Yep, another one :P

[Aelwulf]

Ok, I'm about to do some shopping and want to check to see if I'm missing anything for the initial retune.  Here's the list so far:

Fuel additive/water remover
carb dip
carb spray
spark plugs
spark plug wires
oil
oil filter & o-ring
gear oil
rear brake brace bar bolts-10.9 grade bolt with nyloc/lock nut
fuel filter
dielectric grease

Already got the new stator and fork seals I needed to get.  I read something about changing out the fuse box & type but kind of hoping to get it running then do that on a weekend if I can when the weather's not too great.

[ps2/bikevision]

sounds like a good start.

[Aelwulf]

Shiny, thanks. :)

[zore]

My 2 cents

Add a brake line ot the list if you want to not rear end someone.  And before you go anywhere with it, replace the fuse box as it "will" leave you stranded.  Ask me how i know these things.

[ps2/bikevision]

before you go anywhere with it, replace the fuse box as it "will" leave you stranded.  Ask me how i know these things.

yea but thats part of being a vision owner. :D some things you just got to experience yourself.  :D think about it. if you never had to change a stator, r/r, bleed the cooling system, run out of gas 1 mile before the gas station and drop the bike trying to push it, had to argue with the yamaha rep that they did indeed make a vision, and still have to walk him out side to prove it, you wouldn't have any horror stories to tell ;D ;D

[h2olawyer]

I'd add brake fluid to the list, along with a speedbleeder.  If you upgrade to the stainless line (highly recommended) and you can get the brake bled well (speedbleeder helps tremendously), these bikes actually stop fairly well.  You won't be doing any stoppies, but that would probably snap the forks anyway.

Just my $0.02

H₂O

[Night Vision]

Ok, I'm about to do some shopping and want to check to see if I'm missing anything for the initial retune.  Here's the list so far:
..........
rear brake brace bar bolts-10.9 grade bolt with nyloc/lock nut
..........

Already got the new stator .......

I'm not so sure just any old bolt works. They are shouldered bolts / not threaded the whole length...
I got both from dealer for about $6.. get some new cotter pins too!

oh yeah, don't forget to get a prescription for 3cc of stator anti-rejection serum. That's probably what Tiger's problem was  ::)

[Tiger]

oh yeah, don't forget to get a prescription for 3cc of stator anti-rejection serum. That's probably what Tiger's problem was  ::)

:o Aaaaaah, thats what I forgot ::) ;D ;D :D :D :D :D :D :D... ;)

:) Spark plug cap's...Its a shame to do two out of three...Plugs/wires/caps ;)

;) Its advisable to do the fuses now, as a slight fault there could see you pulling your hair out... ;D

8) ...and here is a link for the Galfer S.S. braided brake line...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-VISION-550-1982-GALFER-FRONT-1-SS-BRAKE-LINE-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35592QQihZ014QQitemZ330115469299QQrdZ1

                              8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Aelwulf]

At first it's just going to be to work and back mostly, about 20 miles between here & there with people to call if I have to.  But I will be attempting the fuses soon as I can.  electrical/soldering work still gives me the willies. :P I did a bit on the flightline but not much.

Thanks for note on the caps Tiger. :) The guy at the parts counter caught that one so I have 'em.  I was also getting ready to ask about the braided lines before too long so thanks there too.  I've seen the speed bleeders before so figured when I get to do the one I'll get the other. ;) Mine did a good job stopping before I took it apart, and that was with almost zero rear brakes.  It should do alright until I can do the swap.

The parts guy saw the shouldered part on the bolts, but he said he couldn't get 'em etc.  These guys actually don't laugh or look at me stupid when I ask about Vision stuff but sometimes they'll just say they can't get thigns without digging too far.  Most things they look up at least though.  I have had the "What's a Vision?" bit at other places though. ::) I gather Ace/Lowe's/Home Depot/where ever would have the shouldered ones then?  I brought this up to the guy workin' on mine (who's been a mechanic on Yamahas most of his life) who was a bit confuddled about those bolts.  He said he's never heard anything like it.  I told him for a $4-6 fix I'd rather do it & not need it then the other way around which he figured made sense.

Speaking of him he's a step or so ahead of me.  I got the stuff to clean the carb today and he said he's already done it, had to before he would get the bike running.  Cool. :) Another thing he wasn't keen on doing was removing the stator's plug and soldering it, insisted that was the only way to check it if it needed to be.  My plug actually wasn't burnt either so for now I'll run the risk of having to replace the stator again later.  If I do I'll solder it then.  I need it runnin' for now.

