Stator Cooling - The Final Solution??

[Lucky]

I brought home some brass stuff from work i'm going to play with, & thinking about it i'm not sure the accel nozzle is big enough.  i think i'd like to do this without robbing parts off our carbs, i'd like to find something cheaper & more readily avalable. crimped pipe or something very common...

[jasonm.]

I see someone thought of "venting" the stator case. This is actuallyquite simple.This is a simplistic approach. Just (1) find a pipe or fitting that connects in place of the oil filler and or timing cover plug. (2) using hose and a K&N vent filter placed vertical...somewhere. Would let heat escape much quicker. I know there is no input of cooler air. Like i said ...simplistic. :P

[Cdnlouie]

There is significant crankcase pressure which is normally aspirated through the air cleaner evaporative system which makes venting as you said "simplistic." It would be great if you had enough vacuum to clear out the hot engine gasses to cool the internal environment.  Then the addition of an air supply vent for cooling as suggested.

No doubt the increased blowby of older machines would elevate engine temperatures and figure into decreased stator life over the life of a Vision.

Nevertheless, the oil bath is probably the most effective means of dissipating stator heat because of its ability to transfer heat as it contacts the surface.  I wonder if certain engine oils do this better than others? I am eager to see what Lucky or any one of our competent engineers come up with.

Louie  :-\

[VisionaryDan]

Ok here's an idea on how to get oil to the top of the stator. Why not pump it from the bottom to the top of the left side cover. You could use a 2 stroke oil injection pump. Possibly connect it to a 12v motor.   I thought about driving it off the engine but I couldn't come up with where to drive it from. 10K rpm is a little too fast for an oil injection pump. It may be a bit tricky mounting it but I'm sure we could come up with something.

We could just drill and tap small fittings top and bottom and just pump it to the top. That way you wouldn't be robbing oil from any other part of the engine.

Dan

[MotorPlow]

Let's think inside the box here for a moment....
My wife has several small fountains around the house. They get plugged into the wall and constantly circulate water from the base to the top of the fountain. What about something like this, hooked to a relay, so when you turn on the ignition, it would start circulating oil. I guess you would need a small electric 12V pump down in the oil pan and a line running to over the Stator/Rotor unit. Other than a pwr and gnd wires coming out of the case, no other modifications. When I was in high school, a buddy of mine had a Pontiac LeMans He had an after market oil circulation pump installed. He would flip the switch 30 seconds before he started the engine. In that 30 seconds, the pump would move oil up into the engine, before it was started. Anyone ever hear of anything like that... and if so, how can we use it with our stators.

[supervision]

  ok this is what we do, take off the water pump, use that sealed saft to belt drive a auto style alternator. then we get 12v water pump.

[NewVisionGuy]

Wouldn't  the   amount  of  amps the  car alternator  puts  out  cause a problem???   Just I guess.   We  leave the car  turned off  when  we're jumping  off  one   for that  same reason.   Then  again,   maybe  Lucky or  someone  has  another chance to tell  me  I'm  wrong  and   your  idea  is  just crazy  enough that it might work!!! ;)

[supervision]

 car alternators turn them selfs on and off to regulat the voltage.  There are  low amp. output ones that would do an excellant job.   It would be alot of work getting the waterpump shaft ready, like a bearing put in the case maybe.   

[Lead_Deficiency]

If theres room, theres an oil line under the side case, near the stator that could have a T and pressure relief valve installed. It can be seen on the yamaha parts catalog under oil pump or the links below.

http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lead_deficiency/detail?.dir=/7f57&.dnm=4ef4re2.jpg&.src=ph&.tok=phvmDZFBpl2FKQuu

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx

[Cdnlouie]

Hey LD,

That line might be too small to split another from, since it might cause too much of a pressure drop there. However, there is the oil channel in the engine case that goes directly to the oil pressure switch (lower left case just below the stator) which could have a fitting installed which would keep things inside the case.  As long as the line could be routed around to the open end of the flywheel and stator.  This would be neat and tidy as you are suggesting.

Louie  :-\

[Lead_Deficiency]

I haven't seen it but it sounds like a safe spot.

Theres a company from germany that makes high temp varnishes and resins for electrical equipment, their sales rep is checking with the technical director for a better insulator for stators.

[ofstone]

I like the idea of cooling the side engine cover where the stator is situated. I also noticed a lot of time how fast this engine cover is heating up well above water boiling temp due to the stator. Unfortunately the cover is very well isolated from the rest of the engine due to the paper gasket wich works as an insulator. Maybee change to another better heat conductive gasket like is used for head gaskets?
But placing cooling fins looks like a nice solution to prevent overheating.

Again we still are trying to find a solution for the problem, not the source of the problem.
The stator is heating up to much due to the type of voltage regulating. Lots of energy is wasted into heat, for what we now are trying to find a solution to better cool the stator. In my opinion the best way is stil to prevent the stator from generating to much heat by changing our R/R from parallel regulating to a self build series/switching regulating, saving more than 100 watts in heat. However....

This is easyer said than done, by this time i have done various testing and researching, and unfortunately everything i have found upto now, is simply to big to fit on the bike, to expensive or not reliable.
We need somobody with more experience than me with this type of high current/voltage power regulating, to help us build a schematic for a series (switching mode) power regulator.