82 carb rebuild.

[kwells]

so what am I supposed to do with all these extra screws and bolts then?













jk

[YellowJacket!]

YES TO 1&2.


Don ;)

Thanks Don. ;D

David

[Lucky]

so what am I supposed to do with all these extra screws and bolts then?
jk

That reminds me!! i saw my dream job this morning..pulled up at a stop light next to a truck that said "National Screw & Bolt"!!!!

yeah, i know, it doesn't answer any carb questions... 

[YellowJacket!]

so what am I supposed to do with all these extra screws and bolts then?
jk

That reminds me!! i saw my dream job this morning..pulled up at a stop light next to a truck that said "National Screw & Bolt"!!!!

yeah, i know, it doesn't answer any carb questions... 

You obviously haven't seen the "Purdy Bros Erection Co." truck yet.  I laugh my head off everytime I see it.

David

[stephenn]

Dipped the carbs last night, thanks to a friend of mine.  Lord knows the world probably doesn't need another 5 gallon can of highly noxious chemicals, so he helped me get 'em nice and clean.  His reaction: 'man those are some BIG carbs'.
He's got an old CB400, an R6, and an SV650, for reference.

Anyway, hopefully I'll get the carbs back together soon (although I think I lost one of the circlips that holds the throttle link on: I hope I can pick one up at OSH...).  I was starting to feel a little nervous, but I figure after hearing DaveTNs story that I can probably screw it up pretty bad and still get something that runs.. :)

Steve

[stephenn]

OK, they're back together and on the bike...  I synched the carbs and started setting the idle.... 
It took me the longest time to figure out that the reason it wouldn't idle without the choke on was
because I needed to adjust the idle...  (duh...)

I attempted to adjust the pilot screws, but the front one sure doesn't seem to do much (How am I
supposed to find the midpoint of the smooth idle range if it idles roughly *everywhere*?)  and I
can't figure out how to get to the rear one without taking the carbs off...   I assume there's a special
tool that gets around the fact that the rear engine block is in the way of getting to the screw?

I'm itching to go for a ride now: I didn't really get a nice idle before I started to smell dinner..  We'll
see what tomorrow brings.

Steve

[dminor]

Steve,
   Bend a thin screw driver. ( It's not the rear engine block in the way, just the rear engine upper  mount. ) take out the bolt it will help, just put it back before you ride. The frame flex is bad enough with out the mount being loose.
Don ;)

[stephenn]

OK, I managed to find a long thin screw driver that I could adjust the rear cylinder with.
Success!  I actually rode around the block a coupla times (for the first time in like 3 years on the V).

After patiently syncing, adjusting the idle, synching, adjusting the idle, I did (eventually) get to the point
where the pilot screws had a noticeable effect.  I failed to pay attention to exactly what the adjustment
was, but it was definitely further out on the rear than the front.
I found that it actually seemed to run better (on the sidestand, at least) if I actually left it slightly out of
sync (with the rear pulling  a little bit more than the front).  In particular, with the sync exact at idle, revving the
engine often resulted in it almost dying when returning to idle.   I'm speculating that the larger mains/ higher
airflow on the rear at speed might result in an overly lean mix returning to idle on the rear cylinder (more air velocity when
the throttle closes = more air mixed with the same amount of fuel from the pilot screw).  This was one of the things
my V always did before that really annoyed the **** out of me.  I peeked inside the airbox: no flapper at all.
combined with the odd jets and the dual front disks makes me think I have a bit of an odd beast.

Anyway, it seemed to ride pretty well...  definitely goes like a bat out of hell with the throttle open (which I remember),
and tends to bog down sometimes in the midrange before taking off like a bat out of hell (which I also remember).
I'm guessing this is the oft-mentioned 'stumble': If I had an instrument cluster, I'd tell you what RPM it happens at. :)
I also feel like the front end is really soft and a little bit squirrely: I suppose I'll have a go at replacing the fork oil, in addition
to all the other fluids since it was sitting so long.

After finally getting the V running, I'm feeling a little soft for my wife's CB450....  It may not have the looks or the power
of the V, but at least it's somewhat predictable. :)

Steve

[stephenn]

I snagged a picture of the 82 keyster carb kit.  The 83 kit is up on Lucky's site.
I thought this might be useful to someone digging into the 82 carbs for the first time.

