lucky]

IIRC, it's a different size bolt...

[Cdnlouie]

I like the 1" above the YICs location Lucky.  I think this location targets the top side which gets the least oil and probably has the highest temps.  Gravity should bath the rest of the stator as well as the flywheel distributing the extra oil around. Of course, the shortest path would be a line from the oil pressure switch just below the case.

I really like the idea of the pressure valve since one gets a little nervous about bleeding off pressure at the low pressure levels.  We could test the pump capacity by checking pressure before and after installing the "stator cooler". The bike may be able to handle it.

You know, when you look into the cover and realize the oil is way down there by the sight glass there is hardly a hope of getting oil inside the flywheel which is 10 stories up.  Some of the pre-80's bikes did not enclose the stator but put their rotor inside the stator.  Funny, I never remember ever replacing one of those. This allowed the rotor to catch oil from the crankcase and sling it everywhere.

I appreciate your brainstorming on the mechanics of this one Lucky. I think the drilled bolt is not as good as the nozzle targeting the top of the stator.  Any oil is probably better, but this is a good start to a feasible design.

Louie  8)

[Extent]

How much room is there between the flywheel and the case/stator?  Could you fit somethign like this along the top of the stator, with several small holes drilled into it to distribute the oil more evenly over the whole top surface?

[Lucky]

here is a quick drawing of an idea how it would work drilled out of a piece of steel
you could add a port for a "setting guage" after the ball check so you know what pressure it opens (or preset it durring construction)
also, a recessed screw like a pilot screw instead of a "T" handle.
A sheetmetal guard could cover the whole thing.   it bolts to the YICS plate screws (both pieces)

pardon my kindergarden drawing & the size, i'm late for work

--Lucky

[Lucky]

quckly, btw,
you could build it to replace the YICS plate but you still need to drill a hole in the cover for the nozzle  2 1/4" or so above the center of the original plate.
the cover i mentioned below could go all the way down to the pressure port below with slots built in for cooling airflow as well.

extent i think there may be no room for your bar, a cover would have to be placed over an assembled stator with putty on it to measure clearance. i could be wrong.  my nozzle would only extend into the case 1/8 to 1/4 inch...probably not thicker than that 'webbing'

[supervision]

   I started thinking about an old idea I had of water cooling that sidecase..  a water jacket that was hung from the plate you guys are talking about..  I wonder if that could pull enough heat off that case to bring down the temp   of the stator     dave

[supervision]

 Here's another thought,  how bought an adapter that let's that case breath to the air box

[Night Vision]

why not put a ram air scoop on the oil fill plug and vent the air out the timing plug. get a breeze going through there  :D if it rains, just put the oil fill and timing plugs back in.

[supervision]

 excellant idea, for sure that startor is in a hot box, with no chance of cooling itself (stock)

[Night Vision]

nope... that was a quick flop  >:(
stuck an air filer on a hose, wedged it into oil fill hole, took out timing plug...

too much internal pressure. basically wants to go out both ends. there was some "warm" air coming out, but not hot like I expected.
plus it sounds like a Stanley Steamer  :D :D

tell ya what though... that case heats up quick! quicker than the oil. I have a 160 deg. thermostat on my cooler system and that case was way hotter, way quicker than the oil. Case was way hot even before the thermo started to bypass.

back to the heat sinks for now

[NewVisionGuy]

Hey Lucky,   in you diagram  for the "stator cooler"   would a choke plunger  work  for the adjustment setting?  We would already be using parts of a carb for the nozzle, so...   we  could draw up some technical drawings and I know a machinist in Roanoke that might be  willing to  make this thing.

[NewVisionGuy]

scratch  that...  you mentioned a pilot  screw  which would work great.