Another one bites the dust.

[Aelwulf]

Thinking that after I get it all sorted out, I may look for a nearly new OEM stator on eBay.  Photo should show it with tan colored insulation.  Might spring for the real thing, but at nearly $400, I can get a lot of cheapies.H₂O

$400? :o Think mine was $250-260 if I remember right.  Then again I might be thinking of the R/R I got through the dealership but I'm 90% certain I got my stator there as well and I haven't paid $400 (yet) for any parts.

[h2olawyer]

Looked up a new OEM stator on Bike Bandit, Speed & Sport & PartsFish.  Motogrid had one for $314, but it is on backorder.  All had them for $370 - $390.  When I looked a year ago, they were somewhere in the $200 - $280 range.  Think Yamaha had another 'arbitrary' price hike this year.

Ordered a few new trim type parts to freshen up the V - rubber cable covers, fuel cap, things like that.  They should be here this week.  Prices on those went up a little, but nothing near what I saw with the stators.  Internet price on an 83 type cap was $45, but the local Yamaha stealer listed it @ $54.  The other parts were actually a little less.  Also got a set of new levers.  The new ones are low gloss black instead of the original high gloss.  Just amassing some new parts to install after the new paint this fall / winter.

H₂O

[supervision]

  I feel your pain h2, that said, I agree that these things have to much out-put for the quality of the insulation.  This is a fact, my first stator from Electrto-what ever the hell he called himself,  were decent quality.  my first one from them lasted 10,000 miles, and when it gave up I willingly ordered another one from him, tell them that theirs had lasted about as long as the oem yama , still kind of wondering why about the short life-span, but i'll buy another.   So the thing shows up, and I say to myself, there is no way I'm even putting this thing in my engine. What a POS   So I go to the junkyard and get a Shadow of decent color and put that in.  I figure that I'll just call Electroshit back and return it, their brand new really special, made in Bancock stator that I' had not installed.  Wrong!!!  he says they have No return policy.  I tell him he should take down the picture he has of stators cause they don't look anything like the on he sold me!  He say's, it don't matter what they look like, your stuck with it. I think he deals in JUNK. My shadow is showing age too, it's got 5,000 miles on it, hasn't failed yet ,  I got another beautifull condition shadow stator the other day on ebay for about $ 30 bucks..   Don't get me wrong, I'd still Love to have a system that did'nt ever overheat it'self, I'm just thinking of using this  for another short-term solution  Get alook at a stator that has a big coating, you can tell the difference.   I think the hondas are better looking than the yamas.  that's my story, and I'm stickin to it

[h2olawyer]

As it currently sits, I think I'd go through any stator in about the same time / mileage.  Even though I put a new R/R on when the first one died & I tried two other used ones that checked OK with other stators that also didn't last, they were all OEM type.  Going with the beefed up R/R from RMStator and I'll try one of their stators for now as well.

What year & cc Shadow should I be looking for?  Thinking I'll go pick up a couple, just to have them on hand.

Just discovered an outfit in Denver that rewinds motorcycle stators.  Think I'll send a couple of my burned out hulks to them & see what they can do as well.

Also definitely swapping the flywheel this time.  Just curious if it is something with an odd harmonic vibration or the magnets themselves.

If I can get it up to 5 or 6 thousand miles between stators, I'll be a happy camper.  Not elated, but happy.  10,000 miles will make me elated.

Anyone want a stator gremlin?   ;D

H₂O

[inanecathode]

It's probably vibration. Theres no way you could have that many bad stators in a row.

[h2olawyer]

I'm sure it's not a quality control problem at this point.  Could be 3 bad R/Rs - one was the original on the bike, one was new from Dennis Kirk (a Rick's that ended up being the same as OEM) and the other was a used OEM unit.  They all checked out within specs.  The original one from the bike is definitely shot.  Don't know what happened to it, but I tried it when I changed stators last time & I got charging power that pegged my volt gauge.  Was working fine when it was removed after the first stator fried.  Just been sitting in a box since then.  It's now in the local landfill.

H₂O

[QBS]

For the sake of data aquisition, before you install your new flywheel, see if you can find a machine shop, engine balancing service, or similar facility that can evaluate each flywheel for balance.  It could be very revealing to know what, if any, differences there are betweeen them.

[h2olawyer]

I'll see what I can find out RE: balance.  However, I may be doing the operation tomorrow (Saturday) and most machine shops won't be open.  I can always compare the one from parts bike with the one I take off at a later date, though.

H₂O

[ironb12s]

A note about BikeBandit, I've found that they are usually higher than the dealers on cost, and possibly availability.  I'd suggest getting a price from the Bandit, and going to the Parts counter armed with it.  When they highball you there, mention the BBandit price, and they'll usually beat it.  Then, there's no shipping involved, and you don't have to wait if it is in stock.   ;D

[h2olawyer]

With the American Motorcyclist discount, Bike Bandit has reasonable prices.  Still often cheaper to go thru the dealer because of shipping & handling charges.

H₂O

[ironb12s]

Hmm, never slipped me no discount, did the Bandit.   ???

