Yikes the YICS and flapper door

[Lou]

Hi
Followed a hint (a la Lucky) to stick some weight on the flapper door to try and eradicate the stumble. This caused an eneven cruising speed at 5000rpm and even a bigger stumble. Took the flapper door out today and 95% of the problems were gone. Problem -  too much weight on the flapper door caused it to fall closed at cruising speeds and caused the above problem.
Question: Can someone please try to explain or show me through a diagram EXACTLY were to relocate the RR to? I know its "behind the rear footpeg" etc. but where? Inside the wheelarch? And onto what? The black plastic cover? What about water and dirt and mud??
Thanx

[Superfly]

Where is this flapper door that you speak of?

[Lou]

Inside the airbox behind the filter.

[Superfly]

Is it being questioned to take the door off?

[GA_Wolf]

For your R/R. I relocated mine to the mount for the left passenger foot peg.  I used a large t-brace from Home depot, drilled and trimmed it to fit the holes and to look nice and painted it black.  The rear peg goes thru the aluminum mount, then thru the base of the t-brace and then secured with the nut and washers.  I bent it back slightly to give my Pillion rider a little more foot clearance but it is till well out of the way of the swingarm and tire.

See the pics on my site.
http://www.geocities.com/all_wolf/index7.html

[Lucky]

And to clarify. gluing nickles on the flapper door is not my idea, i think it's a poor band-aid fix.

this trick only works on the early spring loaded flapper doors, not the vacuume operated ones most of us have.

the R/R is encased in epoxy, weather will not hurt it.

[Lou]

Keep your pants on, mate. ;) ;D But now that I've got your attention - my V still does not run at a constant speed at 5 - 7k revs especially in 4th and 5th.  Accelaration is fine and so are lower gear speeds, it also fires up very easy but the moment I try and keep it steady on the open road there is a hesitation and if I open the throttle a little more there is a negative response - almost as if it floods. I have to close the throttle to the speed I'm going and the only slow increase in speed occur when I then open it up VERY slowly.
Lou

[wolfman]

Until numerous battles with my carbs, my V would actually slightly accelerate when I backed off the throttle at freeway speeds...never did figure out why exactly but it does not do it now..

[Lou]

Got it sorted out!!!!!!!!!!! I built an airfilter (as per website instructions) and it choked the V. Replaced it today and she breaths freely and runs like the wind at all speeds and revs :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
Now only that stumble.......................................

[Glyn Pickering]

Took my XZ out for it's second run in about 5 years today. After starting nicely all was well for the first couple of miles.
The stumble / hestation slowly got worse and she stalled at a junction. Eventually afer loads of cranking on the starter  I managed to  push start in second gear. Would not tick over cleanly and I limped home.

I think it's connected to that bl---y triangular plastic box and all the associated pipework. I've cleaned the carb squaeky clean twice now. Can't the whole lot be done away with? - like on any other v twin - like a Honda Hawk? Has anyone disconnected the whole lot? and what are the results?

Any one ever put a 650 Honda Hawk carb on? or similar. surely would seem like a good project?

It's a great bike - so far, I've only that carb could be sorted.

On the R/R side. I actually made up a s/steel plate, oversized two top holes and put in rubber grommets to help take some the vibes away. At the bottom drilled two holes, one for the left footpeg, second 8mm. I have drilled an 8mm hole througth the alloy footpeg bracket to also secure the plate. I rubber mounted the whole plate here also by two rubber washers.
Extended wires as stated elsewhere nd used a small diam bicycle rubber tube to protect and waterproof the whole wire run.

Cheers

Glyn

[ArrrGeee]

Hi Glyn,
 clean or not, it sounds like you still have Carb problems.
 double check your float settings\ float valves, if it is too high or leaking , you will get flooding like conditions once it gets hot as you described.  make sure you have an inline filter on the bike !
 
The carbs are fine, they are a very simple downdraft design.
once they are set up and clean, they work perfectly for years.
I haven't touched my carbs in 3 or 4 years. ( I probably just jinxed them now  LOL )

-Ron

[Lucky]

And i'm wondering about how you describe the YICS as "all the associated pipework"...
Unless someone has modified your system, it's simply one hose from each head to the box, nothing else.  it's an incredibly simple system.

[Glyn Pickering]

Thanks for that advice. Tested both the YICS I have, inc the one on the bike. All leaked badly. I think fixing an old brittle badly designed  plastic box is just a waste of time. The thing will leak again - eventually. Really want to fabricate a good strong version out of metal. (see sep post). Hopefully the leaking YICS was the main problem at the w/e. I checked float levels etc when I cleaned the carbs they were fine. Appreciate comments on YICS design on other posts.