I got a call from the mechanic, new problem.  Apparently the tubes in the front forks had been bent some which he could've fixed but the guy before me must've done a job on it 'cause they were toast.  Managed to find a guy in town though willing to trade mine for a pair off one he's got (parts store) plus $100 or so.  Beats paying $400+ for new ones at the dealership.  I also need to dig up a throttle cable someplace, ends up mine has a snapped spot form how it was tied together with the other cables on that side. :P

Thanks for all the help. :)

Edit: K, have the braided lines bought for when I get to it now.  Thanks for the direct link. :D

[inanecathode]

In my opinion, i dont think it matters if its shouldered or not. The grade 8 bolt i got fits the hole in both the arm and the drum and the threads are as wide as the shoulder on the old bolt. It's also my opinion that the arm should. not. move. at. all. If it moves it'll start cutting the bolt off. I think it matters more how tight/securely tight the nut is on it than if its shouldered or not. Grade 8 anodized is lightyears better than what yamaha provides.

[Night Vision]

Another thing he wasn't keen on doing was removing the stator's plug and soldering it, insisted that was the only way to check it if it needed to be.  My plug actually wasn't burnt either so for now I'll run the risk of having to replace the stator again later. 

I agree with that too... I did not solder my second replacement... just disconnect that plug and check/clean it once a year at least...

In my opinion, i dont think it matters if its shouldered or not.

hmmm.....  maybe there's a reason why the engineers decided to use a special shouldered bolt...maybe not..... maybe the accounting guys said "hey, we need to add another yen to the price... where should we put it"?  ::) ... maybe not  ;)

[inanecathode]

Another thing he wasn't keen on doing was removing the stator's plug and soldering it, insisted that was the only way to check it if it needed to be.  My plug actually wasn't burnt either so for now I'll run the risk of having to replace the stator again later. 

I agree with that too... I did not solder my second replacement... just disconnect that plug and check/clean it once a year at least...

In my opinion, i dont think it matters if its shouldered or not.

hmmm.....  maybe there's a reason why the engineers decided to use a special shouldered bolt...maybe not..... maybe the accounting guys said "hey, we need to add another yen to the price... where should we put it"?  ::) ... maybe not  ;)

Or its a poorly thought out design, kinda like a sealed yikes box, or oversized carbs, or the charging system?

[Tiger]

:) I used a grade 8 bolt, washer and nyloc nut to secure both end's of the brake tensioner bar. The head of the bolt fit's snug, like the O.E.M. This is my fix for my "V"s...

SIDE NOTE...For those NOT aware, when you go to your local hardware store to buy nuts/bolts for your "V", the hex head on the nut/bolt can be a different size to the one(s) your replacing, although the thread size will be the same :o This is because the Japanese have their own spec. In most case's this won't be a problem. However, as an example, say you want to replace the bolt that holds the rear foot peg, the bolt from hardware store will have a larger head and will make the task of tightening it up with a socket almost impossible because of the "recess" it is going in to...The two main grades of metric bolt's being...8.8 and 10.9, sort of grade 5 and grade 8 in standard hardware.  The higher figure being a better grade... :) This I.D. will be stamped on the head of the bolt(s) you are buying, if not find another supplier. I hope this helps  ;)

                                        8).......TIGER....... 8)

[zore]

At first it's just going to be to work and back mostly, about 20 miles between here & there with people to call if I have to.  But I will be attempting the fuses soon as I can.  electrical/soldering work still gives me the willies.

I'll tell you what will really give you the willies.  Being stranded on a 12 lane section of the NJ parkway right after the toll boths with a bike that just died for no other reason other than being a vision.

My other piece of advice to you is, if you are intent on using the YICS box (heated topic) make sure to get the bike running well with out it first.  A leaking yics box will cause a whole host of issues so yank that variable out of the equation.  I run with mine blocked off.

[don_vanecek]

The site Tiger gave for the brake lines now says "ended buy in now" so does this mean they are now out???

Have never bought off one of these before, please advise!

[ps2/bikevision]

no most of the time it means that they have sold alot of them fast with the buy it now and are looking to get more through the bidding. ive seen it several times. then when they start selling for less than the buy it now was then they will put it back on.

[Aelwulf]

Plus that one was for a specific item for sale (which I bought yesterday, so that specific one will show being over :) ).  If you click on their store or whatnot ont he page and do a search for more you might get another one.  Worse to worse can just message 'em to see if they have another up. ;)

[Tiger]

 :) Try... http://www.sumofallparts.net/

[don_vanecek]

I called the company and although I may have to wait two weeks they still said they could get it and at the same price. Hope I get it in time to put on before going to Colorado!  (Or if it doesn't come soon enough maybe H20 will help me put it on some evening-we will have a Vision garage in Colorado won't we???).

[jasonm.]

I see you listed water remover for the fuel. I have found that some actually take water out of the air and get it into the fuel. STP water romer for example.  In a glass, I poured it into fresh clean gas on a humid day.  2 hours later water had formed in the bottom of the glass. Did the same test without the STP. No water. Maybe a gasline antifreeze is best.  If you empty the tank and let it sit in the sun on a hot day. That will surely remove the H2O.  ...Also the torque arm bolts break for 2 reasons. (1) one or both ends are not tight...there should be NO play in that arm.  I.E.> No "clunking" when the brake is applied & (2) Corrosion.