Kreem

[ironb12s]

Dunno, butt I would think definitely YES.  :)

[Lucky]

I just dumped the Kreem/acitone mix out of the tank (now i have a rubbermaid container of acitone, rusty Kreem & water 3/4 full what do i do with that?)

does anyone know if i use the muriatic acid (next step) cut with water or straight?  if cut, how much?  how long do i let it soak, & what the heck do i with THAT afterwards??

I asked Reckon, but he hasn't gotten back to me..

Thanks, --Lucky

[h2olawyer]

Dunno if your landfills are like the one here.  They have a place to take hazardous chemicals.  No charge - because they want it to be used, keeping the crap out of the sewers & not poured onto the ground.  Sure comes in handy.  The one here has no place to pour anything (except used oil) so you need to put the stuff into containers you can leave behind, never to be seen again.  Check your county's website (if they've joined the 21st century  ;) ) or give them a call.

H₂O

[ironb12s]

Where'd ya get the MUR from, was it in a kit?  Should tell you on the box it came in if so.  If not, anyone?  My only experience is with PHO.

Oh, is the tank completely clear of Kreem now?

[Lucky]

1) i'm an idiot.

2) acitone is lighter than water.

3) acitone & water will flash fire if a lighter is put to a tub of it.

4) i can run & jump over stuff in a messy shop for the fire extinguisher faster than i thought i could.

5) i'm an idiot...  ;D ;D ;D

--Lucky

[h2olawyer]

At least your shop is metal!

I thought you quit smoking . . .

H₂O

[Lucky]

Since i'm impatient & lazy, i've had the tank sitting & occasionaly sloshed with 2 gallons of acitone & chain for about 24 hours.  positioning the tank in different positions every few hours (or overnight, between work)

what finally came out was hardened chunks of intermixed rust & Kreem (probably hardened from the cold garden hose water)

what is left are pencil point sized dots of Kreem all inside the tank.  

I rinsed the crap out of the tank with the hose & i can still hear a tiny amount of stuff rolling around (really small, i'm not concerned with it)

right now it's sitting with a small portable vac blowing into it.  my BIG shop vac doesn't blow, only suck, oh well...

I believe what Kreem is left will come out with the muriatic acid rinse, because i'm sure it's just sticking to rust. plus the acid will probably eat the Kreem dots too.

I do have some pin holes, as i expected, but i'm sure they will grow after the acid wash.  i have a fresh tube of epoxy putty ready.

all the acid says is something like 'dispose of in accordance with local laws'

phosphoric acid rinse will come after the muriatic acid rins, flushing, drying & epoxying of the holes

H₂O, no i din't quit smoking  :(  & i did this outside due to fumes.  my shop is such a mess i couldn't work in there (it's embarresing & i have to get it cleaned up)

--Lucky

[QBS]

Regarding the inquiery about removing the sender unit from an '83 tank before applying POR or similar coatings:  Answer...Not only yes, but Hell Yes!

[ironb12s]

Regarding the inquiery about removing the sender unit from an '83 tank before applying POR or similar coatings:  Answer...Not only yes, but Hell Yes!

Should've been removed with the petcock, no?  Don't want it in for the acetone soak, or the acid wash either.

[Night Vision]

Regarding the inquiery about removing the sender unit from an '83 tank before applying POR or similar coatings:  Answer...Not only yes, but Hell Yes!

thanks QBS, did you also remove the sender before adding and doing all the Por-15 cleaning chemicals and what not? Obviously, I wouldn't want to send the sender on an acid trip, but the Por chemicals are not so harsh...

I'm just thinking ahead on the next project and didn't mean to hijack the thread... sorry

and now back to the show....

3) acitone & water will flash fire if a lighter is put to a tub of it.

4) i can run & jump over stuff in a messy shop for the fire extinguisher faster than i thought i could.

I assume you'll update the website with pics  :D

does anyone know if i use the muriatic acid (next step) cut with water or straight?  if cut, how much?  how long do i let it soak

I used a 10:1 ratio for a muriatic acid bath for the project bike's frame... in other words... sloooowly add 0.5 gallons of acid to 5 gallons of water.... let soak for 12 hours max... rinse with plently of water.... you can mix baking soda with water to neutralize the acid too.