Cheers

Glyn.

[Sable]

Glyn,
     When I fixed my YICS, no matter how hard I tried, I always ended up with an external leak. I guess the red silicone that I was using was not the best quality... I just kept adding silicone around the seam until I didn't get any bubbles in the water test. By itself, it looks like hell, but with the chrome cover on it, you can't see it. My Vision starts and sounds a hullova lot better than when I capped off the hoses. Best of luck with your design.

   ~Sable

[h2olawyer]

Glyn & Sable-

If your YICS box is brittle, there is definitely something wrong! ?The plastic is very thick & fairly soft. ?When I fixed mine, I tried the "whack it open" method but was scared of breaking it. ?Used a band saw to cut it down the seam. ?After I got it apart, I saw that the hammer method would not likely break it like I feared. ?I then stuck some sandpaper to a sheet of glass and sanded both sides down until a straight edge showed they were flat. ?Started out with a medium grit (about 100) & finished with fine grit (300) paper. ?Also, used spray adhesive to stick it to the glass. ?

I was very careful when I cut the gasket & made sure to have the gasket bracing in the center of the long sides - like shown in Lucky's diagram. ?Then used aviation form a gasket to finish the seal. ?It only took a small amount of the form a gasket - just enough to coat the gasket & 'glue' it to the two sides of the YICS chamber. ?After 1200 miles, no leaks or signs of coming apart. ?Very clean - hard to even see the repair - just a small black line in the seam.

If it leaks again, it will be simple to fix - just cut a new gasket & stick it back together.

H2O

[Sable]

H2O,

     I went through three gaskets, made like you said. I used the red silicone adhesive as suggested on Lucky's site. I don't know what happened, I just had air leaking through the sides (i.e. failed the external leak test, but passed the internal leak test). I tried two more times with a new gasket and got fed up. So, the final time,  I just made a mental note as to where the spots were that was leaking air and just covered those areas with more silicone and let it sit another day. It is sealed.
     I don't have a band saw and I did not want to try the hammer method, so I used a razor blade and cut it along the seam, also sanded it down smooth, cut out the gasket and  re-sealed it. Mine just looks like hell because of there is red silicone smeared over the seam. This is not visible with the cover on. I just wanted to point out to Glyn that there is still hope with the YICS even though he is having trouble with it ;D

     ~Sable

[h2olawyer]

Sable -

I didn't mean to insult your methods and apologize for the insinuation that you did it wrong.  I wanted to make sure it was done right the first time so I spent a lot of time with the straight edge making sure the sides were flat & true.

I only wanted to show Glyn that some of us have had success with the repair without any problems.  The chrome cover is indeed a wonderful cover for the repair.  It is also necessary as it helps seal the chamber - two of the holes for the screws require gaskets or other sealer to make them leakproof.

One more minor thing - those screw seals are often overlooked as leak points.  Mine still has the original seals and they are working fine for now but I may make some replacements as they were not looking too great when I did the repair last year.

H2O

[Sable]

H2O,

     No, no, no, no.... I just thought you misinterpreted what I said ( this happens a lot between cops and lawyers ;) )... I don't mind that mine looks like hell, I was just saying that if it's sealed, what does it matter how it looks, unless you plan on putting it in a show. Especially having the chrome cover to hide my handiwork ;D

     ~Sable

[h2olawyer]

Sable -

I see - didn't think I was being a jerk but wanted to be sure!  Many lawyers can come off as such but I DON'T LITIGATE!  ;D  Those seem to be the worst of them - litigators & defense attorneys will be the end of civilization as we know it.

You're absolutely right - function rules over form.  It's just that mine has a little over 7,000 miles and looks nearly brand new.  It is very clean & original.  I'm trying to keep it that way, so I tend to be a little more fastidious on some of the repairs than I need to be.

I've done quite a bit of wrench turning with an A&P certified mechanic so doing things the hard way is kind of normal anymore.  I tend to get things very clean during the removal & teardown before I start work on them.  It takes lots of Brake cleaner but the end results are worth it for me.  Besides, I can do most any repair on my bike & not get very dirty.  With all the maintenance these old bikes require, that is a real blessing.

Glad you're not mad at me!  :D

H2O

[Lucky]

Now i'm going to piss both of you off.. ;D

last time I redid my YICS, it was actually the one from the parts bike, and I opened it with Jasons hammer method. When done this way you end up with a groove on one side, and a ridge that fits into it on the other. I sealed it with Yamabond (no gaskett) clamped it overnight & wha-La! all set.

I have a few pages to change on my site that have improved procedures...