Top row : Accelerator pump, fuel inlet, accel. pump spring, pilot screw spring

Second row : pilot screw, pilot screw and drain screw ORings, ball and weight for accel pump nozzle, washers for pilot screw, main jet plug, and pilot jet plug, gasket

Bottom row : pilot fuel jet, replacements for front main jet (122.5), rear main jet (127.5) and main air jet (130), and the drain screw.

And another bit of newbie advice: after you take the top of each carb off, *before* doing anything else, remove the floats, which are easy to break... :)  (Thanks for the replacement Lucky... )

Steve

[Lucky]

Another tip:
be super careful when pulling the carb float pin, those posts break also.  i've mailed out a few carb tops too...

[Scott_Mc]

In reading through this post in it's entirety,
I have just one question:
Who am I mailing my carbs to for a rebuild ;D ?

Probably not that bad to do but the thought of little spring loaded pieces flying out and into the abyss (where everything I drop goes) scares me  ;)

Is there any way to sort of douche out the carbs without dissasembly? Soak, shake, tip, turn, repeat  :o ?

[zore]

Scott, where are located.

[zore]

Scott_Mc
ROV Newbie

Posts: 12


Boston, MA If you're local, look me up!


NEVER MIND!

[Lucky]

I can do it for you, i've done dozens of them.  you may want to do it yourself though, they are not that hard.  plus you'll have the satisfaction of knowing your carbs inside & out.  the cost of shipping, parts (well you'll need them anyway..) and what i charge (i think i'm expensive, others don't) is more than what you'd spend to DIY, but if your all thumbs, i don't mind.

email me & we'll talk.

BTW, to those of you who emailed me & are waiting for info on parts etc from me, i've been crazy busy, i'll get all the info to you soon, i haven't forgotten, things should ease up in the next week or so...

--Lucky

[Scott_Mc]

Nope, not all thumbs at all but if they are not rebuilt correctly, you gotta pullem back out takem back apart.....  with present priority of projects, I simply don't have the time.  They have never even been off of the bike.  I'm the second owner and as I said in an earlier post, owned it since it was a few years old.  All of about 13K on it!  It was running went it made its trip down the basement stairs, but on one cylinder.  Battled the tank for a couple years prior and it finally got the best of me.  I was hardly riding it and had other things going on so I said "see-ya".  I know better but I never even drained the tank(pathetic, yes, feel free to flame me, I deserve it!!)!  EEK, I'm afraid to even look in there :D.

I have a complete parts bike, like so complete that I don't want to part it!  Biggest problem with it is that it's been stored poorly (what the heck does it take to simply cover something!!)  The tank on it might be OK but the ignition key does not seem to want to operate the tank.  Not sure if it is the original and just stuck but it feels more like the wrong key.  I have some info for the p/o and need to maybe drop him a note.

A tank ended on eBay yesterday.  Brand new and it went for cheap?  Did anyone else see that?  Legit you think?  For that kind of money (I don't recall excatly, about 140 to your door) I'd seriously consider a new tank.  I did the Kreeme thing to mine and I would not do it again. If I can get it to run right off of a jug, then I'll spend the money on a tank I guess.

Lucky, when the time comes, I'll likely look you up.  Even if I were to decide to sell the bike which is a serious possibility, I would really like to ride her again!  I do have a friend nearby who has a super nice V-Max.  He's got a synchronizer and for a couple of brews he's take care of me.

As always, thanks for the replies!

-Scott

ps: I think you all should have your locations (at least what state) by your names or something

[Lucky]

We don't flame here. this is the 3rd or 4th evolution of the board over the last..6? years. never seen it happen. Good for us!

as to location, click on any member's "view profile" icon. if they choose to include it, they're location will show up on the member map.

Hows the weather up there  ;D ;D

--Lucky, in 'warm enough to ride if i really want to" Tennessee (formally of "no frickin way, too damm cold!! RI")

[stephenn]

OK, I'm ready to declare success...  With the addition of an airbox flapper, which someone seems to have removed at some point,
I'm rather pleased with how the bike runs now.  (thanks Tiger...) 
It definitely idles better than ever, although there is still a small stumble moving off of low throttle.  I might go back and try nickling
the flapper, but for the time being, I'm happy.  When's the next Bay Area-ish ride??? :)

Steve

[zore]

We don't flame here. this is the 3rd or 4th evolution of the board over the last..6? years. never seen it happen. Good for us!

I'm afraid we do.

[Lucky]

Uh..ok, mayby once...  ::)