I just dumped the Kreem/acitone mix out of the tank (now i have a rubbermaid container of acitone, rusty Kreem & water 3/4 full what do i do with that?)

.....muriatic acid....what the heck do i with THAT afterwards??

I think you answered your own question on how to dispose of the acetone concoction......
fire it up!  ;D

add more baking to to the acid batch, dilute with more water and dispose into your municipal sanitary sewer system.... just tell yourself "it's only pool cleaner" and repeatly chant the following phrase:

"The solution to pollution is dillution" 

hope this helps   ;)

[Lucky]

Remove the sender!  reason:

the sender is a rheostat, basicly a thin long wire wound around non-conductive material (bakelite, waxed cardboard, etc) . there is a tin cover over the rheostat & that's it.

if you don't remove the sender you'll coat the whole thing with POR. when it hardens & you go to free-up the arm, you'll rip the wiring apart.

i think i used the cover from a butter tub to make a block off plate for the sender, petcock, etc.  install alll the bolts. remove & install the bolts several times over the several days while the POR is drying to keep the threads clean & avoid pulling up the edges at the bolt holes.

--Lucky

[ironb12s]

Just put grease on the bolts before you run them in, it'll keep the liner from sticking.  The metal must be devoid of any chemicals in order to adhere properly, so that'll be your safeguard.  Heck, you can cast J-B around a bolt that is thru a half broken fitting, and roll the bolt back out when it's cured, so...   

[QBS]

NV: Remove the sending unit before you do any of the POR process.  Block off the sender opening anyway you can so that it doesn't leak.  Somehow keep POR out of the sender attachement screw holes....And...also keep POR out of the fuel pitcock attachement screw holes.  I just screwed the attachement screws back into their holes to the point that the end of the screw was just flush with the inside surface of the tank, with no screw threads protruding.

[Night Vision]

ok, will do.... thanks

[ironb12s]

Okay, we never answered the burning question fully...

Ok, to better understand, did the Vision tank come lined from the factory when they were first made or is all this lining stuff a practice for older leaking tanks.

I never knew that anybody even added stuff to line the inside of their tanks.

When I get my two visions in a week or so, how do I check to see if it has a liner and what that liner might be? I am reading a lot about people wanting to get the Kreeme out so are they planning to re-line with something else. If a tanks is sound (welds and thickness) why put junk in the tank in the first place?

OEM lining of tanks is a very new development, and is inconsistent across the industry.

Gunny, the Vision's tank has those 2 dips toward the rear on both sides.  You do know that water is heavier that fuel, so it pools in those 'pockets' and the tank rusts thru at those points before anywhere else in the tank.  Take a look at the pics Tiffanator posted in her 'Tank Warfare' thread: http://ridersofvision.net/forum/zindex.php?topic=7296.0
showing where her rust was pravalent it will become clear; she's a good read, too.    :)   The only way to counter this design 'attribute' of the tank is to employ religious and frequent use of line drier in the fuel, or line the rust will a rust-proof material.

I hope this explains it more completely, why the ROV's have tank linings in focus.

[h2olawyer]

Since I've seen my tank more recently than Ironb12, let me correct his comment:

The Vision tank has 4 low spots - two in the front, two toward the rear.  All 4 are susceptible to rust.  Proper storage will keep these tanks from rusting, but for us lazy folks, a liner is the real solution.

H₂O

[jasonm.]

The problem with Kreem is 2 fold. 1) many don't have the patience to use it properly.Like geting all foreign bits out before pouring in the Kreem. (2) It does no last for ever and even shorter if you the directions were not followed. I Kreemed mine 10+ years ago. It's good for now. I know it won't last forever. I did find some tiny bits and pieces no bigger than this "o" in the deep corners of the tank I sucked out w/ Mighty Vac. But this was less than a tablespoon amount of bits. That was 4 years ago. I suspect it's 'cause of my jamming the fuel filler into the tank. But it has not visibly flaked off at all...yet.  Yes, I have a good fuel filter. In fact it is a car filter. Next time I will use something different to seal the tank.