About this Electro-whatsits?  Is that Electrosport or Electrex we're kvetchin' about?  Electrex is the saviour to all things GS in the Suzuki line.  The OEM electrics were worse than Lucas for a spell.

[h2olawyer]

Speaking of Lucas - a friend of mine had a Lotus Europa for a few years.   ::)

Use your AMA # when you order from Bike Bandit (if ever) and you get a pretty good discount - something like 10 - 20%.  might make it worthwhile on higher ticket items.

Electrex Worldwide is still a good product.  Electrosport (US) has changed in the last couple years.  They were Electrex as well.  The last stator I got from them was wound in China & looked like it.  Very shoddy workmanship.  Probably lead contaminated as well.   ::)

I'm trying something different this time.  Won't say much until I've got it all installed & operational again.  Have been trying to decide exactly what to do, but now have a plan.

H₂O

[jasonm.]

I guess I have everyone beat. I have over 27k on my original stator. WOW! you say. Well,I have only done  a few significant things to the bike to help this. Adjusted the thermostat to a cooler 165* opening and I don't fart around town. I also soldered the stator wires years ago. But NOW I have relocated the connections to under the seal away from the battery breather. A year ago I did relocate the R/R to a more air flow area under my seat near the helmet lock. Also, just a month or so ago. Put a relay in to have the brown regulator sense wire read the true voltage at the battery. Now the voltage reads 14.25 while zooming . Instead of the 14.8+. This helps keep the battery from boiling the fluid out. This eliminates the resistance induced false reading of the sense wire that is caused by all the connectors including the ignition switch. YES, the ignition switch has resistance. ;D  Also, don't waste your time on electrical parts from Bike Bandit. They sell cheap Chinese Electrosport crap. Plus Bike Bandit has NO PHONE # when things go wrong. Lastly,  H2O if you are burning up stators this fast. You are not finding the cause, it will happen again. :'(

[h2olawyer]

H2O if you are burning up stators this fast. You are not finding the cause, it will happen again. :'(

No kidding.   ::)

The thermostat has been turned down only a short time.  Only about 300 miles.  The last stator may have suffered because of it.  Also going with a new R/R (again).  Still thinking I've got a harmonic vibration that these stators hate, so the flywheel is getting swapped as well.  That will make for an entire charging system change.

Remaining wiring harness has never been spliced into at any point & never used a scotchlock either.  All connections have been cleaned at least twice in the last three years.  Have tried 3 different (OEM type) R/Rs - all checked out fine, but when I tried one of the previous ones this time, the regulator circuit was shot - it pegged my volt gauge.

Have been running with the R/R ground wire soldered, but using all remaining connectors.  Hate trying to test the system with everything soldered.  Two of the stators fried with soldered connections anyway.

The new R/R is not stock.  Hope RMStator Inc. makes good ones.  The parts will be here by this weekend.

H₂O

[h2olawyer]

After pondering the latest fix, I finally decided to order the stator & R/R from RMStator, Inc.  Competitive pricing & if you look for the deals, cheap shipping - unless you do what I did & go for expedited 1 or 3 day shipping.  Still, the shipping was reasonable enough for me to get it here fast.  Some confusion about 1 or 3 day, but I'll take either one at this point.  I'm missing the best riding weather of the year & I want to ride!

Decided to try a beefier R/R but didn't want to go used.  Also wanted a new stator so I know its history.  Installation will include flywheel swap, extra 12 gauge wire from R/R to battery negative, silver soldered connections and maybe relocation of R/R to rear footpeg mount.

I don't have any battery breather with the sealed, maintenance free battery so I don't think I'll worry about the location of the connections.  The bike lives on a Battery Tender Jr. whenever it's not being ridden so the battery is always fully charged.

Hopefully this complete change of charging system will give me longer stator life!  I can't imagine 27K miles - I'd be thrilled with 5K at this point!

H₂O

[ironb12s]

I know that my Vision has more than 25K on it, and I believe the PO never had stator&R/R issues.  Truth is, it was probably never run the way that y'all run yours.  I must admit, the longest trip I took Viky on was about 300 miles one way.  Mostly it was run around trips locally and commuting.

BTW, I stand corrected on the tank lining, it was on that ~600 mile trip with her that I learned about the rusty corner syndrome.  I'd stopped to visit a colleague and her family in NY (upstate) and her husband was more of a motonut than I was at the time.  He'd had a friend with a leaky tank on a Vision, so he knew all about the problem, and it was his advice to line the tank with Kreem, which I did upon returning home.  I guess it was so new then that it hadn't exhibited the behavior that plagues y'all now...   ???

[Lucky]

I have been seriously considering twist-loc (is that what they are called?) connectors or soldered eye terminals soldered together (a-la-curcit board) instead of direct soldering to ease testing...

[h2olawyer]

I've tried posi-loc connectors.  Easy to use, not sure of conductive quality.  Guess I'll check them with the ohm meter.

H₂O

[Lucky]

The more i think of eye terminals (or flat blades, etc,) the more i like the idea:
easy to solder, large contact area, very easy to desolder & resolder..

[inanecathode]

Might be a silly idea, but have you thought of gluing a weight to the stator to act as mass dampening incase its a harmonic vibration problem?